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Bleeding brakes with engine on?

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Old May 12, 2007 | 11:27 PM
  #1  
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Burning Brakes
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Default Bleeding brakes with engine on?

I was reading all of the old brake bleeding threads and I came across one where the guy said he bleed the system with the engine on so the brakes are fully functioning. That was the only thread that I read that said anything about the engine running but several threads referred to needing the Tech 2 and its hard to bleed the ABS system. A few also said they had problems after bleeding normally and some members point out the ABS system was at fault.

I planed on bleeding my system Sunday morning. I have bleed 10+ NON abs systems but I don’t want to screw anything up. I also plan on installing my speed bleeders that I bought last year for this procedure - so I hope this help this proceedure esp. since I plan on doing it myself.

Any thoughts or comments?

Should I bleed the entire sytem and then turn the engine on and bleed just one wheel to avoid ABS pump problems? I cannot see laying under a running car - not to mention the heat melting/ burning me.
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Old May 13, 2007 | 12:03 AM
  #2  
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Default Brake bleeding

I bleed my brakes as soon as the fluid starts to look crappy. I use both methods.

1. Engine off, pump pedal to eliminate residual vacuum.

A. Old method, using a one man bleeder and an automatic reservoir refiller, bleed caliper by caliper until fluid is clear, RR,LR, RF, LF

B. Pressure bleeder: Set MC pressure @ 10 PSI, Bleed RR,LR,RF,LF

Go out and activate the ABS a few times and repeat the above procedeure.

Has worked fine for me

Rgds,

RG
AZ
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Old May 14, 2007 | 02:23 PM
  #3  
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I wouldn't bleed the system with the engine running, it's
too easy to damage the master cylinder. Just do your usual
bleed - it might not get every last drop of old fluid out of
the ABS pump, but you'll still replace 90% of the old fluid.
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Old May 14, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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dont run ur engine
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Old May 14, 2007 | 02:45 PM
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Running your engine does nothing to operate the brakes, it only provides vacuum to the booster, so??? no reason to run the engine.

I have the service manual and have followed the procedure to pressure bleed the brake system, following this procedure does not call for a tech II, I've done it a number of times and have never experienced a problem.

Also, in the factory service manual, the order in which the brakes are bled is different than other vehicles you may have done in the past, I don't know why but the order is right rear, left front, left rear and right front so your actually bleeding in a X or cross pattern.
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Old May 14, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by runamuk
Running your engine does nothing to operate the brakes, it only provides vacuum to the booster, so??? no reason to run the engine.

I have the service manual and have followed the procedure to pressure bleed the brake system, following this procedure does not call for a tech II, I've done it a number of times and have never experienced a problem.

Also, in the factory service manual, the order in which the brakes are bled is different than other vehicles you may have done in the past, I don't know why but the order is right rear, left front, left rear and right front so your actually bleeding in a X or cross pattern.


Ok, Thats what I thought but with the ABS pump I was not sure. I will do a manual bleed sometime soon and I did notice the x patter for bleeding (kinda strange - but will do it this way as well).

I did read a few threads were a few members had problems that sounded like it was related to the ABS pump. Several members suggested finding a empty road and testing the abs at a lower speed (30 or 40 mph or so). Should I do this anyway or just if brakes dont feel right?
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Old May 14, 2007 | 06:50 PM
  #7  
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The order for bleeding brakes depends upon the year of your C5. Early years had the ABS module at the rear of the car, later years have it under the hood (in the front).
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Old May 14, 2007 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JEEP/C5
Ok, Thats what I thought but with the ABS pump I was not sure. I will do a manual bleed sometime soon and I did notice the x patter for bleeding (kinda strange - but will do it this way as well).

I did read a few threads were a few members had problems that sounded like it was related to the ABS pump. Several members suggested finding a empty road and testing the abs at a lower speed (30 or 40 mph or so). Should I do this anyway or just if brakes dont feel right?
I've done 3 cars so far where I flushed the stock fluid and replaced it with Ford Blue for road racing, my current project is a complete rebuild and I've replaced both the EBCM and the BPMV, I bled the system just like I described above but have not had a chance to check it out yet, hopefully in a couple more weeks I'll be driving the car and I'll let you know if I have any problems with that procedure.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 12:17 AM
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Here is the bleeding procedure for a 2001 and up car:

Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding Pressure
Tools Required
J 29532 Diaphragm Type Brake Pressure Bleeder, or equivalent
J 35589-A Master Cylinder Bleeder Adapter

Caution
1. Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.

4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
5. Install the J 35589-A to the brake master cylinder reservoir.
6. Check the brake fluid level in the J 29532 , or equivalent. Add Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container as necessary to bring the level to approximately the half-full point.
7. Connect the J 29532 , or equivalent, to the J 35589-A .
8. Charge the J 29532 , or equivalent, air tank to 175-205 kPa (25-30 psi).
9. Open the J 29532 , or equivalent, fluid tank valve to allow pressurized brake fluid to enter the brake system.
10. Wait approximately 30 seconds, then inspect the entire hydraulic brake system in order to ensure that there are no existing external brake fluid leaks. Any brake fluid leaks identified require repair prior to completing this procedure.
11. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
12. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
13. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
14. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit. Allow fluid to flow until air bubbles stop flowing from the bleeder, then tighten the bleeder valve.
15. With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
16. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 13-14.
17. With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
18. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 13-14.
19. With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve
20. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 13-14.
21. After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
22. Close the J 29532 , or equivalent, fluid tank valve, then disconnect the J 29532 , or equivalent, from the J 35589-A .
23. Remove the J 35589-A from the brake master cylinder reservoir.
24. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
25. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.

Important
If it is determined that air was induced into the system upstream of the ABS modulator prior to servicing, the ABS Automated Bleed Procedure must be performed.


26. If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the following steps:
Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection .
Using a scan tool, perform the antilock brake system automated bleeding procedure to remove any air that may have been trapped in the BPMV. Refer to ABS Automated Bleed Procedure in Antilock Brake System.



Bill

Last edited by Bill Dearborn; May 15, 2007 at 12:28 AM.
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