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Header Bolots Crossthreading.

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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 02:10 AM
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Default Header Bolots Crossthreading.

I poped the head of the first bolt on my driver side header. I am not sure why but now there is the 4th one from the front that went in perfectly fine..until half way and now its super tight. I feel like I will pop this one too ...anything I can do? maybe add washers to compensate ... I am not sure why all those bolts keep doing that they wehre kind of tight to begin with.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 02:40 AM
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rent a tap and die set from the parts store and clean the threads in the head. i had that happen to me before and that fixed it just fine.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 05:49 AM
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I would pull the header back out and clean the threads with a tap then re-install. Hopefully you can get something on the broken one and back it out.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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I agree clean the threads. You should be able to screw the bolts in by hand, then use a wrench on the last few turns. The heads are aluminum so it does not take much to mess up the threads, be careful.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 11:53 AM
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shouldnt have to pull the headers to run a tap threw the bolt hole, i have done many times, the factory head's bolt holes are just a pain in the a$$ sometimes when it comes to that.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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next time, invest the 10 minutes to run all 12 holes with a factory bolt and some anti sieze, this way you know you are good to go before the headers are in place

always start on the LHS rear, always have all 6 bolts started by hand before touching them with a wrench

headers that are best to install?, American Racing without a doubt
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by RyneZ06
shouldnt have to pull the headers to run a tap threw the bolt hole, i have done many times, the factory head's bolt holes are just a pain in the a$$ sometimes when it comes to that.
Reason for the suggestion is that it is likely misalignment got him into this and a misaligned tap will make it worse. He also needs to get the broken ones out which are under the surface of the header flange.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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Standard procedure for any work involving the removal of a bolt is to visually inspect, then clean up the threads on the bolt with a die and/or wire wheel. Use a tap to clean out the bolt hole, then blow out the hole with air. Use caution in keeping exposed engine areas from flying debris and wear safety goggles.
If a bolt will not thread in by hand – something is wrong. Find the problem and fix it.
This job is tedious – but it will save you from cross threads and snapped bolts.

Use some anti-seize on those header bolts, also.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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A tap will remove metal from the threaded hole...that's not a good idea with aluminum. You want to use a thread cleaner or "chaser" kit. It looks like a tap, but doesn't remove any more metal. You can find thread chasers in various sizes from any good tool supply or auto supply store. This SAE kit from SUMMIT RACING is $12.95. Are you sure there isn't a previous bolt broken off inside the hole?


Last edited by hotwheels57; Mar 22, 2007 at 12:24 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
A tap will remove metal from the threaded hole...that's not a good idea with aluminum. You want to use a thread cleaner or "chaser" kit. It looks like a tap, but doesn't remove any more metal. You can find thread chasers in various sizes from any good tool supply or auto supply store. This SAE kit from SUMMIT RACING is $12.95. Are you sure there isn't a previous bolt broken off inside the hole?


I think I'll have to get a set of these!!

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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 01:27 PM
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Just a thought; if reusing the stock bolts, they may be too long. When I installed my headers I reused the stock bolts and had to add a washer so the bolts didn’t bottom out.
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