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LG Header Install

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Old May 10, 2007 | 12:24 AM
  #1  
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Default LG Header Install

Getting ready to install LG Street Series headers. Only came with 1 page instruction sheet. Anyone have tips or better install instructions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 12:41 AM
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From: Are you fat because you're lazy or lazy because you're fat? San Jose, CA
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Here's a good one for the Pros, I'm sure they are very similar.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=29
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Old May 10, 2007 | 08:47 AM
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we used the ls1 article also. just make sure you keep your o2 sensors labeled so you don't get the mixed up, it is easy to do.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 09:11 AM
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watch the sheet metal on the driver's side frame, most cars are real close at that point, you can bend the flange very easily if need be
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Old May 10, 2007 | 09:39 AM
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Don't worry, the install will go fairly well. Its not easy, but I did it by myself. The passengers side goes in from the top, need to take off the coil packs and valve cover. And it is tight getting past the starter, but just play with it. The drivers side, unhook everthing in the ls1how to and get the car about 20 inches off the ground and just play around with it. Take it easy with the bolts for the manifold, unhook the AIR tube and brake vac line for better access. The last thing you want to do is to break a header bolt.

I hope you got the whole kit with the cats and x-pipe.

I'm having issues with the O2s, I melted a wire. Get some header wrap and either wrap the headers and collecors or wrap the O2 wire. I did not and now I have to buy new O2s.

Good luck, it can be done by one person, but having some help should make it go eaiser.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 09:43 AM
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Just saw you have a 2000, did you get the new AIR tube? Its a PIA to install. It may be better to just modify the old one, cut it and splice in some high temp hose. If you do install the new AIR tube, the bolt on the back of the drivers side head is next to impossible to get at. Wish someone would have told me to not bother hooking it back up, the tube will stay in place with out it. I'm doing my heads right now and it was still a pain gettting that bolt off. I'm going to just bend the tab out of the way and let it hang.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 10:03 AM
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http://www.cajundude.com/longtubes.htm

between ls1tech.com and these instructions even i didn't goon it up

I drilled holes in the tunnel plate and ran O2 wires above it to keep away from heat.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 10:51 AM
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You got instructions!!?? I'm jealous!! My street series headers came with no instructions. I tore up two of the chincy clamps they gave me, and I called and asked LG if they could provide torque specs or something to help me out. LG admitted the clamps were crap, and sent me four new clamps from their race series headers, which were much better.

After firing it up, I found that there were some leaks, and I loosened the clamps to make adjustments, and found that the two original clamps I left on are stripped. My leaks aren't too bad now that I have used some RVT sealant, but I'm going to have to buy some new clamps to use when I have to take the headers off to change the clutch out. Good luck, and be careful with those chincy clamps!
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Old May 10, 2007 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kilrb
You got instructions!!?? I'm jealous!! My street series headers came with no instructions. I tore up two of the chincy clamps they gave me, and I called and asked LG if they could provide torque specs or something to help me out. LG admitted the clamps were crap, and sent me four new clamps from their race series headers, which were much better.
Don't use the cheap clamps they provide -- spring for Torctites (or similar). Another $70 bucks (for all six) but worth the money.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 10:22 PM
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Make sure the front end is up really high to get the drivers side in, I didnt have a lift and it was VERY scary! Good Luck!
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Old May 11, 2007 | 08:50 AM
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I ended up having to loosen both of the engine mounts nd piviting the engine from one side to another by jacking on either side of the oil pan. We placed a phone book in between the jack and the pan to distribute the load. The jack was placed on the drivers side of the pan to get the engine to rotate that way the full weight of the engine is distrinuted between the passenger side motor mount and side of the CAST oil pan. You can only move it about 3/4". don't just jack it 3/4" do it slowly and listen to make sure your not crunching anything behind the engine and into the fire wall.

O yeah BTW "drops right in"

You'll get it, best of luck.

BTW Get some 20 inch jack stands from sears and don't risk your life.

Last edited by dmiz0420; May 11, 2007 at 08:59 AM.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 12:04 AM
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Just wanted to say THANKS to all those that have replied . Printed out both write up's which will help a lot. The clamps they gave me look good, I'll see how they work. Sure like the looks of the system and quality. I have a lift which should make it easier. Again thanks for the input, forum is a great place.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 07:24 PM
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ok i just got done removing all the old exhaust stuff off my 97' and dropped in the pass side header....Do i need the airtubes? can i just block it off? also my kit did not come with the rear adapters they cam with extenders for the front one's i'm assuming they will work the same way ?
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