Stuck-Up Window
#21
Racer
By the way. You can prise off the window switch and use the wood handle of a hammer to beat on the inside door frame. The motor is located right there. It takes a lot less beating that way. I have had mine stick twice where I could not beat it to get it working again. I then remove the cover of the motor while it was still in the door and turned the armature a little. I put the cove back on and it worked again.
My theory is that either the brushes are sticking or some form of corrosion builds up between the brush and the armature. Either the beating or the turning of the armature either breaks free the brush or else removes enough of the corrosion to allow it to start working again.
It does seem to be most prevalent on the passenger side which is the least used of the windows.
Reb
My theory is that either the brushes are sticking or some form of corrosion builds up between the brush and the armature. Either the beating or the turning of the armature either breaks free the brush or else removes enough of the corrosion to allow it to start working again.
It does seem to be most prevalent on the passenger side which is the least used of the windows.
Reb
#22
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Bada bing bada bling FL
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Here's a good write up to fix this problem for good with little money involved:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+to+fix+window
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+to+fix+window
#23
Where did you buy the motor? I just bought a 99 vette with 3386 miles and the passenger window works off and on. It makes the clicking noise described in this post. I don't like the idea of hitting my vette to make the motor work I will probably replace the motor
#24
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Here's a good write up to fix this problem for good with little money involved:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+to+fix+window
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+to+fix+window
#25
I would say to try to cheap fix first, but that never worked for me. Here is a very old thread I replied to a few years ago. It details what I did. Ultimately, it cost me $125, but it was much cheaper than the delearship.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1055835
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1055835
#26
Just beat it!
Michael Jackson was right! Just had the problem for the first time on my 01 and read this thread. I went out and tried the "beat it" method and walla it worked! Thanks, I will run both windows up and down every time I start it from now on.
Set4ee
Set4ee
#27
Intermediate
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: Perth Western Australia
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My passenger side was coming down only 2 inches, then getting stuck. It would go up again, but on the down stroke, get stuck again.Took the door trim off, and the plastic cover piece. Would you believe the window goes up and down fully with out doing anything else??? As I put it back together, I checked it would go up and down fully, no problems. Drove around the block, and its back to only coming down 2 inches again, but returns to the fully closed position. Couldnt see if there was anything binding up the cables while door trim was off. Will try the whacking with fist as mentioned above. Any other suggestions welcomed.
Eric
Eric
#28
Instructor
My 04 window motor was made in Germany by BROSE. When I pulled off the medal cover I found that the brushes were worn. Clean the cover and motor with WD-40 and blow it dry.Worked for me..
#29
Just wish I knew "what" is causing the "bind" in the existing mechanism that a new one would fix. I have never heard of an electric motor "seizing" - burning out "yes" - but obviously the motor is not burned out or beating on the door would not fix it unless it were a loose connection? But if it were a loose connection the switches would not dim when triggered. If it were nylon gear teeth or something getting worn in the up position for prolonged periods it seems like the next time it was in the full up position it would stall again? Since the switch lights would momentarily "dim" when I tried to engage the motor, that indicates to me that the circuit breaker was tripping to protect the circuit. Just never heard of an electric motor that when it failed, you could shake it or beat it into working again? Maybe the gears get out of alignment, but it seems like they would fall right back out of alignment even after on cycle? It just sounds to me like something needs to be lubricated or cleaned downstream of the motor?
I guess one way to test would be to remove the motor/regulator, put it on a bench and let it sit for a while, then fire it up. Then if it worked, it was probably something else in the door not lubricated that caused the problem?
I guess one way to test would be to remove the motor/regulator, put it on a bench and let it sit for a while, then fire it up. Then if it worked, it was probably something else in the door not lubricated that caused the problem?