my passenger side headlight is starting to malfunction, would it be easier to replace the entire motor or just get the motor rebuild kit from ecklers? im no mechanic but im "ok" with a wrench, just wondering what would be easier with the least amount of headache...please help!

 

I myself would just replace the motor itself.

 

Assuming it is the motor - usually indicated by a grinding noise when you try to raise and lower the headlight - you will have to take the motor out whether you fix or replace it.

Since your profile says you have a '97 - fixing will be really easy since the early headlight motor covers are held on by 3 screws so the cover is easy to remove to replace the stripped gear. Later years have the cover glued on so more of a pain.

Just do a search on this forum for Rodney Dickman - he sells the replacement brass gears with all the parts you need - gasket, grease, etc...............should be cheaper than Ecklers.

 

the light is not grindind at this time, sometimes it just wont raise, will this still be the same issue?

 

I would assume from the description of the problem the electrical function of the motor is working fine and the real issue is that the stock nylon gear is shot. If that's the case then it's a lot cheaper to replace the gear with a brass one and a more permanent solution. If you buy a whole new motor it will cost 3x the cost of Rodneys kit. If you purchase a whole new motor they come with a nylon gear and a few years down the road you back in the same boat.

I used Rodneys kit and repaired both sides. Worked great.

 

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/index.htm

(Your motor should have three screws holding it together, so it will not have to be pried apart, no 24 hr drying time)

I recently performed this repair on my late model 2000. When I attempted to remove the motor w/o taking the assembly out the last of the (3) bolts holding the motor in hit the hood hinge preventing its removal. Also, when you remove the Motor/Actuator and separate it from the linkage the headlight unit will drop and lining it back up with the linkage will be difficult. I followed the directions in the GM Service manual and it was not that difficult. It took about 30 minutes each for removal and reinstall the assm. And about 10-20 minutes each for the removal and reinstall of the Motor/Actuator (not counting epoxy set up time).

I suggest the following:

Put the front of the car up on ramps (rhino ramps work w/ a couple of 2 x 4’s placed at the leading edge).

Remove the HDLP Maxi Circuit breaker #54 located under the passenger side foot board.

Disconnect the headlamp wiring harness for the appropriate headlamp.

Raise the headlamp manually.

Remove the headlamp bezel and headlamp cover. (Lower the headlamp assm. slightly to remove the two rear screws from the cover)

This is the ramps come in. Remove the front bumper close out panel on the effected side. This panel is directly under the headlamp. There are five 5/32 screws – easy to do. Don’t worry about the brake duct you can work around it.

Have a helper support the headlamp assm. Remove the two (2) bolts mounting the headlamp bracket to the frame. Then remove the three (3) nuts mounting the headlamp bracket the stud plate. Removing the three mounting nuts was easiest from underneath the car, and the two frame bolts can be done for up top.

Carefully lift the assm out of the vehicle; they have to clear the (3) studs extending from the headlamp stud plate. These studs also maintain headlamp alignment so realignment is not necessary after you reinstall the headlamp unit.

**Motor/Actuator – Take note of the linkage to motor relationship for reassembly.

Remove the nut retaining the headlamp assm pivot arm the headlamp motor.

Remove the three (3) bolts mounting the motor to the assm.

Do your motor repair and reverse the process.

Best of Luck! -- Ed

 

it's easier to just replace the whole motor itself, but that one will fail eventually too. a brass gear replacement is a permenant fix.

 

I think the gear is my problem as well. The headlight comes up occasionally, goes down all the time, no grinding and headlamp bulb is on. The process sounds a bit intimidating but the money one can save by DIY is considerable.

Rodney Dickmans gears are very nice but I read somewhere that the BFranker kit is better because it eliminates the rubber grommet which can also be problematic. Comments anyone?

 

I am installing Rodney Dickman's upgrades to the motors as we speak. They seem way better than the stock internals of the motors.

Removing the headlight assembly is not that difficult.

I believe if you order a new motor you may get a post 2000 motor which will be the one with the cover plate glued on.

I think for the $$$ savings and convenience of keeping your motor with the screwed on (as opposed to glued on) cover plate that rebuilding with a kit is better.

I bought Rodney Dickman's which was shipped quickly, was at reasonable cost, has good directions and packaged nicely. I am not familiar with the other kit mentioned in this thread.