How to unplug a fuse ? please...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: The wrong side of the Atlantic ocean
How to unplug a fuse ? please...
Hi Guys,
I've just bought my first C5 today and I drove it home today (a nice 600 mile trip). The weather was great so it was a fun trip.
The bad thing is that I got the ABS/AH/TC service message when I shut the engine down after 300 miles...I tried to pull off the ABS fuse in order to see if it was blown up but I couldn't
Those f.....g fuse seem to be sealed with cement in the box.
Is there a trick or something so I can pull off the fuses and what else should I check to troubleshoot my problem.
I don't believe there's a problem with the ABS or AH or TC system cause they've all failed together...and I've never seen 3 systems failing at the same time unless a common parts has failed.
Thanks for your feedback.
Greg
I've just bought my first C5 today and I drove it home today (a nice 600 mile trip). The weather was great so it was a fun trip.
The bad thing is that I got the ABS/AH/TC service message when I shut the engine down after 300 miles...I tried to pull off the ABS fuse in order to see if it was blown up but I couldn't
Those f.....g fuse seem to be sealed with cement in the box.Is there a trick or something so I can pull off the fuses and what else should I check to troubleshoot my problem.
I don't believe there's a problem with the ABS or AH or TC system cause they've all failed together...and I've never seen 3 systems failing at the same time unless a common parts has failed.
Thanks for your feedback.
Greg
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Greg
The best thing that you can do to start the troubleshooting process is read the DTC codes:
Here is how:
This is the absolute best C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) web site!!!
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html
Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\
Here is another very good site:
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Write down and post your DTC’s Then clear them ALL!
Sound effects are cool too!
The fuses and relays can get embeded in the scokets. If you rock them they will come out.
Post your DTC and see what they tell us.
BC
The best thing that you can do to start the troubleshooting process is read the DTC codes:
Here is how:
This is the absolute best C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) web site!!!
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html
Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\
Here is another very good site:
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Write down and post your DTC’s Then clear them ALL!
Sound effects are cool too!
The fuses and relays can get embeded in the scokets. If you rock them they will come out.
Post your DTC and see what they tell us.
BC
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 256
Likes: 1
From: Delta BC
There is usually a fuse puller in the fuse box, a white thing that you can use that to pull the fuse. Alternatively you can check the suspect fuse in two ways with it plugged in (with a multimeter):
1) set the meter to check continuity or resistance and on the top of the fuse you will see a couple of metal tabs which you hook up the leads of your meter to, if it shows little resistance or no shows continuity your fuse is good
2) set the meter to voltage and measure the voltage from chassis ground to one tab and then the other. This ensures that there is a voltage on either side, however you do need to know if the circuit is energized at all times because if it is not then you would get a 0 reading as well.
1) set the meter to check continuity or resistance and on the top of the fuse you will see a couple of metal tabs which you hook up the leads of your meter to, if it shows little resistance or no shows continuity your fuse is good
2) set the meter to voltage and measure the voltage from chassis ground to one tab and then the other. This ensures that there is a voltage on either side, however you do need to know if the circuit is energized at all times because if it is not then you would get a 0 reading as well.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: The wrong side of the Atlantic ocean
Thanks guys,
First of all, when I turned the car up this morning the failure was gone...I drove the car and 30 minutes and 2 starts later the failure did appear again and...disappear.
I then did a diagnostic which throw out a lot off history codes...the only one that was current was the C2100 CH which I couldn't retrieve in the list provided by corvettedoctor.
Any inputs?
Thnks
Greg
First of all, when I turned the car up this morning the failure was gone...I drove the car and 30 minutes and 2 starts later the failure did appear again and...disappear.
I then did a diagnostic which throw out a lot off history codes...the only one that was current was the C2100 CH which I couldn't retrieve in the list provided by corvettedoctor.
Any inputs?
Thnks
Greg
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
There is usually a fuse puller in the fuse box, a white thing that you can use that to pull the fuse. Alternatively you can check the suspect fuse in two ways with it plugged in (with a multimeter):
1) set the meter to check continuity or resistance and on the top of the fuse you will see a couple of metal tabs which you hook up the leads of your meter to, if it shows little resistance or no shows continuity your fuse is good
2) set the meter to voltage and measure the voltage from chassis ground to one tab and then the other. This ensures that there is a voltage on either side, however you do need to know if the circuit is energized at all times because if it is not then you would get a 0 reading as well.
