When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
By the way. You can prise off the window switch and use the wood handle of a hammer to beat on the inside door frame. The motor is located right there. It takes a lot less beating that way. I have had mine stick twice where I could not beat it to get it working again. I then remove the cover of the motor while it was still in the door and turned the armature a little. I put the cove back on and it worked again.
My theory is that either the brushes are sticking or some form of corrosion builds up between the brush and the armature. Either the beating or the turning of the armature either breaks free the brush or else removes enough of the corrosion to allow it to start working again.
It does seem to be most prevalent on the passenger side which is the least used of the windows.
Where did you buy the motor? I just bought a 99 vette with 3386 miles and the passenger window works off and on. It makes the clicking noise described in this post. I don't like the idea of hitting my vette to make the motor work I will probably replace the motor
Great info - read the whole thread. Based upon this information my guess is that the problem with most of these passenger windows sticking is due to a inferior limit switch design/construction in the motor. If that is the case, purchasing a new motor is just a temporary fix as well unless they either redesign the regulator assy or start installing better limit switches. My guess is that for some reason if the window is left dormant in the full-up (or maybe even the full-down) position for any length of time the armature must slowly drift toward the last limit switch direction just enough to break electrical contact. I think that banging on the door or motor eventually causes the armature to slightly shift allowing the limit switch to disengege and power to the motor is once again restored. It would be very interesting to see the ratio of reported window problems of driver's side vs passenger's side on all C5s produced - that would probably tell for sure if the "dormancy" is a contributing factor (assuming that both motors have been built with the same specs and to the same tolerances). There obviously IS something to the dormancy as my passenger window has been working fine every day since I $itch-slapped it. If I continue operating it every day or so and the problem returns in the next few weeks, then I have to assume that SOME permanent damage was sustained as a result of sitting idle for so long. But I am betting that the real problem is in the limit-swich(s) and my further guess is there is not GOOD fix available.
I would say to try to cheap fix first, but that never worked for me. Here is a very old thread I replied to a few years ago. It details what I did. Ultimately, it cost me $125, but it was much cheaper than the delearship.
Michael Jackson was right! Just had the problem for the first time on my 01 and read this thread. I went out and tried the "beat it" method and walla it worked! Thanks, I will run both windows up and down every time I start it from now on.
Set4ee
My passenger side was coming down only 2 inches, then getting stuck. It would go up again, but on the down stroke, get stuck again.Took the door trim off, and the plastic cover piece. Would you believe the window goes up and down fully with out doing anything else??? As I put it back together, I checked it would go up and down fully, no problems. Drove around the block, and its back to only coming down 2 inches again, but returns to the fully closed position. Couldnt see if there was anything binding up the cables while door trim was off. Will try the whacking with fist as mentioned above. Any other suggestions welcomed.
GM window motors are poor. My '04 needed the passenger side almost when new. I have replaced both motors on my previous Firebird and Camaro. You may want to start shopping around for a deal on the replacement because sooner or later it's going to stop for good.
My 04 window motor was made in Germany by BROSE. When I pulled off the medal cover I found that the brushes were worn. Clean the cover and motor with WD-40 and blow it dry.Worked for me..
Just wish I knew "what" is causing the "bind" in the existing mechanism that a new one would fix. I have never heard of an electric motor "seizing" - burning out "yes" - but obviously the motor is not burned out or beating on the door would not fix it unless it were a loose connection? But if it were a loose connection the switches would not dim when triggered. If it were nylon gear teeth or something getting worn in the up position for prolonged periods it seems like the next time it was in the full up position it would stall again? Since the switch lights would momentarily "dim" when I tried to engage the motor, that indicates to me that the circuit breaker was tripping to protect the circuit. Just never heard of an electric motor that when it failed, you could shake it or beat it into working again? Maybe the gears get out of alignment, but it seems like they would fall right back out of alignment even after on cycle? It just sounds to me like something needs to be lubricated or cleaned downstream of the motor?
I guess one way to test would be to remove the motor/regulator, put it on a bench and let it sit for a while, then fire it up. Then if it worked, it was probably something else in the door not lubricated that caused the problem?
I had the exact same problem on both windows. I took the door panels off and tapped the motor with a mallet while holding down the the switch and it worked! I greased the rails and any other moving part I could reach and both windows have been working perfectly since. I have been told that they tend to stick if not well lubricated.