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replaced Water Pump and still got Bubbles

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 11:17 AM
  #1  
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Default replaced Water Pump and still got Bubbles

I purchased my 2003 M-Yellow Z06 w/16K miles about 4 weeks ago. The guy that sold this to me forgot to mention that the water pump was leaking. No big deal ~ 2 hrs and $259 later – replaced. Now the fun stuff. 1 week later, I still can’t get the bubbles out. The vehicle just over heats – 240 degree for short period and quick – shut off!

No water in oil, plug check are clean/dry. I cooked the thermostat in a pan on the stove with water – it opens ~ 195.

I have followed the 3K rpm cycle process with cap on and evacuate the air after 210 degree. I have idled and squeezed the upper hose. Last night, my son held the throttle to 1500, 2000, 3000 and idle rpms while I squeezed the air out – this was moving lots of air. Reservoir level did drop with this process.

This is my last night of attempting to burp the system. I will plan on bringing the Z06 to the dealer if I’m not successful tonight.

Could the computer be wrong on the indicated temp? I don’t believe this to be true as the antifreeze/water is at boiling around 212/220.

I’m open to input – any thoughts?
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 11:51 AM
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Does your oil temp indicate high numbers too or only the coolant? Coolant temp sensor is easy to get at, right near plug #1.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Bracati
I purchased my 2003 M-Yellow Z06 w/16K miles about 4 weeks ago. The guy that sold this to me forgot to mention that the water pump was leaking. No big deal ~ 2 hrs and $259 later – replaced. Now the fun stuff. 1 week later, I still can’t get the bubbles out. The vehicle just over heats – 240 degree for short period and quick – shut off!

No water in oil, plug check are clean/dry. I cooked the thermostat in a pan on the stove with water – it opens ~ 195.

I have followed the 3K rpm cycle process with cap on and evacuate the air after 210 degree. I have idled and squeezed the upper hose. Last night, my son held the throttle to 1500, 2000, 3000 and idle rpms while I squeezed the air out – this was moving lots of air. Reservoir level did drop with this process.

This is my last night of attempting to burp the system. I will plan on bringing the Z06 to the dealer if I’m not successful tonight.

Could the computer be wrong on the indicated temp? I don’t believe this to be true as the antifreeze/water is at boiling around 212/220.

I’m open to input – any thoughts?
If you've replaced the water pump and you don't see any leaks, and it's not the coolant temp sensor, it sounds like a bad head gasket.
One other thing you can try is to test for exhaust gases in the coolant. I had a kit that I put about 3 oz. into a supplied burette from the reservoir after running the engine for a bit above idle. I then put a few drops of the chemical that come in the kit into the coolant in the burette. If it turns green it's ok, if it goes blue you have an exhaust leak into your coolant, or vice versa.
One other thing you might want to check is if the PO did something like the TB bypass.
I hope it's the sensor as they are a LOT cheaper.

Last edited by ArKay99; Mar 20, 2007 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 11:56 AM
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good question - the oil temp also goes up as well
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 12:10 PM
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I think that you can get a kit at auto store which works something like litmus paper test. Just stick it in the coolant and it will change if exhaust gases are present.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 12:35 PM
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excellent input. will stop by Kragen's
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 01:33 PM
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Make sure fans are operating properly. With A/C on, they should be full speed.

Make sure radiator and condenser are not obstructed. Reccomend removing upper shroud to verify the space in between the two.

Rasie front of car as high as reasonably possible, and try coolant refill procedure that way. My car was drained and sat that way for over a week, no problems just topping off with the nose up and cycling a few times.

Good Luck!
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