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knock sensor rusting?

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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 01:46 PM
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Default knock sensor rusting?

I was reading on the Care Car Section that if you wash your engine that often the knock sensor will get wet and rust and become inoperable.

Does anyone know if you would get a DIC message telling you it went out

Also, where is the knock sensor located and what does it look like so if I did wash the engine with engine cleaner I could cover it up?

Thanks
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 02:18 PM
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There are 2 of them below the intake manifold, GM issued a service bulletin a few years ago stating for the techs to use RTV to build a dam around the opening of the knock sensor to help keep water out.

BTW - if it fills with water you'll get a "check engine" light when the sensor fails.
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by runamuk
There are 2 of them below the intake manifold, GM issued a service bulletin a few years ago stating for the techs to use RTV to build a dam around the opening of the knock sensor to help keep water out.

BTW - if it fills with water you'll get a "check engine" light when the sensor fails.
One way to avoid letting the water sit around the sensor is to run the engine with the hood closed until the water evaporates. It takes several minutes but dries out the engine compartment after washing the engine.

Bill
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 03:28 PM
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Thanks for the info guys Does anyone have a picture of the knock sensor or picture of the engine pointing to what I should be covering or trying to stay away from?
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 09:09 PM
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ttt
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 12:32 AM
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Anyone have a drawing of the C5 engine?
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 12:41 AM
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I know this is a dumb question, but if the knock sensors are underneath the intake manifold inside the engine, how does water get inside?
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Choreo
I know this is a dumb question, but if the knock sensors are underneath the intake manifold inside the engine, how does water get inside?
They aren't inside the engine just underneath the intake manifold.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by runamuk
They aren't inside the engine just underneath the intake manifold.
Ah!
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by captcruz
Thanks for the info guys Does anyone have a picture of the knock sensor or picture of the engine pointing to what I should be covering or trying to stay away from?
They're the two round things in the valley cover (under the intake manifold).

Pictured here...you can see mine have already been RTV'd:




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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
They're the two round things in the valley cover (under the intake manifold).

Pictured here...you can see mine have already been RTV'd:




So, I guess water can get to these? I am used to the old 454's where the intake manifold had gaskets on all sides, but I guess since these new designs use O-rings there is actually a small gap between the intake and heads when torqued down and no front or rear seals - is that right?
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Choreo
So, I guess water can get to these? I am used to the old 454's where the intake manifold had gaskets on all sides, but I guess since these new designs use O-rings there is actually a small gap between the intake and heads when torqued down and no front or rear seals - is that right?
yep, on certain years there is also a coolant tube that runs in that space between the intake and valley cover. Took mine out when I did the bypass, and did the RTV on the knock sensors. If I remember correctly the TSB targeted the rear knock sensor specifically and you were supposed to rotate it until the wire faced forward, then rtv all the way around. Memory has been known to be faulty before, worth to double check. The yellow clips you see on the knock sensor lines would have clipped to the coolant tube.


Last edited by IFLUBYU; Apr 12, 2007 at 12:10 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by IFLUBYU
yep, on certain years there is also a coolant tube that runs in that space between the intake and valley cover. Took mine out when I did the bypass, and did the RTV on the knock sensors. If I remember correctly the TSB targeted the rear knock sensor specifically and you were supposed to rotate it until the wire faced forward, then rtv all the way around. Memory has been known to be faulty before, worth to double check. The yellow clips you see on the knock sensor lines would have clipped to the coolant tube.
Thanks for all the info and great pics! Somewhat unrelated, but how does the valley cover seal to the block and heads - does it use a replaceable gasket set, O-Rings, something else? From the photo it looks like it just seals to the block only?
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
They're the two round things in the valley cover (under the intake manifold).

Pictured here...you can see mine have already been RTV'd:




Thanks for the pic and explanation
I asked a guy here in San Diego about changing these out and was told they aren't too bad but putting the intake manifold back on correctly is tricky. Have you found this to be true?
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by captcruz
Thanks for the pic and explanation
I asked a guy here in San Diego about changing these out and was told they aren't too bad but putting the intake manifold back on correctly is tricky. Have you found this to be true?
Nothing tricky about installing the intake manifold just make sure you clean all of the dirt and debris before you set it in place.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Choreo
Thanks for all the info and great pics! Somewhat unrelated, but how does the valley cover seal to the block and heads - does it use a replaceable gasket set, O-Rings, something else? From the photo it looks like it just seals to the block only?

The valley cover bolts to the block only and uses a metal gasket with a rubber seal on it, most of the time this can be reused when the cover is removed and reinstalled.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by runamuk
The valley cover bolts to the block only and uses a metal gasket with a rubber seal on it, most of the time this can be reused when the cover is removed and reinstalled.
I think I'll buy the metal seal just to be on the safe side. With my luck I wouldn't be able to get it back on correctly and have to spend another $300 for the stealership to put it back on correctly
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 02:18 PM
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Why are you removing the metal valve valley plate from the block??? You can remove the two rubber plugs and the sensors that are in the well just unscrew from the plate. There is no need to remove the valve valley plate unless you just want to.

BC
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Why are you removing the metal valve valley plate from the block??? You can remove the two rubber plugs and the sensors that are in the well just unscrew from the plate. There is no need to remove the valve valley plate unless you just want to.

BC


You don't need to remove the valley cover to change the knock sensors, in fact if you want to remove the valley cover then you would remove the knock sensors first.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by runamuk


You don't need to remove the valley cover to change the knock sensors, in fact if you want to remove the valley cover then you would remove the knock sensors first.
O.k. then. Sounds like I don't need this metal/rubber gasket after all Just need to remove the intake manifold then replace the knock sensors and put manifold back on and I'm good to go
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