Touch up paint
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,007
Likes: 2
From: Manteo NC
Touch up paint
I have a question about applying touch up paint on the lower front bumper area of my 2000 Coupe. Living in Wisconsin and the uneven roads as careful as I am it gets scrapped alot! I bought paint at the dealership, but need suggestions on how to touch up those annoying scrapes and chips from rocks. Thanks for the advice!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 25
From: If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door. South West Florida / Livin' The Dream
St. Jude Donor '12
Tough to give you an answer without knowing you experience with painting, but based on you description of the issue you may need to have it professionally re painted, to get the result your looking for. Once its repainted protect it from scrapes with FattDaddy's available from CCA (a forum sponsor) Here's a link to the product:
http://www.customcorvetteaccessories...fattdaddy.html
From how you describe it I'm not sure how you would get a good result using touch up paint (I'm assuming what you bought is the small container with a brush or paint pen) Touch up paint works OK for a few chips, but you said it gets scraped a lot so I don't think you'd be happy with the results using that method.
If you have experience with automotive paint, or want to give it a try before getting it done professionally, then I would suggest you google automotive painting and find instructions on proper prep and painting. Here's what I found:
Sanding
Before, during, and after you paint/work on a surface, you’ll need to sand it. Sanding is essential for removing “hills and valleys” in your surface, removing an orange peel effect from painting, and for getting things to a point where they’re clean enough to prime and seal. So, don’t think you can skip out on the sanding.
There are many electric and air powered sanders out there, and they do a lot of good things. But there’s the potential to wear your surface too much or to burn through your paint. So, consider sanding by hand. For prep work, usually 200-220 grit is good. It’ll get your surface clean and smooth. Once you’ve primed/sealed your surface, give it a light sanding again, so you have a smooth surface to paint. Otherwise, your paint wont look super awesome.
After paint is applied, if you’re working with enamels, you may choose to wet sand. This smoothes your surface and cleans it at the same time. You can use a 220-320 grit here, depending on how your paint surface is, and how smooth it is.
Always remember, when sanding, take your time. Don’t rush through it, don’t press too hard, and be patient. It’s always better to remove too little paint, than too much.
Masking
When you paint your surface, you may have places you don’t want the paint to go. This is easily remedied with masking tape. There are many types of masking tape out there, so the trick is to try and find one that you like, that covers your surface. The important thing to remember is that masking doesn’t have to look pretty, as long as it does a good job.
Aerosols
Aerosol paint is cheap, readily available, and does a pretty good job for the most part. Automotive aerosols are designed to give that automotive finish when clear-coated, and to harden differently, since they’re going to be exposed to the elements.
When working with automotive aerosols, you will need to prime your surface. Auto grade sandable primer comes in cans in various colors. If you apply this to your sanded surface first, you’ll do a lot better job. So, whatever you do, don’t skip the primer step.
Clear Coat
Typically, true automotive clear coat comes in a tub, you mix it with other binders and such, spray it, and then bake it. In your garage, this isn’t easy. So, you pretty much have to go aerosol. Head to your local auto parts store and look for an aerosol automotive clear coat.
If you rush yourself, use cheap materials or do a cheap job, you will get poor results. Don’t tackle a project that is beyond your skill level, and do a good job at what you do decide to tackle. You’ll be much happier with the results.
Good Luck
http://www.customcorvetteaccessories...fattdaddy.html
From how you describe it I'm not sure how you would get a good result using touch up paint (I'm assuming what you bought is the small container with a brush or paint pen) Touch up paint works OK for a few chips, but you said it gets scraped a lot so I don't think you'd be happy with the results using that method.
If you have experience with automotive paint, or want to give it a try before getting it done professionally, then I would suggest you google automotive painting and find instructions on proper prep and painting. Here's what I found:
Sanding
Before, during, and after you paint/work on a surface, you’ll need to sand it. Sanding is essential for removing “hills and valleys” in your surface, removing an orange peel effect from painting, and for getting things to a point where they’re clean enough to prime and seal. So, don’t think you can skip out on the sanding.
There are many electric and air powered sanders out there, and they do a lot of good things. But there’s the potential to wear your surface too much or to burn through your paint. So, consider sanding by hand. For prep work, usually 200-220 grit is good. It’ll get your surface clean and smooth. Once you’ve primed/sealed your surface, give it a light sanding again, so you have a smooth surface to paint. Otherwise, your paint wont look super awesome.
After paint is applied, if you’re working with enamels, you may choose to wet sand. This smoothes your surface and cleans it at the same time. You can use a 220-320 grit here, depending on how your paint surface is, and how smooth it is.
Always remember, when sanding, take your time. Don’t rush through it, don’t press too hard, and be patient. It’s always better to remove too little paint, than too much.
Masking
When you paint your surface, you may have places you don’t want the paint to go. This is easily remedied with masking tape. There are many types of masking tape out there, so the trick is to try and find one that you like, that covers your surface. The important thing to remember is that masking doesn’t have to look pretty, as long as it does a good job.
Aerosols
Aerosol paint is cheap, readily available, and does a pretty good job for the most part. Automotive aerosols are designed to give that automotive finish when clear-coated, and to harden differently, since they’re going to be exposed to the elements.
When working with automotive aerosols, you will need to prime your surface. Auto grade sandable primer comes in cans in various colors. If you apply this to your sanded surface first, you’ll do a lot better job. So, whatever you do, don’t skip the primer step.
Clear Coat
Typically, true automotive clear coat comes in a tub, you mix it with other binders and such, spray it, and then bake it. In your garage, this isn’t easy. So, you pretty much have to go aerosol. Head to your local auto parts store and look for an aerosol automotive clear coat.
If you rush yourself, use cheap materials or do a cheap job, you will get poor results. Don’t tackle a project that is beyond your skill level, and do a good job at what you do decide to tackle. You’ll be much happier with the results.
Good Luck
8th Gear
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Just a few other things:
- always use blue masking tape - lower adhesive
- small chips and scrapes can be touched up with a brush using many THIN coats
- store bought clear coats will not work as well as urethane used at spray shops.
- perhaps describing scratches or pics may help
- again trick is thin coats until scratch is filled - then 3M rubbing compound
hope this helps
- always use blue masking tape - lower adhesive
- small chips and scrapes can be touched up with a brush using many THIN coats
- store bought clear coats will not work as well as urethane used at spray shops.
- perhaps describing scratches or pics may help
- again trick is thin coats until scratch is filled - then 3M rubbing compound
hope this helps
