Installed my fast 90/90 on my 02 z06 today when i got done and went to start car. Car started but had check engine light was on and car runs like it has the bigest cam i have ever seen. Just shakes at idle. I have gone over ever connector and they are all pluged in cant find any leaks bolts were changed in valley cover and intake was tighted to 10nm like instructions say. The plug and play harness cam from caspers electric and i dont know if its wired right. NEED HELP ANY ADVISE IS GREATLY NEEDED!!!!!!!!!!

 

Have you checked the vacuum lines behind the intake?

 

I thought that to but both lines are hooked up. I am worryed about the check engine light didnt have one before i started and i have one now. Light was on and stayed on the first fire up. I mean it didnt start and run a little then the light came on. The light was on from the begeing like a sensor was unpluged or wires are not wired right in the plug and play harness. I also noticed that while engine is running when you rev it up there is a whisle noise.

 

If you have a check engine light, then you should have some error codes on your DIC. Please check and tell us exactly what they are.

 

here's what happen to me



and how i fixed it

 

How did you check for leaks? Try spraying a little water around the top of each intake port to see if there is an RPM change. Also, how tight did you go on the throttle body? FAST says 50 in-lb, I went to 25 in-lb and had plenty of compression on the gasket and stopped. Also, did you bend down the forward head to head coolant line, there should be clearance under it.

I am in the middle of my installation right now and would love to find out why your car is doing this. I also found that my MAP sensor was in contact with the firewall and in the end had to move it to a remote location. As stated above, the error codes will direct you where to look.

 

Had exactly the same response. I started the engine before I connected the air bridge and MAF. Wanted to check for vacuum leaks. My MAF sensor is out on the cold air box outlet. Shut off the engine and completed the reassembly of the air intake and all was well. Check your air intake. Is the MAF and all duct work sealed and connected correctly?

 

Went out this morning and scaned car had p0300 and thats all. Vehical is missing and running like ****. My car is a z06 and the valley cover has some bumps in it. They were about same size as new bolts maybe a little bigger but i did nothing to them could those have cracked the intake base also what is every one tighting there intakes down to i went 10 newton meters just like instructions say and t/b was tighted to 50 inlb. I think the intake is cracked i am going to pull it off as soon as car cools down.

 

Get a can of starting fluid, then start the engine and spray the starting fluid around the intake, if you have a leak then the RPM's will go up.

 

Prior to pulling, chech for contact with the front coolant crossover pipe. If you didn't bend it down it may be holding up the front of the intake and causing a leak. A lot of guys have installed on a Z06 with that valley cover, haven't seen any issues with this. Good luck, I am bolting mine in place right now

 

I bent that coolant pipe down aready. What are you torquing your manifold bolts to.

 

Something went astray with the install....

Sounds like a cracked fitting or a dislodged MAP sensor causing a major vacuum leak enough for you to hear a whistle.

I also strongly recommend anyone that installs a FAST replace the stock (usually crushed) OEM gaskets around each inlet port with a FAST thicker brand new replacement. They do a much better job at sealing up all the intake ports than even a brand new OEM gasket. This is especially a good move as most FAST intakes have a slight warp in them out of the box (some worse than others), but the gaskets and the correct method of tightening the intake to the engine (starting from the center and working you way out like a cylinder head install with numerous passes) will usually cure any warping issues.

Whatever the issue was I have a feeling removing the intake which is fairly quick and easy (no mess or worrying about properly lining up a distributor like the old school 23' stuff) will ultimately show the root of your problem.

Also, confirm the intake is completely flat against the intake face of the cylinder heads.....after its properly seated and torqued down there should be no gap whatsoever on each side. I assume you went over each bolt and checked they were tight. If everythig looks good then its time to remove it to see whats up....I think that will tell the tale

Keep us posted and good luck....

Tony

 

Well, I hit another snag. Not sure if you found this one, but my fuel rail stop (driver's side rear) hit the top of the cowl and won't align with the bolt holes because it hits the ribs on the back of the FAST. Grinding wheel took care of the fit, now waiting for the paint to dry a bit on the stop.

Mods required thus far:

1. New driver's side PCV hose to free up space behind the FAST
2. Re-routing the A/C vacuum line, this took some time to figure out but I can now plug/unplug with the intake in place so this worked out well
3. Remote placement of the MAP. While the solution isn't real elegant, the MAP ends up in a place where it won't band anything nor will it lay against anything hot. I can also swap it out with removing the intake in the future
4. Fuel rail stop

However, with these changes the FAST drops right into place.


My car must be strange as I seem to be running into a ton of fitment problems with the cowl that no-one ever mentioned before. Oh well, grab some lunch while the paint dries (won't dry if you watch it you know)

 

Just went out and removed intake there is no damage to intake at all no cracks nathing. bolt were all thight and torgued to 10 newton meters when it was installed. The car is pretty much stock minus air induction and pro long tubes from lg with no cats i did do a plug swap when i did the intake and put tr6 ngk's in gap. of .050 vehical is missing dont know which hole it is but iam consened with the torgueing of the intake specs are a lot 10 newton meters is alot. I did use the fast intake gaskets around the ports. Also the 6 bolts that tighten the upper half of intake to the lower half are only torgued to 50 inlbs. I know i have do something wrong just dont know what. The freash air line on valve cover is caped at the moment but i do have a valve cover breather on that valve cover. and the line from me valley cover runs to my catch can and than to the intake with out the pvc installed. The map sensor is silconed in to the back of the intake and doesnt move or hit the fire wall I just dont know.

 

Reinstalled intake and used stock bolts this time retorqued intake in 5 steps all the way to 90 inlbs and started still have miss i almost possitive its not the intake going after the new plugs or wires after car cools down. I have never had a spark plug be bad out of the box but thats where i will start.

 

Rule #1 - ONE MOD AT A TIME. Reason for statement: you'll have a hell of a time trying to figure out what you did wrong.

 

If its a hard skip, that sounds like a plug or wire.

Don't feel bad, I modified my fuel rail stop because it didn't fit and got all the way to the injector installation only to realize that it didn't fit because it was upside down

I knew today would be bad when I got stuck in town with the Suburban and had to call a wrecker. Probably should have just sat around and drank all day, but then I probably would have fallen down the stairs

Hang in there, I am finding that it goes much faster each time I screw it up and re-install it

 

OK here is were i am at now. I took out all my tr6 plugs and put back in my tr55 changed my aftermarket lg plug wires and installed my stock wires started the vehical and sprayed brake clean all around the intake and couldnt find any leaks. Still had slight miss no were near like it was. Than i noticed i didnt have the pvc valve in line to the intake from my catch can.As soon as i put that in the car started up and ran fine car runs great now with no problems. I do have one question to any one that has a fast installed on there car what did you guys do with the line that comes off the valve cover did you guys use a T fitting for the catch can or what mine just has a open hose hanging from it?

 

I also want to say thanks for everones help with my problem it is much appreciated and thanks again. James

 

Glad to see you found it. I put a fitting in my coupler and found a 90 degree hose connection that will fit it and plut into the hose from the valve cover.

This thread has the parts I bought.

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