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Logic behind master cylinder change?

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Old May 8, 2007 | 04:20 PM
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Default Logic behind master cylinder change?

Everyone seems to recommend changing out the master cylinder as part of the clutch swap, on a 2002 is this a nice to have or something that is necessary? Curious as to why it is so strongly recommended.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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If you are using a clutch with a significant increase in clamping force, the larger cylinder helps, basically giving more "leverage", which makes the pedal not as stiff as it would be without it. And the adjustable part is just an added convenience at being able to adjust your engage/disengage point on the pedal.

Not an expert, just my $.02, hope that helps...

what clutch are you going to?
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Old May 8, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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Textralia X-grip, they recommend staying with stock parts but everyone seems to favor full replacement.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Textralia X-grip, they recommend staying with stock parts but everyone seems to favor full replacement.
Yeah, the tex and mcleod were an issue, put a ls6 master in no problems. But when I had my exedy in, you almost had to have the mcleod.

If tex says ls6 then go ls6, trust me on that one. When I had mine done they were still undecided about the non-oem adjustables, and I paid the price for it. If the master has any significant miles on it, put in a new ls6 one. definately go with a new slave (bleeder extension helps), and throw-out bearing.

Good Luck!

Last edited by IFLUBYU; May 8, 2007 at 06:54 PM.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 07:45 PM
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Throw out should be part of the slave (according to my parts book). So far have ordered slave, master, pilot, remote bleeder. Clutch will be tomorrow morning.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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The master if, bled should be fine if it is not leaking internally or externally.
The master can also be relatively easily changed after the fact if it fails.
I have done a lot of clutches lately and all were fine with original master if an adjustable is not required and they are fully bled.
The guys with failing sticking clutches are game to try drilling, shimming, basting, bleeding and mouth to mouth in a vain effort to nurse the bad clutch back to heath, but it is a loosing battle once it starts to slip.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by see5
The master if, bled should be fine if it is not leaking internally or externally.
The master can also be relatively easily changed after the fact if it fails.
I have done a lot of clutches lately and all were fine with original master if an adjustable is not required and they are fully bled.
The guys with failing sticking clutches are game to try drilling, shimming, basting, bleeding and mouth to mouth in a vain effort to nurse the bad clutch back to heath, but it is a loosing battle once it starts to slip.
I emphatically

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