Electrical woes
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: yorktown virginia
Electrical woes
O-K ill try to make this a short read.
Problem Type:Intermittent
Problem : "charge system fault"; voltage will go beserker high, low, etc. problem happens anytime anywhere but usually corrects itself within 30 seconds of beginning.
Possible solutions attempted: Tighten/clean battery terminals, clean grounds and ground plugs for the chassis grounds directly aft of the headlights, and the ground under the battery. also replaced alternator (it is the correct one).
Problems stemming from attempt to fix: One headlight is now that ugly brownish color, passenger side to be specific. i.e. not getting proper voltage. when high beams are cut on, that headlight completely shuts off. also, fog lights will not turn on if headlights are up.
---AND----
problem type: Intermittent
Problem: Turn signal/ driving light will not come on. Every week or so either my right front or left front turn signal will stop working. after a few days it will come back and work just fine. with the headlights off, the turn signal that isnt working in the front, wont light up for its daytime running function.
Solutions attempted: New bulbs, replacing 4way flasher switch in dash
I cant help but feel these problems are intertwined with each other. if anyone here can help it would be GREATLY appreciated. One of you electrical gurus I suppose.. thank you so much for the help guys.
Problem Type:Intermittent
Problem : "charge system fault"; voltage will go beserker high, low, etc. problem happens anytime anywhere but usually corrects itself within 30 seconds of beginning.
Possible solutions attempted: Tighten/clean battery terminals, clean grounds and ground plugs for the chassis grounds directly aft of the headlights, and the ground under the battery. also replaced alternator (it is the correct one).
Problems stemming from attempt to fix: One headlight is now that ugly brownish color, passenger side to be specific. i.e. not getting proper voltage. when high beams are cut on, that headlight completely shuts off. also, fog lights will not turn on if headlights are up.
---AND----
problem type: Intermittent
Problem: Turn signal/ driving light will not come on. Every week or so either my right front or left front turn signal will stop working. after a few days it will come back and work just fine. with the headlights off, the turn signal that isnt working in the front, wont light up for its daytime running function.
Solutions attempted: New bulbs, replacing 4way flasher switch in dash
I cant help but feel these problems are intertwined with each other. if anyone here can help it would be GREATLY appreciated. One of you electrical gurus I suppose.. thank you so much for the help guys.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,488
Likes: 1,743
From: Knoxville Tn
You might want to check the voltagethe battery is putting out under a load. Most car parts places can check this for you and it's usually free. While there have them check you alternator. Cleaning all the grounds is agreat place to start. I suspect a battery problem or a charging problem.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,586
Likes: 2
From: Bardstown Kentucky
Strangely enough I have had this problem, not exact but heres what fixed mine.
1.- Loosen, clean, and re-tighten the ground in the rear behind the drivers side rear wheel. Its a small nut holding a ground on the frame, 10mm will do the trick.
2.- Spray down the ground connector studs on both sides behind the headlights with WD40 or equivalent. Remove the nuts and clean the nuts and studs. Disassemble the clip and make sure all connections are good and clean. Reassemble
3.- Check the positive and negative cables. By check I mean take them off the battery, remove the screws that go into the battery and pull the rubber cover off. Corrosion will build up under that rubber cover. Then make sure the end isn't worn down, there will be 4 little spikes on the end, if they have worn flat they will not dig into the battery post. You can take needlenose and bend those little flaps back out.
Hope this helps!
1.- Loosen, clean, and re-tighten the ground in the rear behind the drivers side rear wheel. Its a small nut holding a ground on the frame, 10mm will do the trick.
2.- Spray down the ground connector studs on both sides behind the headlights with WD40 or equivalent. Remove the nuts and clean the nuts and studs. Disassemble the clip and make sure all connections are good and clean. Reassemble
3.- Check the positive and negative cables. By check I mean take them off the battery, remove the screws that go into the battery and pull the rubber cover off. Corrosion will build up under that rubber cover. Then make sure the end isn't worn down, there will be 4 little spikes on the end, if they have worn flat they will not dig into the battery post. You can take needlenose and bend those little flaps back out.
Hope this helps!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Theres a ground "SPLICE PACK" (SP) in the front facia area. That (SP) contains the ground wires for all the front lights and electrical stuff in the front of the car. Remove the white or grey plug From the end of the SP Connector and see what the pins look like inside the connector. Clean and reinstall. There is also one behind the battery area. It has a bad tendency to go **** up if the battery has ever had any leakage but its a good idea to check it any how.
Even though you have checked your battery terminals,,, there still could be a possibility that one or both of the terminals could be bad. The wires are crimped on to the terminals and I have seem the crimp get corroded and the area where the terminal screw goes through the terminal end be corroded and nasty.
When I do battery terminal maintenance, I wire brush the terminal ends and battery terminals, then flush the terminals out with brake parts cleaner. You will be amazed at what gets flushed out. Follow that up with a WD-40 flush and torque the terminals back on to 11 ft/lbs.
BC
Even though you have checked your battery terminals,,, there still could be a possibility that one or both of the terminals could be bad. The wires are crimped on to the terminals and I have seem the crimp get corroded and the area where the terminal screw goes through the terminal end be corroded and nasty.
When I do battery terminal maintenance, I wire brush the terminal ends and battery terminals, then flush the terminals out with brake parts cleaner. You will be amazed at what gets flushed out. Follow that up with a WD-40 flush and torque the terminals back on to 11 ft/lbs.
BC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: yorktown virginia
thanks for all the info guys, I will check these things and get back with you ASAP.
Bill, the splice pack you are referring to, is it the same as the ground connectors directly aft of the headlights on each side? or is there some main plug/connector ive yet to see. pics and or diagram would really help. THANKS!
Bill, the splice pack you are referring to, is it the same as the ground connectors directly aft of the headlights on each side? or is there some main plug/connector ive yet to see. pics and or diagram would really help. THANKS!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
thanks for all the info guys, I will check these things and get back with you ASAP.
Bill, the splice pack you are referring to, is it the same as the ground connectors directly aft of the headlights on each side? or is there some main plug/connector ive yet to see. pics and or diagram would really help. THANKS!
Bill, the splice pack you are referring to, is it the same as the ground connectors directly aft of the headlights on each side? or is there some main plug/connector ive yet to see. pics and or diagram would really help. THANKS!
Yep,,they look different in that they dont have the ground tab.
This is the chassis ground connecter that you were refering to:
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 16, 2007 at 05:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: yorktown virginia
youll either have to drill it out and tap the hole for another bolt. or drill it out and use a self-tapping screw. check out the electrical sticky on the top of the page.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Heeee heeeee,,,been there, done that!
Not to worry! Grind the area flat, center punch the area to be drilled and drill a hole for a stainless steel self tapping screw. Home Depot, lowells, ACE Hardware all have them!
It will be JUST AS GOOD as the stud that you broke!
BC
BC
Not to worry! Grind the area flat, center punch the area to be drilled and drill a hole for a stainless steel self tapping screw. Home Depot, lowells, ACE Hardware all have them!It will be JUST AS GOOD as the stud that you broke!
BC
BC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: yorktown virginia
****UPDATE**** Both the battery and alternator tested good on and off of the car. However, at night I can still tell that the voltage regulator is "doing its thing" because my lights flicker a bit and i can hear the differences in pitch of the fuel pump. also, my turn signal went out yesterday morning, AGAIN and all i did was reverse out of my driveway. bill, i didnt see that splice pack, you said it was in the front fascia area correct? did you have to remove the stock airbox to locate it?
