A couple of months ago my dashboard went nuts, something about check traction control. It happens every time I spin the tires or get a little happy with the throttle too early. Even happens if I just rudely slam down hard on the breaks and try to lock them.

I checked the codes and I get a TCS code C1243H .

The car appears to work correctly. ABS does it's job, traction control works (well as best as it can).

Even if I disable traction control I can still trip the alarms by locking the breaks, sandy roads make this easy to do. If I shut off the engine and start the car up again the dash is OK and no alarms.

Anyone have any ideas what this might be?

 

As the diagnostic below indicates you need to check the wiring and grounds to the EBCM and BPMV.

DTC C1243 BPMV Pump Motor Stalled

Circuit Description
When the pump motor relay is grounded by the EBCM, it closes and provides battery voltage to operate the pump.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
DTC C1243 can be set when the pump motor relay has been commanded off after the pump motor has been on. A malfunction has occurred if the pump motor was on, and the EBCM sensed a stuck or slowly turning pump motor.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
ABS/TCS/Active Handling (if equipped with RPO JL4) are disabled.

Indicators that turn on:
ABS indicator
Car Icon (TCS indicator)
Messages displayed on the DIC:
Service ABS
Service Traction System
Service Active HNDLG (if equipped with Active Handling RPO JL4)
Conditions for Clearing the DTC
Condition for DTC is no longer present and scan tool clear DTC function is used.
Fifty ignition cycles have passed with no DTCs detected.
Diagnostic Aids
It is very important that a thorough inspection of the wiring and connectors be performed. Failure to carefully and fully inspect wiring and connectors may result in misdiagnosis, causing part replacement with reappearance of the malfunction.
An intermittent malfunction can be caused by poor connections, broken insulation, or a wire that is broken inside the insulation.
If an intermittent malfunction exists refer to Testing for Electrical Intermittents in Wiring Systems.
Test Description
The numbers below refer to step numbers on the diagnostic table.

Checks for good pump motor ground.

Checks for good pump motor ground through the BPMV.

DTC C1243 BPMV Pump Motor Stalled Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

1
Was the Diagnostic System Check performed?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS

2
Is DTC 1217 also set as a current DTC?
--
Go to DTC C1217 Pump Motor Relay Contact Circuit Open
Go to Step 3

3
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Using the J 39200 DMM, measure the resistance between the pump motor ground stud and a good chassis ground.
Is the resistance within the range specified in the value(s) column?
0-2 ohms
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 9

4
Disconnect the EBCM connector.
Remove the EBCM from the BPMV.
Inspect the EBCM to BPMV connector for conditions which could cause intermittents, such as damage, corrosion, poor terminal contact, or presence of brake fluid.
Is connector OK and cavity free of brake fluid?
--
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 6

5
Install the J 41247 Pinout Box to the BPMV connector.
Using the J 39200 DMM, measure the resistance between the J 41247 terminal 8 and the pump motor ground stud.
Is the resistance within the range specified in the Value(s) column?
0.2-10 ohms
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 8

6
If connector corrosion or damage is evident, replace BPMV and/or EBCM as necessary.
If brake fluid is present, replace BPMV and EBCM.
Is the replacement complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

7
Replace the EBCM. Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) Replacement .

Is the replacement complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

8
Replace the BPMV. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) Replacement .

Is the replacement complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

9
Repair open or high resistance in CKT 1250. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

Bill

 

Sweet!

Stuff to check! Thank you!

I saw this in a previous post but was not sure.

I'll post back after following the flowchart.

The issue happens every time like clockwork and I wouldn't put it past my local dealership to have forgotten to reconnect something. I have reconnected and remounted more than one wire harness.

 

I've had the 1243 code and, for me, there was a really easy way to fix it. (I also have a 2000)

While driving, clear the code on your DIC. Once the TCS and ABS lights go out, stand on the brakes to engage your ABS. More than likely the TCS and ABS lights will come back on again. Do this 5-6 times and you'll notice the TCS and ABS lights will eventually stay off.

