starter question

Seeing continuity to the positive side, no...you shouldn't. One thing that could cause it would be the theft deterrent relay stuck or shorted.
If you are at the starter right now, remove purple wire, and check if your continuity to + is coming from the wire, or the solenoid post.
That purple wire is what initiates the starting process. Apply +12v to that wire, and your starter should spin.
Seeing continuity to the positive side, no...you shouldn't. One thing that could cause it would be the theft deterrent relay stuck or shorted.
If you are at the starter right now, remove purple wire, and check if your continuity to + is coming from the wire, or the solenoid post.
That purple wire is what initiates the starting process. Apply +12v to that wire, and your starter should spin.


Coil side:
Yellow - +12v from ignition switch during starting.
Yellow/black stripe - Ground signal supplied by BCM.
Note this will only show continuity to ground during starting (assuming no theft protection is occuring...the BCM has the ability to prevent starting by not supplying this ground signal).
Load side:
Red - +12v from battery
Purple - +12v to starter solenoid during starting.


Full starter system schematic:


here's a video of my problem.
http://www.livevideo.com/video/C4252...ont-start.aspx
i didnt get a chance to check the yellow wires, but i did get to check the red and purple... with the purple wire disconnected from the starter, i checked it's voltage when attempting to start the car. it got 14v. i hooked it back up to the starter, attempted to start again and got 5v?? i also want to check the voltage on the red wire when the purple wire is connected to the starter as well, but i didnt get a chance to today.
Last edited by The Viking; Apr 25, 2007 at 07:37 PM.

However, evident by the video, your car is experiencing a huge voltage drop when you try to start. If the voltage at the purple wire is dropping that much, either your battery is shot (have you had it load-tested?), or you have a very bad connection between battery and the purple wire...and the theft deterrant relay would be the likely suspect for such a poor connection. especially if you've ever had water intrusion in the pass floor area.
Pull that relay out and closely inspect it. It is like $35 at a dealer. If you have any doubt about it's integrity, replace it. A marginal connection can show good voltage static, but once under load, will fail.
Testing the red wire at that relay during an attempted start will quickly tell you if it's poor relay contact. Low voltage on purple, but still reading high voltage on red wire, would definitely point to bad relay contacts.
If you see that much of a voltage drop on the red wire too, check the 60a start fuse in the footwell fusebox, and if that looks normal and fits tight in it's socket. I have nothing else to suspect other than the battery.
The starter itself could be to blame, but since it does seem to begin to spin normally before dropping out, I tend to doubt it.
Last edited by Y2Kvert4me; Apr 25, 2007 at 07:48 PM.
However, evident by the video, your car is experiencing a huge voltage drop when you try to start. If the voltage at the purple wire is dropping that much, either your battery is shot (have you had it load-tested?), or you have a very bad connection between battery and the purple wire...and the theft deterrant relay would be the likely suspect for such a poor connection. especially if you've ever had water intrusion in the pass floor area.
Pull that relay out and closely inspect it. It is like $35 at a dealer. If you have any doubt about it's integrity, replace it. A marginal connection can show good voltage static, but once under load, will fail.
Testing the red wire at that relay during an attempted start will quickly tell you if it's poor relay contact. Low voltage on purple, but still reading high voltage on red wire, would definitely point to bad relay contacts.
If you see that much of a voltage drop on the red wire too, check the 60a start fuse in the footwell fusebox, and if that looks normal and fits tight in it's socket. I have nothing else to suspect other than the battery.
The starter itself could be to blame, but since it does seem to begin to spin normally before dropping out, I tend to doubt it.


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Before doing so, on the new relay, make sure you have continuity ( 0 ohms) between post 30, and the middle tab (which should be 87a)...that would be an unused normally closed contact.
If the extra middle post is NOT 87a, then no, you can't cut that post off.



