Catch Can Temperature Observations
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 161
From: PNW
Catch Can Temperature Observations
There was some talk a while ago about trying to thermally isolate the mounting bracket for the catch cans that mount to the RH head to help keep the catch can cool.
After driving about 25 highway miles (with gives best engine bay airflow), I popped the hood on my Z06 and felt the catch can ... it was real hot. I also noticed that both hoses going to the catch can were very hot. Other vacuum hoses in the engine bay weren't nearly as hot as the catch can hoses ... the reason being is that hot crankcase gasses are sucked through these hoses and catch can, which are a big contribution to heating them up.
If the catch can mounting bracket could be thermally isolated from the head, then it's likely it would still run pretty hot due to the hot crankcase gasses flowing through it.
Has anyone else check how hot their catch can and its hoses are after a long highway drive?
After driving about 25 highway miles (with gives best engine bay airflow), I popped the hood on my Z06 and felt the catch can ... it was real hot. I also noticed that both hoses going to the catch can were very hot. Other vacuum hoses in the engine bay weren't nearly as hot as the catch can hoses ... the reason being is that hot crankcase gasses are sucked through these hoses and catch can, which are a big contribution to heating them up.
If the catch can mounting bracket could be thermally isolated from the head, then it's likely it would still run pretty hot due to the hot crankcase gasses flowing through it.
Has anyone else check how hot their catch can and its hoses are after a long highway drive?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 6
From: Sahuarita AZ
I couldn't remove my catch can after a short drive. I'm more concerned with the catch can rubbing the coolant hose. Have you thought about using the header wrap material on the mating surface of the bracket to the head?
Are you using an elite engineering can?
Are you using an elite engineering can?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I mounted my AMW up front on the inside of the frame rail forward of the hood hinge. Longer hoses (3/8" ID fuel hose); good to go.
Patches has his set-up this way. That's where I originally got the idea.
"Hot" or "cold" can be relative terms however. The only (minor) drawback to having the can forward is that I sometimes get a small amount of water in the can along with oil. I pull my can, drain it then clean it out every 3000 mi. Usually has 2 oz. of oil and maybe a tablespoon or two of water (in the cooler months of the year).
Robert
Patches has his set-up this way. That's where I originally got the idea.
"Hot" or "cold" can be relative terms however. The only (minor) drawback to having the can forward is that I sometimes get a small amount of water in the can along with oil. I pull my can, drain it then clean it out every 3000 mi. Usually has 2 oz. of oil and maybe a tablespoon or two of water (in the cooler months of the year).
Robert
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Hatfield PA
I'm not quite understanding the reason you're worried about the temperature of a catch-can. About the hose prematurely decomposing?
I work on turbocharged cars that produce a LOT more heat under the hood then my Z06 and haven't worried about this phenomenon.
If it's an issue with the hose deteriorating, either check it once every couple of months, use SS hose, or just buy $2 worth of hose and replace it once a year.
Or am I missing something here?
I work on turbocharged cars that produce a LOT more heat under the hood then my Z06 and haven't worried about this phenomenon.
If it's an issue with the hose deteriorating, either check it once every couple of months, use SS hose, or just buy $2 worth of hose and replace it once a year.
Or am I missing something here?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
Picture your engine as a big compressor or air pump. In the compressor industry, coalescing filters are used to trap blowby oil from the compressor. Every filter manufacturer recommends that you keep the filter away from the heat source (the compressor), since any moisture that is in the air is more likely to condense in a cooler vessel. In the case of an engine, the oil-laden air is kept fairly warm and its path is short. However, if there is any moisture in it, it is less likely to condense in a hot filter body. This is why I keep my coalescing filter at the front of the engine bay, away from the intense engine heat.
Another thing to mention is that a typical catch can uses rather crude stainless steel or Scotchbrite mesh. This type of filter media (the stainless, anyway) is very heat resistant, so it should not degrade. However a true coalescing filter uses binders to keep its borosilicate glass filter media together. As such, a standard zinc-bodied filter has a maximum operating temperature of about 180 degrees F. This is why it is important not to directly bolt such a filter to the engine via a steel or aluminum bracket. I recommend FR4 for this type of application. Ideally though, it is best to keep the filter away from the heat source.
Dave
Another thing to mention is that a typical catch can uses rather crude stainless steel or Scotchbrite mesh. This type of filter media (the stainless, anyway) is very heat resistant, so it should not degrade. However a true coalescing filter uses binders to keep its borosilicate glass filter media together. As such, a standard zinc-bodied filter has a maximum operating temperature of about 180 degrees F. This is why it is important not to directly bolt such a filter to the engine via a steel or aluminum bracket. I recommend FR4 for this type of application. Ideally though, it is best to keep the filter away from the heat source.
Dave
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 161
From: PNW
I'm not quite understanding the reason you're worried about the temperature of a catch-can. About the hose prematurely decomposing?
I work on turbocharged cars that produce a LOT more heat under the hood then my Z06 and haven't worried about this phenomenon.
If it's an issue with the hose deteriorating, either check it once every couple of months, use SS hose, or just buy $2 worth of hose and replace it once a year.
Or am I missing something here?
I work on turbocharged cars that produce a LOT more heat under the hood then my Z06 and haven't worried about this phenomenon.
If it's an issue with the hose deteriorating, either check it once every couple of months, use SS hose, or just buy $2 worth of hose and replace it once a year.
Or am I missing something here?
I think that even if the mounting bracket could be thermally isolated on the RH head, the catch can would probably still get pretty hot with driving due to the hot crankcase gasses running through it. I can see if the catch can was mounted way up front with long hoses, then the crankcase gasses would probably lose much more heat and and not heat up the can as much - plus the can is out of the "hot zone". I'm not sure if the performance of the catch can would be any better if it ran cooler or not. Even though it's pretty hot to the touch when mounted in the engine compartment to the RH head, it still might be relatively cool enough to work effectively.
Last edited by ZeeOSix; May 20, 2007 at 05:20 PM.
