Spark Plug Removal.....HELP!!!
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Here's an earlier post re changing spark plugs - the key is using a wrench with a longer handle for more leverage & taking your time. Once you have the longer wrench, slowly apply leverage and they come loose easily - make sure the socket is completely seated on the plug before trying to loosen.
I recently did mine for the first time and will pass on what I learned from experience. I hope this helps.
Parts
I used AC Delco Iridiums #91-485 $55.
I used a set of stock replacement Autolite wires for $35.
(I bought both at Advanced Auto).
Anti seize compound to put on the threads of the new plugs
Dielectric grease
Tools
5/8" Craftsman swivel socket
3 inch extension, 6 inch extension, 10 inch extension depending on location
1/2" drive Craftsman pivoting head socket wrench (21" handle) with 1/2" to 3/8" adapter
3" long piece of vacuum hose that slips over the plug insulator so you can start the threads in by hand
Mechanic gloves so you don't destroy fingers, hands, and knuckles
Helpful Hints
Change the plugs when the engine is COLD.
The rear plug on the drivers side (#7) is the hardest so get the feel of some of the easier ones before you go there.
The hardest part for me was getting the old wires off. Make sure you grab the end of the boot and yank really hard - don't worry if you destroy a wire because you have a new set.
The long handled pivoting head ratchet made the job a breeze because it gives you great control and leverage to break the plugs free & the extensions keep your hands well above the tight spots. I tried with a smaller ratchet but wasted about an hour and got frustrated as well.
Put a light coat of anti seize on the threads of the new plugs and start them in by hand as tight as you can get.
Put the socket wrench on, snug then go 1/16 of a turn.
Put some dielectric grease in both the coil end and the spark plug end of the wire and snap them on.
The total job took me 2 hours and I was taking my time.
I recently did mine for the first time and will pass on what I learned from experience. I hope this helps.
Parts
I used AC Delco Iridiums #91-485 $55.
I used a set of stock replacement Autolite wires for $35.
(I bought both at Advanced Auto).
Anti seize compound to put on the threads of the new plugs
Dielectric grease
Tools
5/8" Craftsman swivel socket
3 inch extension, 6 inch extension, 10 inch extension depending on location
1/2" drive Craftsman pivoting head socket wrench (21" handle) with 1/2" to 3/8" adapter
3" long piece of vacuum hose that slips over the plug insulator so you can start the threads in by hand
Mechanic gloves so you don't destroy fingers, hands, and knuckles
Helpful Hints
Change the plugs when the engine is COLD.
The rear plug on the drivers side (#7) is the hardest so get the feel of some of the easier ones before you go there.
The hardest part for me was getting the old wires off. Make sure you grab the end of the boot and yank really hard - don't worry if you destroy a wire because you have a new set.
The long handled pivoting head ratchet made the job a breeze because it gives you great control and leverage to break the plugs free & the extensions keep your hands well above the tight spots. I tried with a smaller ratchet but wasted about an hour and got frustrated as well.
Put a light coat of anti seize on the threads of the new plugs and start them in by hand as tight as you can get.
Put the socket wrench on, snug then go 1/16 of a turn.
Put some dielectric grease in both the coil end and the spark plug end of the wire and snap them on.
The total job took me 2 hours and I was taking my time.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park KS
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 4
From: USA
Thanks to all you guys for all your input on this issue. Here is where I am now: I didn't have anything last night but WD40 to help loosen them up for this morning. Even with that I couldn't get the leverage I needed so I used an old piece of electrical PCP pipe and managed to finally get the 4 passengers side ones off
Not sure how I'm going to tackle the drivers side with all the crap that is in the way but maybe someone has some keen ideas
Does anyone know by these pics whether these are the original spark plugs? Just curious
Not sure how I'm going to tackle the drivers side with all the crap that is in the way but maybe someone has some keen ideas
Does anyone know by these pics whether these are the original spark plugs? Just curious
Last edited by BATM4N; Feb 27, 2007 at 02:04 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 9,910
Likes: 1,859
From: Hot Springs AR
Changing out the plugs twice before on mine has led me to re-learn the old adage of taking some time to remove things to give yourself more room to work ends up being the fastest way to work.
Up front: you don't HAVE to do this to change out the plugs. But, I've found it makes the job much easier.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal
2. Pull the alternator (the reason for step #1)
3. Remove the coil packs
Now, pull the wires and AIR tube on the drivers side. You'll find the plugs much easier to get to, which gives you more leverage, etc....
My experience has been the up front work is no more than about 10 minutes (and of course 10 minutes putting stuff back together).
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Up front: you don't HAVE to do this to change out the plugs. But, I've found it makes the job much easier.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal
2. Pull the alternator (the reason for step #1)
3. Remove the coil packs
Now, pull the wires and AIR tube on the drivers side. You'll find the plugs much easier to get to, which gives you more leverage, etc....
My experience has been the up front work is no more than about 10 minutes (and of course 10 minutes putting stuff back together).
