Choreo

I noticed today that the passenger side window is stuck in the full UP position. If I press the window up/down switch on either door the door control panel lights dim for a second, but nothing happens. The Owners Manual says the windows are protected by a circuit breaker. Does this mean I have a bad motor?

All other door operations work such as door locks.

I admit that I probably only have lowered the right window maybe once a year for the past 6 years. So if the motor is bad it is not from over use.

tstar

Try the Fonz method before you tear the door apart... Slam the door while holding the Pass Window Down button on the driver's side.

trussme

....YES, you must lower & raise that passenger window every time you drive it (a couple times) to keep the motor from "seizing-up"...but NOW, here's the proven method for un-sticking it: key on, while pressing & holding down the passenger-side power window control...take the heel of your fist and sharply beat repeatedly on top of the molded DOOR HANDLE (not the door latch)....this has worked for me on 5 different occasions.... Good Luck! Bill

corvettedoug

SteveDoten

I just swapped out a pass window motor/reg assy on Sunday, they are a common fail item

westez

Mine has not worked for a month or so. Feeling lucky, beat on it, works fine now.....Thanks for the tip....Punishment does work.....

JWB ZO6

At least they seem to get stuck in the up position.

c3andc5

The key thing to take away from this is the last sentence. "this has worked for me on 5 different occasions." Meaning, this is not a fix and is only temporary. You will soon, like me, have to replace your motor/regulator assembly. I did it myself for the cost of the part ($230). No more slamming or beating on the door to unstick the motor.
Good luck!

Choreo

I'll be damned - that worked after about 50 hits - almost gave up! First time I was ever guilty of "Corvette-Abuse". Sort of reminded me of "What do you tell a woman with two black eyes"? "Nothing", she has already been told twice. (apparently twice is not always enough)

What I don't understand is why this is only considered a "temporary" fix? Since the motor and gears are obviously now working - I don't understand? I realize if I now revert to my same habits of operating the window only on occasion it will seize up again, but even if I put in a new motor assy and don't operate the window regularly it seems like it would soon display the same bahavior? No? In my mind the motor either works or it doesn't and apparently the "motor" is fine - just getting too much resistance from what it is trying to move - right? ...and the resistance is being caused by the mechanism remaining dormant for periods of time - right? What am I missing?

Thanks for the tip!!!

trussme

You Got it! ...."down & up, every time you start ...or, at least once a week"... btw, who needs a passenger window anyway?

c3andc5

Good for you. Maybe my window was just particularly stubborn because it didn't seem to mind how much I exercised it. It seized up anyway. Seems to be a lot of other guys in the same boat. Let me know when you get tired of banging on your door next time it happens to yours. I'll send you procedures to replace your motor/regulator.

Nick1

GM window motors are poor. My '04 needed the passenger side almost when new. I have replaced both motors on my previous Firebird and Camaro. You may want to start shopping around for a deal on the replacement because sooner or later it's going to stop for good.

Choreo

Just wish I knew "what" is causing the "bind" in the existing mechanism that a new one would fix. I have never heard of an electric motor "seizing" - burning out "yes" - but obviously the motor is not burned out or beating on the door would not fix it unless it were a loose connection? But if it were a loose connection the switches would not dim when triggered. If it were nylon gear teeth or something getting worn in the up position for prolonged periods it seems like the next time it was in the full up position it would stall again? Since the switch lights would momentarily "dim" when I tried to engage the motor, that indicates to me that the circuit breaker was tripping to protect the circuit. Just never heard of an electric motor that when it failed, you could shake it or beat it into working again? Maybe the gears get out of alignment, but it seems like they would fall right back out of alignment even after on cycle? It just sounds to me like something needs to be lubricated or cleaned downstream of the motor?

I guess one way to test would be to remove the motor/regulator, put it on a bench and let it sit for a while, then fire it up. Then if it worked, it was probably something else in the door not lubricated that caused the problem?

trussme

Kinda Makes You Wish for The Good Ole Days....when you could hand crank them windows UP & Down....?

1B.DZ

I think the seizing has something to do with the brushes on the inside. Mine has stuck ever since I bought her back in Nov. I tried the "hold and beat" technique and it has worked every time except once, screwdriver wasn't big enough. The only thing I do differently is I take the door panel off and beat directly on the motor. Less chance of messing the door panel up, especially with my luck. I can get these door panels off and on in less than 5 minutes. As soon as mine quits for good, I'm going to take it apart and examine it. As of right now, the last beating was about 2-1/2 weeks ago and it has worked solid ever since.

Josh

Choreo

I don't mind buying a new motor, but if it is the same crap, why bother? I have used my driver's window nearly every day with no problems in 7 years (so far). Are we saying that it is just the passenger side motors that are bad? I have probably cycled my drivers window 3,000 times without a hang and my passenger side maybe 75 cycles? If a new motor is only going to last 75 cycles what is the point.

Also, I assume this is covered on my extended GMPP?

c3andc5

Well mine is a 2000 and the passenger window motor didn't start failing until 2006. I don't know why only the passenger side did this, but I've read lots of theories on this forum. I tend to believe the "cheap factory motor" theory more then the others. Bottom line is I'm very glad that I replaced it and time will tell how long this one lasts.

1B.DZ

I completely understand where you are coming from. If you only use XX times and it breaks, what keeps it from breaking the next time if you continue to use it at the same rate? It doesn't make any sense to me either, that's why I haven't bought a new one yet. I'd hate to spend the 2 or 3 hundred on a new motor assembly just to have it start acting up in the same manner.

Are the new assemblies made any different than the stock units, anybody? Did they address this problem and fix it?

Thanks,

Josh

Nick 02 Z06

Haha! It worked.

Bluefire

It worked for me too ~8 months ago! Now I run it up/down about once a week. No more problems.