Textralia install..
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 555
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From: Newark CA
Textralia install..
I installed the 700 hp billet stee fly wheel textralia w/a ram slave and throwout bearing & speed bleeder.
Well when I let go of the clutch somwhere it releases fine and car starts to roll...and if I don't gas it enough the whole thing just shakes and rattles violently! Is this the way this is supposed to grab? I mean it vibrates if I dont launch it just right.?
Well when I let go of the clutch somwhere it releases fine and car starts to roll...and if I don't gas it enough the whole thing just shakes and rattles violently! Is this the way this is supposed to grab? I mean it vibrates if I dont launch it just right.?
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 3
From: East Hampton CT
Textrailia claims that you should "true" the surface of the clutch AFTER BREAK IN if there is still chatter by dropping the clutch in 2nd gear from a stop at like 3000 rpm. That will heat up the surfaces and remove any glaze or buildup that causes the chatter. I've done this a few times and it did seem to help...though I wouldn't suggest doing it often.
I have an OZ700 that was installed a few thousand miles ago with new pilot, throwout, slave, flywheel and master by CT Corvette. The clutch still chatters a bit once its warmed up. First thing in the morning its as smooth as OEM...but once the car warms up it starts to get grabby and it will chatter if you don't let it out quickly OR slip it from ~1500rpm. Granted I have a G5X1 cam, LS6 ported heads, intake, LT's, etc that dont' help low rpm drivability either. I did notice that you can "tune out" a lot of the chatter! People may argue with that, but I found that if your engine is running real well at low rpm (eg when you launch the car normally) the clutch will engage and the car will move away at <600rpm and there will be no chatter. The problem seems to arise when you have a cam or idle problem and try to launch between 800-1300 rpm for me.
Honestly, the OZ is a multi puck clutch and will NEVER be as smooth as OEM...the flip side is that it will take a helluva lot more abuse than an oem...as well as much more hp/tq. I've heard of great things about the Spec 3+ but I'll see how my friends Spec 3+ and my OZ hold up at the track this summer.
I have an OZ700 that was installed a few thousand miles ago with new pilot, throwout, slave, flywheel and master by CT Corvette. The clutch still chatters a bit once its warmed up. First thing in the morning its as smooth as OEM...but once the car warms up it starts to get grabby and it will chatter if you don't let it out quickly OR slip it from ~1500rpm. Granted I have a G5X1 cam, LS6 ported heads, intake, LT's, etc that dont' help low rpm drivability either. I did notice that you can "tune out" a lot of the chatter! People may argue with that, but I found that if your engine is running real well at low rpm (eg when you launch the car normally) the clutch will engage and the car will move away at <600rpm and there will be no chatter. The problem seems to arise when you have a cam or idle problem and try to launch between 800-1300 rpm for me.
Honestly, the OZ is a multi puck clutch and will NEVER be as smooth as OEM...the flip side is that it will take a helluva lot more abuse than an oem...as well as much more hp/tq. I've heard of great things about the Spec 3+ but I'll see how my friends Spec 3+ and my OZ hold up at the track this summer.
