I agree Mike, thank you. That's why I probably should drive both setups if possible.

 

I Went From 3.15 To 3.73 With 3200 Stall Lost 8 Mpg Highway . Do Not Go With This Set Up If You Spend Alot Of Highway Time

 

just get a stall! done and done

 

Same here......... from 3.15 to 3.42, and am very happy. Stock stall here, don't wana deal with Tranny heating and temp problems...

 

Tranny will heat up, but nothing a well positioned/thought out cooler won't handle. My trans runs cooler now than when it was stock. Knocking on wood because it never goes over 180-190° even when it was 90-100° outside temps.

I vote for the 3.42's. I did them and don't regret it one bit.

 

I went from 2.73s to 3.90s with a 3200 stall. Averaging 18 mpg with 75% highway driving. IMO the best mod for the $ one can do. Like adding 100 horses without touching the engine. Don't forget a hardened output shaft when you make the change.

 

I had 3.15 and went with 3.73 & 3200 vig, the fun factor of the change is awsome. At 2500 rpm I am doing 72 mph and and mpg dropped approx. 4, but I did cam & ls2 heads at the same time. I have no trans cooler and have over 6000 miles since install with no problems, I did have a shift kit installed too. Hope this helps, the only negative side is your tires will not last long.

 

i put 3:90s and a 2800 stall I only lost 3 mpg at highway speeds . not a problem

 

Same setup here.

I am looking at doing a converter in the near future. It is my understanding that the converter will let the car hit its power band a lot quicker than a stock converter so when you mash the pedal you had better be pointing straight ahead and holding on.

 

Give me a call if you want. I have set up many different combinations and can give you some decent insight that might make your decision a bit easier

 

I installed 4.10's on my MN-6 and went from about 31.5 highway to 29. Installed 4.10s on my wife's A4 that had 3.15s and she went from about 28.5 to 26 highway. Never checked around town but would be surprised if there is any loss in mpg as you just end up driving in a higher gear. For performance, the MN6 was much quicker and the A4 went from quick to rocket ship! Highly suggest going all the way to 4.10s on a stock car. If you are going to make substantial power gains (supercharger, etc.) then maybe not all the way to 4.10s...

My 2 cents...

 

I really can't thank everyone enough for ALL the great info. Chris @ East Coast I'll be calling you soon. Thanks for the offer. From what I gather it's all a personal choice. To "each his own" as the saying goes. There are obviously issues with any set up. I just want to minimize the negative ones, and really enjoy driving the car. I don't drive it every day, mainly on the weekends when the whether permits. I mix highway(40%) with street(60%). I never knew a simple mod could be SOOOO confusing!!

 

Went from 10" continental converter to 8" continental with 4:89 gears, 440 tunnel ram mopar up front, 3000lb car, used it for back an forth to work and weekend warrior for years.

8" converter worked just like the 10" .. until you punched it.
10" converter would flash to 3700 rpm on launch (with 13x31" slicks on the back) .. 8" converter would flash to 4200 rpm.

60' times went down a bit over a tenth, 1/4 mile times went down 3+ tenths, mph actually went up 2mph thru the lites. All converter change, nothing else.

When I went to cruise nites .. could motor along at 35mph in 3rd, drop into 2nd and hammer it .. it was *just* like a manual tranny in that the motor would rev then hit *hard* (same as the rev an drop the clutch on manual car) ..people asked me all the time if I was runnin a 4-gear

Hi stall converter doesn't 'free-wheel' .. it's just like drivin stock converter till you apply traction + torque .. it won't 'lock up' as low as a stock converter will. It will 'flash' to its designed stall rpm .. varies due to torque and traction applied (had a friend with a 529 ci Rat, Mondello NASCAR heads, twin 1050 dominators, .700+ lift roller cam etc, ..would 'flash' his 10" converter to 5000 rpm .. but it was a monster motor with huge stickies in the back)

-Frank

 

Thanks Frank, I kind of understand what you are talking about with the analogy between the manual tranny and an auto car with the converter. Would that kind of "grab" on a stock auto tranny cause excessive wear and possible breakage problems? What I mean to say, is a stock '04 C5 auto tranny up to the extra torque added by the stall converter? Also, the very word itself, "stall" converter seems to imply that the tranny stalls for a few seconds when you hit the gas before locking up and launching the car. If thats true, then it's exactly what I DON'T want. I describe it as less than initial crispness when hitting the gas. I believe that that extra lag time before the car moves however small, would drive me crazy after a while, but that's just me.
Thanks you,
Rich

 

admin@edgeracingconverters.com

Ask to talk with Andre at Edge Racing. He will answer all of your questions as to torque converters. He talked me into the 2800 stall with the 3.73's after I described to him exactly how I wanted the car to drive and what mods I have. Talk with him about Torque converter sizes and speeds -- he is very knowledgable and friendly........

 

So what does it run in the 1/4??? Jeff