Installing TSP longtubes?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
These headers are actually easier to install without the cats/EGR/A.I.R. stuff. You will be eliminating the rear oxygen sensors, so you will want to get the car tuned afterward. Installation is not too difficult, just time consuming. I would try to get access to a car hoist, but not absolutely necessary since both sides will drop in from the top (would help, though, when installing the X-pipe, O2 sensors, and remaining exhaust).
Removal of the following is required: Spark plugs, coils, valvecovers, alternator, dipstick tube, steel braided fuel line, A.I.R. plumbing from stock exhaust. I unbolted the starter, but kept it tucked up close to the block (not sure if it was required, though). Probably should unhook the starter wires, then re-install with header in place BUT not bolted to head yet. Unbolt steering shaft at the rack, just pivot it away from engine. I had to tweak the AC lines closer to the frame (while lowering the pass. side header down into engine bay), but they had plenty of flex without worry of causing leaks.
The biggest pain in the ash is this... You will have to 'test' fit the headers to see, and mark, where the front oxygen sensors will need to poke up into tunnel plate. Use a small hole saw to make 'figure 8' holes, then combine into an ob-long hole--Do this for BOTH sensors (they will be staggered, criss-crossing each other from opposing collectors).
Hang headers LOOSE on heads, install O2 sensors (they will be very close together), slide on X-pipe (support it in tunnel), THEN progressively start tightening bolts/clamps.
Be prepared to re-route some wiring or zip-tie away from header tubes.
Use tin foil or Hi-temp RTV where the bandclamps come together, and don't be afraid to tighten them TIGHT.
Not exactly a fun mod, but well worth it for the money saved and HP gained.
Good luck.
Removal of the following is required: Spark plugs, coils, valvecovers, alternator, dipstick tube, steel braided fuel line, A.I.R. plumbing from stock exhaust. I unbolted the starter, but kept it tucked up close to the block (not sure if it was required, though). Probably should unhook the starter wires, then re-install with header in place BUT not bolted to head yet. Unbolt steering shaft at the rack, just pivot it away from engine. I had to tweak the AC lines closer to the frame (while lowering the pass. side header down into engine bay), but they had plenty of flex without worry of causing leaks.
The biggest pain in the ash is this... You will have to 'test' fit the headers to see, and mark, where the front oxygen sensors will need to poke up into tunnel plate. Use a small hole saw to make 'figure 8' holes, then combine into an ob-long hole--Do this for BOTH sensors (they will be staggered, criss-crossing each other from opposing collectors).
Hang headers LOOSE on heads, install O2 sensors (they will be very close together), slide on X-pipe (support it in tunnel), THEN progressively start tightening bolts/clamps.
Be prepared to re-route some wiring or zip-tie away from header tubes.
Use tin foil or Hi-temp RTV where the bandclamps come together, and don't be afraid to tighten them TIGHT.
Not exactly a fun mod, but well worth it for the money saved and HP gained.
Good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
I guess I'm not sure about deleting the A.I.R. system/plumbing on the earlier C5s. TSP does offer their headers with A.I.R. tubes for re-connecting the stock plumbing. You can still eliminate the cats and secondary O2 sensors.
Call John J. at TSP, he should have some good tech.
Call John J. at TSP, he should have some good tech.