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
I'd also like to add one more thing to all the good advice here:
Blast the sand and crud out and away from the plugs before you pull them out. That sand and "stuff" will find its way into the combustion chamber, so blast the stuff away from those plugs using compressed air or vacuum. My opinion is that yes, it is good to remove the OEM plugs before 100K miles, but once you apply anti-seize, you shouldn't have to remove your plugs every year. I've had greased plugs in an aluminum head for 8 years and they came out without any problem. Remember, the more often you remove plugs, the more likely sand and crud is going to get into the chamber.
Blast the sand and crud out and away from the plugs before you pull them out. That sand and "stuff" will find its way into the combustion chamber, so blast the stuff away from those plugs using compressed air or vacuum. My opinion is that yes, it is good to remove the OEM plugs before 100K miles, but once you apply anti-seize, you shouldn't have to remove your plugs every year. I've had greased plugs in an aluminum head for 8 years and they came out without any problem. Remember, the more often you remove plugs, the more likely sand and crud is going to get into the chamber.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 4
From: USA
I'd also like to add one more thing to all the good advice here:
Blast the sand and crud out and away from the plugs before you pull them out. That sand and "stuff" will find its way into the combustion chamber, so blast the stuff away from those plugs using compressed air or vacuum. My opinion is that yes, it is good to remove the OEM plugs before 100K miles, but once you apply anti-seize, you shouldn't have to remove your plugs every year. I've had greased plugs in an aluminum head for 8 years and they came out without any problem. Remember, the more often you remove plugs, the more likely sand and crud is going to get into the chamber.
Blast the sand and crud out and away from the plugs before you pull them out. That sand and "stuff" will find its way into the combustion chamber, so blast the stuff away from those plugs using compressed air or vacuum. My opinion is that yes, it is good to remove the OEM plugs before 100K miles, but once you apply anti-seize, you shouldn't have to remove your plugs every year. I've had greased plugs in an aluminum head for 8 years and they came out without any problem. Remember, the more often you remove plugs, the more likely sand and crud is going to get into the chamber.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 15
From: Jensen Beach FL
I'd also like to add one more thing to all the good advice here:
Blast the sand and crud out and away from the plugs before you pull them out. That sand and "stuff" will find its way into the combustion chamber, so blast the stuff away from those plugs using compressed air or vacuum. My opinion is that yes, it is good to remove the OEM plugs before 100K miles, but once you apply anti-seize, you shouldn't have to remove your plugs every year. I've had greased plugs in an aluminum head for 8 years and they came out without any problem. Remember, the more often you remove plugs, the more likely sand and crud is going to get into the chamber.
Blast the sand and crud out and away from the plugs before you pull them out. That sand and "stuff" will find its way into the combustion chamber, so blast the stuff away from those plugs using compressed air or vacuum. My opinion is that yes, it is good to remove the OEM plugs before 100K miles, but once you apply anti-seize, you shouldn't have to remove your plugs every year. I've had greased plugs in an aluminum head for 8 years and they came out without any problem. Remember, the more often you remove plugs, the more likely sand and crud is going to get into the chamber.
I told a friend of mine that I was going to take my plugs out and put anti seize on them and put them back (car only has 15K miles) and he asked why they don't put it on at the factory? I then wondered if they do or not? Good question in my opinion if they are saying 100K miles they should put anti seize on them when building the car. BTW I did take them out and put anti seize on them and they did not appear to have been done originally.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 4
From: USA
I have more tools than the average garage and never thought replacing spark plugs would be such a job. It is definitley a "right tool" type of job. I'll never attempt this again without them
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 825
Likes: 0
From: San Diego(Sabre Springs) Ca
I told a friend of mine that I was going to take my plugs out and put anti seize on them and put them back (car only has 15K miles) and he asked why they don't put it on at the factory? I then wondered if they do or not? Good question in my opinion if they are saying 100K miles they should put anti seize on them when building the car. BTW I did take them out and put anti seize on them and they did not appear to have been done originally.
YES, YES and YES! Put it on, save yourself headaches like this one.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 4
From: USA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 9,910
Likes: 1,859
From: Hot Springs AR
Probably an hour (not counting dealing with tight plugs) for the whole job. Stock manifolds.
Have a good one,
Mike
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,488
Likes: 4
From: USA
O.K. I'm a believer
I bought some PB Blaster for the drivers side and what a difference getting the drivers side off
Like night and day. Now for the dreaded last two closest to the firewall Wish me luck...I'm going to need it
I bought some PB Blaster for the drivers side and what a difference getting the drivers side off Like night and day. Now for the dreaded last two closest to the firewall Wish me luck...I'm going to need it
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 825
Likes: 0
From: San Diego(Sabre Springs) Ca
You don't need luck, just a little patience, you will get them.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 15
From: Jensen Beach FL
Heck without headers it takes 20 mins to just get the fricken boots off the plugs. Then if you do it right and put die electric grease in the boots and anti seize on the plug threads you have at least 50 minutes to do them and that's if all goes right.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 412
Likes: 1
From: CT