1) set the meter to check continuity or resistance and on the top of the fuse you will see a couple of metal tabs which you hook up the leads of your meter to, if it shows little resistance or no shows continuity your fuse is good
2) set the meter to voltage and measure the voltage from chassis ground to one tab and then the other. This ensures that there is a voltage on either side, however you do need to know if the circuit is energized at all times because if it is not then you would get a 0 reading as well.
Manraj
If you use these troubleshooting techniques, you need to keep in mind, if the circuit that the fuse under test,, is energized or not. If you read across a blown fuse with an ohm meter and the circuit is energized, voltage will flow through the ohm meter. That could damage the meter!
You can also use a volt meter to test a fuse by reading across it. (If the circuit is energized) place a volt meter on the two test points on the fuse. If you read 12 VDC,,the fuse is open (blown). If you read zero VDC, the fuse is good.
This test will not work on a circuit that is not energized. Then you should use a volt meter.
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 256
Likes: 1
From: Delta BC
Manraj
If you use these troubleshooting techniques, you need to keep in mind, if the circuit that the fuse under test,, is energized or not. If you read across a blown fuse with an ohm meter and the circuit is energized, voltage will flow through the ohm meter. That could damage the meter!
You can also use a volt meter to test a fuse by reading across it. (If the circuit is energized) place a volt meter on the two test points on the fuse. If you read 12 VDC,,the fuse is open (blown). If you read zero VDC, the fuse is good. This test will not work on a circuit that is not energized. Then you should use a volt meter.
If you use these troubleshooting techniques, you need to keep in mind, if the circuit that the fuse under test,, is energized or not. If you read across a blown fuse with an ohm meter and the circuit is energized, voltage will flow through the ohm meter. That could damage the meter!
You can also use a volt meter to test a fuse by reading across it. (If the circuit is energized) place a volt meter on the two test points on the fuse. If you read 12 VDC,,the fuse is open (blown). If you read zero VDC, the fuse is good.
This test will not work on a circuit that is not energized. Then you should use a volt meter.Bill correct me if I am wrong, but what you are saying is:
If you are going to test by using the multimeter to check continuity, you want to ensure that the circuit is not energized which is most likely when the car is off
I am not quite sure what you meant by "This test will not work on a circuit that is not energized. Then you should use a volt meter", can you clarify, did you mean to say that you would have to check continuity?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Multimeter refers to a meter that has VOLT, OHMS & Current reading capability. When you use the ohm meter the circuit must me dead or de-energized.
When you use the voltmeter to check for continuity, the circuit MUST be energized or ON. If you use the volt meter to read across the fuse, if the fuse is OPEN (blown) you will read voltage!
BC
When you use the voltmeter to check for continuity, the circuit MUST be energized or ON. If you use the volt meter to read across the fuse, if the fuse is OPEN (blown) you will read voltage!
BC
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,933
Likes: 30
From: San Rafael CA
Post the codes and someone can help you from there.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: The wrong side of the Atlantic ocean
Ok here are the codes :
10 - PCM : NO CODES
28 - TCS : U1301H
40 - BCM : NO CODES
58 - SDM : U1000H U1301H U1040H U1064H
60 - IPC : U1255H
80 - RADIO : U1064H U1016H U1096H
99 - HVAC : NO CODES
A0 - LDCM : B2252H B2282H B2284H U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A1 - RDCM : B2283H B2285H U1064H U1016H
A6 - SCM : U1300H U1255H
B0 - RFA : C2100HC U1000H U1255H U1064H U1096H U1016H
There is only one current code which is C2100HC, I've then cleared them all.
Any idea?
Thx
Greg
10 - PCM : NO CODES
28 - TCS : U1301H
40 - BCM : NO CODES
58 - SDM : U1000H U1301H U1040H U1064H
60 - IPC : U1255H
80 - RADIO : U1064H U1016H U1096H
99 - HVAC : NO CODES
A0 - LDCM : B2252H B2282H B2284H U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A1 - RDCM : B2283H B2285H U1064H U1016H
A6 - SCM : U1300H U1255H
B0 - RFA : C2100HC U1000H U1255H U1064H U1096H U1016H
There is only one current code which is C2100HC, I've then cleared them all.
