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Another headlight problem

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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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Default Another headlight problem

Ive searched the forum and didnt find anything about this issue. Ive already replaced the nylon gears with brass gears in both motors. I did that this last January and have worked with no problem up until now. When I turn them on the left one pops up all the way but the right one pops up only most of the way. The bottom part of the headlight is suppose to be flush with the body and its not on the right side, it has about 1/2" more to go to be flush. I can manually turn it the rest of the way up with no problem but when I turn them off and then back on again it does the same thing. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 01:44 PM
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This is most likely the actuator control module which is located behind the passenger headlight assembly.

I had a problem with my drivers side not going up or down at all excpet manually. I too replaced the gears but it did not help. My passenger side would work sometimes but would not raise all of the way sometimes.

I changed out the control module and it corrected both sides for me.

You can buy them new for $220 - $285 Depending if you go through the forum dealers or not or

I bought mine used from karshop here on the forum.

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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 12:37 PM
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Default Headlamp Door

My passenger side door opens fine but when it closes ,the motor keeps running for like5-10 seconds I know it't eating up the gears. Do you think this is mod. as well...Thanks
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Pat
My passenger side door opens fine but when it closes ,the motor keeps running for like5-10 seconds I know it't eating up the gears. Do you think this is mod. as well...Thanks
Have you put brass gears in yours yet? If not you need to. That should fix your problem once you do that.
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 02MillenniumVette
Ive searched the forum and didnt find anything about this issue. Ive already replaced the nylon gears with brass gears in both motors. I did that this last January and have worked with no problem up until now. When I turn them on the left one pops up all the way but the right one pops up only most of the way. The bottom part of the headlight is suppose to be flush with the body and its not on the right side, it has about 1/2" more to go to be flush. I can manually turn it the rest of the way up with no problem but when I turn them off and then back on again it does the same thing. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Got the same problem with mine as of last night. Did you get this fixed? Did you replace the actuator control module? Got any step by step instructions?
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 09:28 AM
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ttt
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 09:41 AM
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Did you lube the brass gear well when you put it in? The module uses current sensing to stop motors. If it senses high current, it shuts off power.

If you did not lube the brass gears well, I would re-lube them first.

Last edited by Oldvetter; Sep 8, 2007 at 03:56 PM.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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Used the entire lube packet that was sent with the Rodney Dickman kit. I guess I will spend the money and get the actuator control module. There goes my 2 replacement front thin spokes. So I'll be driving around with spider webbed and pitted wheels a little while longer. Heavy sigh. I'll repost if that corrects it for the sake of others.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 02:36 PM
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At least one person reported that Rodney's new rubber bushing had broke up after one year. You may want to check this possibility first.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JonLuvsVettes
Got the same problem with mine as of last night. Did you get this fixed? Did you replace the actuator control module? Got any step by step instructions?
Yea I got it fixed. What it was, was the epoxy holding the cap on broke loose, so that let the gear slip out a little bit where it wouldnt rotate the headlight all the way up and eventually it didnt rotate at all. I found out what I originally did wrong but to fix my problem I put three screws in both motors to hold the cap down. I had found out that the drivers side epoxy had broken loose also, so thats why I put screws in it too. The kit that I bought came from Corvette Central, but I didnt know it at the time, but apparently they had been getting complaints that the epoxy wasnt holding so they started including and thin metal peice that will hold that cap on when the motor gets bolted back on. If I find some pics of it I will post them.

Edit: Here is a link to another forum members post doing the brass gear install with lots of pics. The second to last picture has the thin metal peice Im talking about. It is a T-bracket.
Brass Gear Install

Last edited by 02MillenniumVette; Sep 7, 2007 at 07:04 PM.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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Thanks for the info. I got my gears from Rodney Dickman and it included the T bracket. Someone else thought maybe the rubber bushing inside might be torn up already. I've only used the headlights about 15 times since the gear replacement so I am not sure that is very probable, but I will keep it in the back of mind just in case.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 10:46 PM
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my rodney gears bushing was torn up in no time. if i had to do it over again i'd use brent franker's gear:



http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/index.htm

i ended up rigging my rodney gear to eliminate the rubber bushing like the franker gear does.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 11:58 PM
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Good information. Mine just went out tonight and I'm ready to go out and relax at a local night spot in Dallas, TX. I will read up on this on Saturday.

Last edited by mcbevwiz; Sep 8, 2007 at 03:13 PM.
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