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Anyone have any pics of the location of the AIR check valve or which hoses lead to it. I've read other posts on this subject but still can't pinpoint which ones they are. My check engine light is coming on every other time I drive the car it seems, so I am going to attempt to fix this problem myself.
its in back of the intake you can pull the intake or skin your finger and hands and work the whole tube and valve from pass side there are post how to do the search punch in 1416 code hope this helps its a little work but like someone said dont let it defeat you u can do it be gentel when pulling it out from pass side oh ya there is a bolt that holds the valve to the head on drivers side you have to loosen to pull the valve out as a assy . you can try spraying wd 40 in the hose on drivers side when cold and do this a few times it might cure it i ended up pulling mine out from pass side but i cut off the bracket once i got it out and it went back in like butter taking it out is another story you can do it without pulling the intake just takes a little time and swearing your favoret swear words have fun do the search have fun ski
I'm having the same issues as of yesterday. I believe I saw this code last season but it didn't come up consistently. Now it's like every other time just like you. I tried cleaing w/ carb and wd40 but my car was warm so I will try one more time to clean when cold. If it doesn't hold I will just put in new ones. Are they inexpensive?
I had this problem, replaced the check valve with ALOT of swearing. Who the hell put it back there anyway and why does that one fail and not the easily accessible one fail?? : Then the problem croped up again. I used PB Blaster and shot it into the line then used compressed air to force it thru (while cold). Let it sit a few hours and then turned on the car. It smoked blue like it was burning oil! hahaha, but that fixed my P1416 code.
I have a theory that because the check valve is in the back, it does not burn off moisture like the other one (above the driver manifold) does and then freezes. Some sort of penetrating lubricant should be able to un-freeze a mildly frozen one.
I guess I'll try spraying lube in the line to begin with.
Which line goes to the AIR check valve? I see two lines exiting near the throttlebody; one near the top and one near the bottom behind the throttle body. Is it one these lines? Sorry I'm new to emissions fixes.
I guess I'll try spraying lube in the line to begin with.
Which line goes to the AIR check valve? I see two lines exiting near the throttlebody; one near the top and one near the bottom behind the throttle body. Is it one these lines? Sorry I'm new to emissions fixes.
I was getting the p1416 code just about evey day, even multiple times a day, before I tried cleaning and lubing the check valve.
I sprayed carb cleaner in the large tube that runs across the top of the driver side wheelwell. Shot compressed air though it. Then sprayed wd40 in it and again hit it with compressed air. Ran it for a couple mins. when it was cold. Even unhooked the hose while the car was running to make sure there was vaccum. There was. Got the check engine light the next time I ran the car.
I repeated the process the next day. It has since been a week and still no P1416 code. I'm starting to think I'm in the clear.
Thanks again for the help guys.
Last edited by kevin40zx; Mar 31, 2007 at 12:52 PM.
I used some carb cleaner to clean both check valves tonight to try and get rid of my P1416 trouble-code and Check Engine Light. Pulled the AIR hose open at the splice next to the windshield washer fluid tank (no clamps there), and sprayed ALOT of carb cleaner down the hose. Then used compressed air at about 25 psi to blow the cleaner through the AIR hose system to both check valves. Repeated the process a couple more times, and probably used 1/3 or more of the can of carb cleaner. Blew air through the system for awhile after the last douching of the system to evaporate the carb cleaner before firing up the engine. Reconnected the AIR hose and fired it up. Had some funky exhaust smells until everything burned off inside the exhaust system. BTW - carb cleaner was CRC brand, and it says it's safe for O2 sensors and catalytic converters.
Drove the car a few different times and checked for P1416 after each drive. NO CODES found. Seems the carb cleaner cleaning method worked for now. I didn't use any WD-40, as I'm not sure what that might do to the O2 sensors and cats. I had pulled the AIR tube off of the check valve on the drivers side before cleaning the system, and noticed a slight oil residue on the inside of the tube. I think the valves let a little blow by go backward through them, and with time they get gunked up with exhaust residue, and the heat might make the residue even worse with time. Carb cleaner is good for cutting oily residue and carbon build up. Not sure if using WD-40 might end up causing more residue in the check valves due to heat. Sticking with straight carb cleaner seemed to work fine for me.
So I tried the carb clean several times. So now it seems that the check valve needs to go, along with the "pipe". Does the intake have to come off to really reach the check valve? Or, is there some other way to get to it?( First time user)