Any idea?
Thx
Greg
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 1
From: Littleton Colorado
Try cleaning up the ground points in the engine compartment. They may look ok, but it doesn't hurt to clean them up. I had some intermitent ABS codes (wheel speed sensor codes) and they went a way after cleaning the grounds.
Do a search on it, I think it could also be a sticky at the top of the forum here...
Do a search on it, I think it could also be a sticky at the top of the forum here...
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,933
Likes: 30
From: San Rafael CA
Ok here are the codes :
10 - PCM : NO CODES
28 - TCS : U1301H
40 - BCM : NO CODES
58 - SDM : U1000H U1301H U1040H U1064H
60 - IPC : U1255H
80 - RADIO : U1064H U1016H U1096H
99 - HVAC : NO CODES
A0 - LDCM : B2252H B2282H B2284H U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A1 - RDCM : B2283H B2285H U1064H U1016H
A6 - SCM : U1300H U1255H
B0 - RFA : C2100HC U1000H U1255H U1064H U1096H U1016H
There is only one current code which is C2100HC, I've then cleared them all.
Any idea?
Thx
Greg
10 - PCM : NO CODES
28 - TCS : U1301H
40 - BCM : NO CODES
58 - SDM : U1000H U1301H U1040H U1064H
60 - IPC : U1255H
80 - RADIO : U1064H U1016H U1096H
99 - HVAC : NO CODES
A0 - LDCM : B2252H B2282H B2284H U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A1 - RDCM : B2283H B2285H U1064H U1016H
A6 - SCM : U1300H U1255H
B0 - RFA : C2100HC U1000H U1255H U1064H U1096H U1016H
There is only one current code which is C2100HC, I've then cleared them all.
Any idea?
Thx
Greg
The Service Manual recommends, in the absence of other symptoms, to ignore and delete Uxxxx codes.
The C2100 is "C2100 Left Front TPM Sensor Malfunction" so you should be getting a "Service TPM" message at vehicle start on your DIC.
Surprising that there are no TCS codes, as one would expect the system to post a code when you get the "Service ABS/TC ... etc" DIC messages.
With ALL codes cleared, drive the car until you get the "SERVICE" message again, and then dump the codes. If there are still no TCS codes, I'd read the sticky at the top of this forum about electrical issues and how to clean the various ground points on the vehicle. If you get new codes, post them here.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I have a 2014 corvette C7 Z51 and facing the same issue.
my radio screen went black couple weeks ago. first it started with clock disappeared from the display and audio stopped playing, However the HVAC controls continue to respond. Radio screen (Navigation screen) went off (all black) also physical radio controls (volume, home, back, etc) below are dead.
I have tried most of the options suggested in the forum like taking the fuse 22 out and put it back, checked if there is any loose connectors with HMI, also I have ordered a new Radio screen unit and replaced it, even after replacing the screen is all black dead.
I am about to order a HMI to see if that helps with this issue, but wanted to see if anyone had this issue and changing HMI fixed it.
Also I want to see if you think buying this new HMI is a reasonable approach or shall I take it to a dealer and have them diagnose the issue at this point ?
I really appreciate any help or guidance from anyone
my radio screen went black couple weeks ago. first it started with clock disappeared from the display and audio stopped playing, However the HVAC controls continue to respond. Radio screen (Navigation screen) went off (all black) also physical radio controls (volume, home, back, etc) below are dead.
I have tried most of the options suggested in the forum like taking the fuse 22 out and put it back, checked if there is any loose connectors with HMI, also I have ordered a new Radio screen unit and replaced it, even after replacing the screen is all black dead.
I am about to order a HMI to see if that helps with this issue, but wanted to see if anyone had this issue and changing HMI fixed it.
Also I want to see if you think buying this new HMI is a reasonable approach or shall I take it to a dealer and have them diagnose the issue at this point ?
I really appreciate any help or guidance from anyone
