Spark Plug Removal.....HELP!!!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 4
From: USA
Spark Plug Removal.....HELP!!!
I think I'm big trouble
I bought some NGK 55's and tried to get off the #1 and #4 on the passengers side. I tried with all my might(or at least with whatever leverage I could get) and didn't budge at all.
I haven't removed spark plugs since my college days but don't remember it being this difficult. Tried with engine cold. I've read here before to use some sort of "anti-seige" but can't even see where the threads are for the spark plug
All those with spark plug knowledge please chime in.
Thanks
I bought some NGK 55's and tried to get off the #1 and #4 on the passengers side. I tried with all my might(or at least with whatever leverage I could get) and didn't budge at all. I haven't removed spark plugs since my college days but don't remember it being this difficult. Tried with engine cold. I've read here before to use some sort of "anti-seige" but can't even see where the threads are for the spark plug
All those with spark plug knowledge please chime in.Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,995
Likes: 61
From: Fort Wayne IN
You're right trying to remove them on a cold motor.... Remember - lefty loosy and righty tighty. Having said that, I know there's not a lot of room to work but you might try some WD40 or penatrating oil, wait a few hours they have at them again. $.02
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 4
From: USA
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 4
From: USA
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 412
Likes: 1
From: CT
As for getting the old ones out, try some penetrating oil as the others have recommended. WD40 is not the best choice, but PB Blaster or something similar would be fine.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 4
From: USA
I think you mean to say "anti-seize". You can get it at the autoparts store where you bought the plugs. You should apply that to the threads of the new plugs, before you install them. You only need a very small dab on the threads - keep it off the electrode.
As for getting the old ones out, try some penetrating oil as the others have recommended. WD40 is not the best choice, but PB Blaster or something similar would be fine.
As for getting the old ones out, try some penetrating oil as the others have recommended. WD40 is not the best choice, but PB Blaster or something similar would be fine.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
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From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
It's a pretty common problem with platunum plugs--people don't change them for 100k miles and they seize onto the head--It's a good idea to still remove and inspect the platinums once a year regaurdless and apply anti-seize so it won't happen again---
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 651
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From: Littleton NC
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 7,370
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From: Slave to the evil empire
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04
Platinum plugs have nothing to do with this, the only platinum on the plug is a microscopic chip on the electrode.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 4
From: Flower Mound TX.
I too just had this problem last week when I did mine at 60,000. It was a $%$!*& to get them off. I had to use a cheater bar also. I also used a socket wrench that could split in 2 places. I used a pipe over the wrench, but did not have much room to work with on the drivers side of the engine so I could only turn the wrench a little at a time. Sears sells a cheater bar that's 16 to 18 in. that can be used in place of the wrench to at least break them loose, then go back to the wrench to finish getting them out. Just make shure you don't force the new plugs back in. If there not in the threads just right you could strip the threads. I use a rubber fuel or vacuum tubeing hose to fit just on the tip of the plug and use that to set the plugs in place. Make shure you have a tight fit on the plugs with the tubeing and just give it some turns with the tubeing untill they set, then just pull the tubeing off and finish with the wrench. Good luck !
in2fun
in2fun
Last edited by in2fun; Feb 27, 2007 at 09:55 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 25,889
Likes: 7
From: Virginia Beach
CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
Platinum plugs are supposed to be good for 100k so people leave them in way too long. I just helped my buddy Vinny change the plugs on his "new" '99 FRC w/ 55k that had factory everything.
The plug wires were mostly fused on and had to break 2 of them to even get them off. The plugs broke loose w/ an audible "click" as they were pretty well fused into the heads.
Had to get a cheater bart to slip over the rachet a few times for more leverage.
When re-installing dab some anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. I've always done this and have no issues changing plugs every 20k or so. I use NGK TR-55s.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 1
From: Kingsport TN
I had to do this too. A couple of those plugs are very difficult to access. I ended up using two hinge adaptors to even be able to get a socket wrench to work. I've heard from someone that ?Sears or some other place sells a specific spark plug socket w/ hinged adaptor already attached to make this easier. Anyone know of this or where to get it/pricing? Apparently, other vetters said it made the job a whole lot easier.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 25,889
Likes: 7
From: Virginia Beach
CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
^ I have no more AIR sytem so it's not an issue for me... but on cars that still have AIR it helps to unbolt the fitting from the manifold or header and move it up out of the way. Also, disconnect tha vaccum line from the brake booster and move it out of the way.