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So I've been doing some thinking, after seening the Throttle Body By-Pass on Ecklers...
Supposedly the Throttle Body By-Pass is good for like 3-5 RWHP. So does it connect the hose that goes to the top of the throttle body (and over to the valve cover) and the hose that comes from the radiator over to the lower portion of the throttle body?
I was thinking since it seems that the line that comes from the radiator is long enough, couldn't I just go direct from the valve cover to the radiator? Wouldn't it achieve the same thing?
Also, what are you supposed to do with the now open lines (two of them) on the throttle body?
Thanks for any and all suggestions. I was just doing some brainstorming and I'm always up for some more HP at a cheap cost...
i dont know how much it costs at ecklers but you can buy the same stuff at any auto parts store for about $5. and the two parts of the throttle body you just plug with a rubber cap.
i dont know how much it costs at ecklers but you can buy the same stuff at any auto parts store for about $5. and the two parts of the throttle body you just plug with a rubber cap.
That's what I'm saying... Can't I just go direct with the line from the radiator to the valve cover and then plug the throttle body at both locations?
For those that have this done, is there some improvement? Is it even worth doing? I know 5HP may not even be that noticable, but I'm trying to gauge whether or not to do it to my C5.
I don't think it is even worth messing with since you will not see any measurable increase in HP. Just leave it connected the way it was intended, and use your time doing something worthwhile.
Check out the FAST 90 installation tips thread. He did just what you are asking, connected a new hose from the radiator to the crossover pipe on the heads and eliminated the throttle body.
I considered using the standard brass double nipple and doing my own (the 90mm NW throttle body I am installing doesn't have the connections) but I am not sure how brass reacts in Dexcool and this may be why the kits use an aluminum connection nipple.
If your gonna do this dont waste your money on a bypass kit. Go to the auto parts store and get 3' of 5/16 fuel line and two small hose clamps. Here is a pic of how I ran mine.
Doing it this way also keeps the coolant line away from the water pump pulley, unlike the bypass kit which lets the line lay right on top of the pulley.
If your gonna do this dont waste your money on a bypass kit. Go to the auto parts store and get 3' of 5/16 fuel line and two small hose clamps. Here is a pic of how I ran mine.
Doing it this way also keeps the coolant line away from the water pump pulley, unlike the bypass kit which lets the line lay right on top of the pulley.
Thanks for the tips!
Quick question, on my car, the line runs from the passanger valve cover, over to the top of the throttle body. And then from the bottom of the throttle body over to the radiator...
Seems to me like yours is running towards the driver side valve cover or something... Could you elaborate on this? I just want to do it right, otherwise I won't do it at all...
Or did you run it over under the throttle body and fuel rail covers, to the passanger side valve cover just to eliminate going anywhere near the pulleys? Thanks for the help!
I believe there are as many opinions as there are people on this one.
If you live in a colder climate, it's wise to leave as is because the coolant helps keep the throttle body warm which helps cold start drivability.
Since I live in Fla, I bypassed mine since everything warms up so fast anyway. From what I've read, the thinking it that a cooler intake charge = more power. Just use some vacuum caps to plug the ports on the TB.
I really didn't notice any difference except that the TB is easier to remove now because I don't have to disconnect the hoses with coolant dribbling everywhere.
That mod add 00.000 hp and if you live in a warm climate will not adverserly affect your car, if you live where it gets cold and you drive your corvette, it will affect your pcm calibrations.
So I've been doing some thinking, after seening the Throttle Body By-Pass on Ecklers...
Supposedly the Throttle Body By-Pass is good for like 3-5 RWHP. So does it connect the hose that goes to the top of the throttle body (and over to the valve cover) and the hose that comes from the radiator over to the lower portion of the throttle body?
I was thinking since it seems that the line that comes from the radiator is long enough, couldn't I just go direct from the valve cover to the radiator? Wouldn't it achieve the same thing?
Also, what are you supposed to do with the now open lines (two of them) on the throttle body?
Thanks for any and all suggestions. I was just doing some brainstorming and I'm always up for some more HP at a cheap cost...
The hose that goes to the top of the throttle body is NOT the one for the bypass, they are both on the bottom of the throttle body! one comes from the radiator & the other one exits the driver`s side of throttle body to a splitter that then goes to each head.
The hose that goes to the top of the throttle body is NOT the one for the bypass, they are both on the bottom of the throttle body! one comes from the radiator & the other one exits the driver`s side of throttle body to a splitter that then goes to each head.
And the main reason to do a bypass is so that you don't have to mess with the coolant everytime you want to remove the throttle body or intake manifold. Use one long hose and you eliminate two place where it could leak.
And the main reason to do a bypass is so that you don't have to mess with the coolant everytime you want to remove the throttle body or intake manifold. Use one long hose and you eliminate two place where it could leak.
someone finally posted a good reason for doing this mod.
someone finally posted a good reason for doing this mod.
Someone can't read or see
Look 7 posts above yours
I also think that if your throttle is sticking in freezing weather you just didn't let the car warm up for a few minutes...no water should be in your TB to freeze
I believe there are as many
I really didn't notice any difference except that the TB is easier to remove now because I don't have to disconnect the hoses with coolant dribbling everywhere.
If you plan on pulling the TB more than once - Bypass it.
I also think that if your throttle is sticking in freezing weather you just didn't let the car warm up for a few minutes...no water should be in your TB to freeze