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OK So my crank pulley has backed out all the way up against the steering rack, the bolt is still there. My question is what do I need to check, as I see it Iam going to go in and replace the pulley with an underdrive piece, a new bolt and a new main seal, is there anything else that could be dmaged in there, just want to know what Ishould be expecting.
Too bad the car ran 12.47 on motor before the noise started and I checked it out. The serpintine belt is still attached but back about 1/2 inch on the pulley.
OK So my crank pulley has backed out all the way up against the steering rack, the bolt is still there. My question is what do I need to check, as I see it Iam going to go in and replace the pulley with an underdrive piece, a new bolt and a new main seal, is there anything else that could be dmaged in there, just want to know what Ishould be expecting.
Too bad the car ran 12.47 on motor before the noise started and I checked it out. The serpintine belt is still attached but back about 1/2 inch on the pulley.
I had this problem with my Camaro, the reason for it was the bolt was taken out and re used which should never be done. They are torque to yeild bolts and are only good once, otherwise they will back themselves out. I got myself a new ARP bolt and havent had another problem.
You can optionally replace the oil pump with a ported LS6 pump, and the timing chain with a hardened chain. Don't forget the timing cover gasket. When you put it back together, don't tighten the timing cover until you have torqued down the balancer. Then tighten the two screws on the bottom of the cover first. This is supposed to let the seal center on the crank shaft and prevent leaks. It worked for me.
I had this problem with my Camaro, the reason for it was the bolt was taken out and re used which should never be done. They are torque to yeild bolts and are only good once, otherwise they will back themselves out. I got myself a new ARP bolt and havent had another problem.
I have been thinking of a cam swap, how close will I be to the same amount of work once I get to the pulley, I am thinking timing chain cover, sprockets, and oil pump, is that correct?
I have been thinking of a cam swap, how close will I be to the same amount of work once I get to the pulley, I am thinking timing chain cover, sprockets, and oil pump, is that correct?
you are not that far out from doing a cam swap at the same time.
If you do the cam, don't make the mistake I did and expect the lifters to be held up by their plastic retainers. Buy some 5/16" (?) dowel and insert it into the oil channel that travels the length of the block under the lifters. The dowel needs to be snug so that it presses against the lifters and holds them in place.
If you do drop a lifter down into the crankcase, don't panic. You can get them out by removing the valley cover and using a magnet pen to fish them out. You can do this from the top of the engine without having to go through the oil pan as some posts suggest.
Of course, you can also do ported heads at the same time and just take the lifters out before you do the cam.
"locking" the pulley to the crank snout from a (slight) interference fit, and sheer bolt torque, is the dumbest thing I've ever heard of.
Pin it, most of the aftermarket UD's come with keyways that will allow for this. Fel-Pro makes a nice front end kit that will have all you need to to the front of the motor stuff.
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