Removing engine from below?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 0
From: Central TX
Removing engine from below?
I have pulled the engine out from the top, twice
. It's not bad, especially when you have some extra help. Stabbing it back in is probably the only pain.
I am short on help, and had a local club member offer to let me borrow his lift in his shop. He said if we would drop it from beneath, as factory intended, he would gladly help.
I cannot find any posts or tech tips on this method. What else needs to be removed/disconnected? You know, mystery wires, lines, etc... What steering/suspension items have to be disconnected?
I already have radiator, shocks, pulleys, etc... removed to make things quicker. Any tips would be helpful.
. It's not bad, especially when you have some extra help. Stabbing it back in is probably the only pain.I am short on help, and had a local club member offer to let me borrow his lift in his shop. He said if we would drop it from beneath, as factory intended, he would gladly help.
I cannot find any posts or tech tips on this method. What else needs to be removed/disconnected? You know, mystery wires, lines, etc... What steering/suspension items have to be disconnected?
I already have radiator, shocks, pulleys, etc... removed to make things quicker. Any tips would be helpful.
Drifting
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,715
Likes: 1
From: cAshburn VA
check out my pics on the following page:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze6ydad/iflubyu/id13.html
basiclaly you detach the lower control arms, rear carrier, front k-member, shifter, exhaust and tunnel plate and all the harnesses, get it all properly supported, and lift the car off of it. Mind you, someone is doing this one for me, as I don't have access to a lift, if I did I would do it this way.
Good luck!
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze6ydad/iflubyu/id13.html
basiclaly you detach the lower control arms, rear carrier, front k-member, shifter, exhaust and tunnel plate and all the harnesses, get it all properly supported, and lift the car off of it. Mind you, someone is doing this one for me, as I don't have access to a lift, if I did I would do it this way.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 0
From: Central TX
if you were just removing engine alone, do you need to remove the tunner plate?
for front engine removal, i guesstimate:
undoing brake lines
unbolting steering rack
shocks
control arms
whatever wires
fuel injection hose
clutch line
for front engine removal, i guesstimate:
undoing brake lines
unbolting steering rack
shocks
control arms
whatever wires
fuel injection hose
clutch line
Vettaholic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Wherever I drive my vette
I actually removed the entire drivetrain, trans included, from below. Was in fact rather easy. The only point is that you of course need to drop both front and rear crossmembers. And you need to jack the car sufficiently high to be able to clear the front impact bar. To make this easier I fabricated a cradle on whch I lowered the entire drivetrain upon, so all I had to do was to roll it out.
The main issue you will encounted doing this is the wiring harness at the front. O2 sensors, EBCM looms need to be cleared out of the way. Headers should be removed. I also suggest you remove the intake beforehand so that clearance with the front of the car is increased.
There are no real mysteries there, just proceed step by step. I would say that once you have removed the crossmember and carefully lovered the whole assembly, the whole engine is ready to be rolled out.
If you also want to drop the trans as I did, also the tunner plate needs to go. There is this huge wiring loom fixed on the trans tube, and that one will be a hassle. I removed it after dropping the whole assembly a few inches, and then eased the trans+engine out of the car.
Good luck
The main issue you will encounted doing this is the wiring harness at the front. O2 sensors, EBCM looms need to be cleared out of the way. Headers should be removed. I also suggest you remove the intake beforehand so that clearance with the front of the car is increased.
There are no real mysteries there, just proceed step by step. I would say that once you have removed the crossmember and carefully lovered the whole assembly, the whole engine is ready to be rolled out.
If you also want to drop the trans as I did, also the tunner plate needs to go. There is this huge wiring loom fixed on the trans tube, and that one will be a hassle. I removed it after dropping the whole assembly a few inches, and then eased the trans+engine out of the car.
Good luck
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 734
Likes: 0
From: Austin TX
I wouldn't remove it fromt he bottom unless you needed to do a bunch of extra work to the diff/tranny areas too. Seems like a heckuva lot of work when pulling it out of the top isn't too hard.
Are you anywhere around Austin? Maybe I could lend a hand.
Are you anywhere around Austin? Maybe I could lend a hand.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,356
Likes: 1
From: Chesapeake Va
Pulling them out the bottom isnt that hard. And, when its all done, it ends up being much easier than having to deal with trying to get the motor out and back in thru the top. Its the way these things were made to come apart.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 734
Likes: 0
From: Austin TX
My point was since you have to remove intake, power steering, drain it all you are already getting to the point where pulling it from the top is quicker and requires removing fewer bolts. As far as puttin it back in, you gotta have patience and a pry bar.
I think this would be a great way to pull the entire power train if you needed to do work to the tranny and engine at the same time, however, just too much stuff to do for a simple engine pull.
I think this would be a great way to pull the entire power train if you needed to do work to the tranny and engine at the same time, however, just too much stuff to do for a simple engine pull.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
from experience of removing a few drivetrains for motor swaps, I'd say go for it
leave the a/c comp in the car, system unopened
pull the st. rack to leave the RF brake line in the car, system unopened
as an added bonus you will be 'The Man' when your friends stop by and see the body of a C5 up in the air on the lift
feel free to post with any questions
leave the a/c comp in the car, system unopened
pull the st. rack to leave the RF brake line in the car, system unopened
as an added bonus you will be 'The Man' when your friends stop by and see the body of a C5 up in the air on the lift
feel free to post with any questions
Last edited by SteveDoten; Jun 6, 2007 at 02:08 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,356
Likes: 1
From: Chesapeake Va
Out the bottom. The only way to go. Looks like the guys at EG take the brake lines out with. We leave them with the vehicle. Except for the front pass side. We leave the brakes and upper a arms with the car also.
Edit; Sorry, that wasnt EGs shop that took the brake lines down with the PT. Just saw that...
Last edited by edcmat-l1; Jun 6, 2007 at 04:32 PM.