Because of the wear on your tires, I generally wait until the roads are wet to do this in a secluded spot. I don't know if I have an air bubble in my lines that works its way to the ABS module and screws it up until I force it out or what? But this method seems to work.

 

I finally solved this problem! Was too simple.

Years ago my battery blew up. Leaked a bit and corroded the battery terminals. Well, turns out that even after sandpaper, the ground was never the same.

As part of a new subwoofer and AMP project, I replaced the battery terminals and the little ground connection to the frame and whallah!! No more errors, ABS and TCS works perfectly. Too funny that the problem was just poor grounding to the battery all the time.

I measure .04 ohms now from ground to the ABS unit. Woot!

 

I also had the 1243 problem on an '00 and fixed it with the process suggested by "Fasst LN" - stand on the brakes, reset, repeat. I didn't have wet roads to minimize tire wear, but I did have about a mile of dirt road. You may find a little skid mark every hundred yards or so on that old dirt road, but I still have my tires, and that pesky ABS warning is gone. Love the forum and helpful participants.

 

That is where Steps 3, 4 and 5 in the diagnostic procedure would lead you.

Bill

 

Update: I got the ABS + Traction Control warnings again today. Found a dirt road, reset codes, and stood on the brakes. The good news: these messages went away for the rest of the day. I'm going to keep tellling myself that everything is fixed now and ignore that little inner voice.

 

I have a '01 MN6,
mine were intermittant for a year, then the battery lost a cell, I replaced the battery, and it was great for a couple weeks, then now the lights are on all the time with a code C1214.
Maybe I'll check the battery grounds again.
I checked the left frame ground, and it looks like brand new. Maybe off to ABSFIXER.COM?

 

My car went wack as well a few weeks back. All kinds of codes and dashboard warnings, but also lost control of drivers side window too. Then I noticed that the lights where out on the door panel as well. Playing with the accordian conduit/cables to the door has released these problems several times, cleared codes etc. These come back every now and then after opening the door. I'm waiting til it warms up a bit and will use the liquid tape to cover the (stupid) bare wire running through there. There is a post that shows what's going on there. Why would anyone call for a bare wire in a automobile wring harness? I undestand that this wire is the serial data communications bus wiring that goes to all control modules. You might want to check this as well.

 

I got the ABS Traction Control warning again. This time, a few minutes later that gas gauge dropped to zero - hadn't seen that in a while. I've got a 2000 vette so I started searching through all the threads (again) for a fix.

Long story short, I'm pretty sure the problem was at G105. I've cleaned and used Nolox (home depot) on almost every ground on the car. (A few I couldn’t' find.)

I'm lying under the car looking up and see ground G105 on the engine block towards the back on the driver’s side. There isn't a drop of grease, dirt, nothing on this bolt. The area couldn't be shinier coming out of the factory. I had to use a long ratchet to loosen the bolt - it was that tight. Yet, when I got the bolt off, there was slight oxidation on the two ring-type crimp connectors. I sprayed them with CorrosionX (Bill Curlee's favorite), bolted the mix back to the block, and the problem went away.

In the marine industry, G105 is a classic no-no. Dissimilar metals always corrode. G105 is comprised of an aluminum block, a steel bolt, and tin connectors – all passing current. I’m thinking that the bolt may have been stainless, which makes me feel better, but the presence of corrosion means they didn’t get it right.

I'm not saying this will fix everyone's problem, but don't be fooled by a clean looking G105.

As always, if this problem pops up again I’ll repost admitting to being an idiot so the group knowledge tends to converge on the root causes.

Dave

 

G105 has nothing to do with the system you are troubleshooting. It provides a ground for SP122, and the chassis via a ground strap.



The CorrosionX I'm familiar with has dielectric properties, which would make it a poor choice for ground connections, and the interface between the terminals. You want a conductor, not an insulator at this type of ground connection. I have used CorrosionX as a topical treatment for terminals and exposed connections.

 

Thanks Lucky. I appreciate the corrections. Regarding G105, I also removed and reset the electrical connector into the ABS board, maybe that reset the error message and caused it to quit triggering. I'm back to hearing those little voices in my head saying I'm not done with ABS/TCS messages.