So I finished putting my new pads on like how the old ones came off, and read the directions here on the forum.(I had the dealer change my fuild this afternoon). After getting the wheels back on and lowed the car down, I put it in reverse to test the new pads on my street. Started backing out and NO BRAKES! Luckily I realized to pump the pedal and got them working in time before running out into the street

The problem now is my pedal still feels alittle spongy, and the brakes work great except at about 7mph and below under medium to light braking I can hear a faint metal on metal grinding noise (not normal pad squeal). It sounds like its coming from the passanger front, but im not sure.

Any ideas? They are Z06 rear pads and Hawk HP+ fronts


Oh and I tested the ABS and it works as well.

 

Are you sure you got the front pads matched up into sets correctly?

 

Hawk hps plus are a very good pad, but they tend to squeek on the street because they need to be hot to work properly. I run them on the track and run Z06 pads on the street. The other thing to to do is, bed the hps plus pads to the rotors properly.

 

If you mean making sure the tabs are in the little holes then yes. My HP's didnt get hot enough to make the squeak, but I might still do some pad swapping after my first autox next weekend.


How do you "bed" the pads to the rotors properly?

 

here are a couple must read articles given your described situation.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...edbrakes.shtml

 

sounds normal for hp's

 

Question.... you said the dealer changed the fluid?

Did the dealer change the brake fluid?

If YES - sounds like the dealer did a poor brake bleeding job.

 

Sounds like a crappy bleeding job. The pedal should be prety solid and a little nosise form the pads is expected while they are bedding in. I'd be bringing it bqck to the stelaership!! good Luck!!

 

I had a similar scary experience... but it was because I forgot to pump up the system after I changed the pads (I did not bleed the brakes - just pushed the pistons back in).

If they did bleed the brakes, they may not have removed ll of the air. Pumping up the first time is normal, but spongy brakes are not.

Good luck!

Chuck

 

Brent

That was the exact condition that I thought you expierenced! If you dont pump the peddel and force the pad out to meet the rotors, you wouldnt have any brakes on the first pump or two or three! Yep, it sure will give you a sphincer pucker attack!!

I would round up a friend and have him help you re-bleed the brakes. Make sure that you keep the master cylinder topped off to prevent it from going dry and introducing air into the system.

BC

Brent = B-rent Now I get it!

 

Im gonna mess with my pads and try to fix the noise, but worst case take it to the manager (since service is closed today and Ill be working when they are open this week) and show him. Then either get a free re-bleed and make sure to get the tech II bleed or demand my money back and do it myself now that I got speed bleeders in

 

UPDATE:

Spongy pedal seems to be fixed now after i bleed a little.

I grinded down the bottom metal bracket that the pads go on top of cause it seemed to be rubbing but the car is still making a loud metal on metal noise at the end of stops. It is def. not the brake pads squealling. I also made sure they were in the right way. Any ideas? I work all day this week so its gonna be hard getting someone to look at it

 

Break them in a little bit before you start worrying about sounds. Metal on metal noise with race or race/street pads is pretty common. Especially crappy ones like Hawk! (flamesuit on). True race pads sound like your car is going to fall apart.

Dope

 

I drove it around tonight and no change, but ill give it another day or so to see. I got an autocross this weekend so I just want everything right for then

 

Raises hand

Excuse me, I realize Im not a mechanic, but anything that involves :

would make me take a little while till I could get it looked at (as long as the brakes are working) before I modified anything else myself.

Just my 2 cents :-)

 

It was just the cheap flimsy slider piece, I grinding down alittle of the edges but still more than enough for them to do there job. Your right though, if I wasnt sure this wouldnt hurt I wouldnt be messing with grinding pieces!

 

Just a couple of FYI things...

You will need to pump the brakes after installing new pads and before trying to use them The reason being that you pushed the caliper piston in all the way to get the caliper off, and it needs to get to the correct place for your new pads (remember it went on pretty easy so there is room for wiggling it around). Also, the caliper is a floating caliper and it needs to re-center to your pads/rotor. I forget this often...

The metal on metal sounds from "race" or "high performance" pads is normal. This is not squealing, which is vibrations. This is metal on metal, because a lot of race pads are basically metal. They will grind your rotors, nothing you can do about it accept use street pads. To give you an idea, some say you can resurface your rotors with Hawk’s Blue race pad LOL. The race pads I have now basically sound like I don't have any pad, they sound like my brakes are shot. They sound a little better when hot. Race pads are not really that great for the street, as you usually don’t get them hot enough to make them effective. Race pads primary function is to hold up to heat (and actually have a temp range they work best in), so you don't get brake fade. They don't stop you a whole lot better on a cool stop, and some stop worse when cold. For mostly street use, from what I know, you have two options: use a ceramic which has low dust but some say does not bite as well, or use a metal pad which should bite better (but not a whole lot) and you will have a dust problem. For the track, any serious track pad should be avoided if possible on the street. The reason being as stated above, they need to get hot to work well. It could be that what you are hearing is normal, at your autox this weekend ask around and get some opinions of guys who know HP+ pads.

Myself, not a real fan of HP+, tried them once and will not do it again. But, they may be good for autox.

Good luck with it

 

try putting some grease on the little "ears" on the ends of the pads that touch the metal clips. it's the metal clips that make the squeaking.

 

Yeah, I ran some XP10/11's on the street after a track event, got a lot of "wow, your car sounds like crap" stares, hahahaha

Not to mention one hard brake and *poof* instant filthly calipers/wheels. They stop like you wouldn't believe on track though!

 

FYI ~ I'm glad I did all my own brake work this past time (swapped, cals, brackets, rotors, etc) - even with my unbelievably slow time to complete, I still feel like my final result is much safer than my dealer...