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Intake Manifold Bolts

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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 01:28 PM
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Default Intake Manifold Bolts

After yanking the Intake manifold off 2 weekends in a row while trying to get to the bottom of Knock Sensor issue, my intake manifold bolts are not in great shape (IE Corners rounding).
Particularly the ones on the back.

Should these bolts be replaced with every intake manifold replacement?
They seem to be exceedingly soft and round off easily.

Does anyone have a source for these bolts and/or a GM part number that I can search for?
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 02:03 PM
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Are you sure that you are not overtigthening them? They only take 44 in-lbs first pass then 89 in-lbs final pass. This is IN-lbs, NOT FT-lbs.

Not very much torque, I needed to get a new torque wrench to go down this low. The intake manifold gasket is an o-ring and it doesn't take much to seal it.

I would try a dealer for bolts, probably will have to order them.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 03:22 PM
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Old vetter is right, the bolts can be ordered thru GM at $10 a bolt. I have re used mine over 5 times without problems.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 03:32 PM
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Sounds like the dealer to charge 10 bux a bolt Whenever i lose a bolt, or i need a new one, i just go to the hardware store and buy one. Since these are intake bolts, you don't need to get better then grade 5. You can find these usually in an allen head. That is what i am using right now. Work great.

There is ofcourse some bolts you should buy from the dealer, ie most internal engine bolts. But these will cost about a buck each at the hardware store for the intake.

Dom
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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i may have a few spares, how many you need?

Dave
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 04:51 PM
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Contact Gene Culley. I think ARP might also make a set, but am not sure on that one.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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Yes, I'm pretty sure I'm tightening them right.
5 Nm on the first pass then 10Nm on the second pass.
it's just the back two that that are getting all boogered up.
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 05:55 AM
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There isn't a straight shot at the back two, you probably need a crows foot with a corrected torque value or a new torque wrench that will fit. A 1/4" drive wrench may work depending on the wrench.
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 07:56 AM
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Get a set of those combo wrenches with the ratcheting box end.
works great in those tight areas
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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How do you measure the torque with those wrenches?
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
How do you measure the torque with those wrenches?
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
How do you measure the torque with those wrenches?
You don't, you torque by 'feel',,,,,,,,done it for years for bolts not accessable with usual torque wrench / socket assembly. You can really get pretty close by using the torque wrench on a fastner you can access and then putting the box end wrench on the torqued fastner to see how hard you have to pull to make it move. I wouldn't recommend using this method on anything like connecting rod or main bearing cap bolts, but probably OK for a couple of intake manifold bolts.
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 01:50 PM
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he's right, by the time you torque the front bolts, you should have a good feel for them. This is not a torque-to-yield application, as obiously the steel bolt is stronger than the plastic intake. Just snug them down similar to how you've done the other.

The other option is to drill a couple of holes down through the cowl. Makes it mucho easier.
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