what else do i need for a lifter change?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,048
Likes: 1,475
From: South Florida
what else do i need for a lifter change?
I need to change a couple of lifters on the drivers side of my 01 Z06.
I just want to make sure i have everything i need before I start.
-Dexcool
-Head Gasket
-of course the new lifters
-Intake manifold gasket? does it even use one?
-Head bolts? do i need new ones or can I reuse my old ones?
I need to do this project this weekend, any answers would help greatly.
Thanks!
-Taz
I just want to make sure i have everything i need before I start.
-Dexcool
-Head Gasket
-of course the new lifters
-Intake manifold gasket? does it even use one?
-Head bolts? do i need new ones or can I reuse my old ones?
I need to do this project this weekend, any answers would help greatly.
Thanks!
-Taz
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Yes you definitely need new head bolts....they are a one-time use item.
The intake manifold seals are like thick rubber O-rings, and it's safe to reuse and not worry about them.
If you have time to still acquire them, it would be wise to replace the 4 plastic lifter trays (pushrod guides) too. p/n 12551162. These are what your lifters slide up and down in (and keep them aligned with the cam), and also what holds your lifters up during a cam swap. You'll find fresh ones will grip the lifters noticeably tighter than the old ones. They are dirt cheap, replace them if you can get them in time.
That plus what you mentioned shold get the job done.
Just be VERY meticulous in cleaning the block and head deck surfaces, as well as the boltholes in the block before reinstalling the heads. The slightest speck of debris can cause big problems, and that means doing it all over again.
The intake manifold seals are like thick rubber O-rings, and it's safe to reuse and not worry about them.
If you have time to still acquire them, it would be wise to replace the 4 plastic lifter trays (pushrod guides) too. p/n 12551162. These are what your lifters slide up and down in (and keep them aligned with the cam), and also what holds your lifters up during a cam swap. You'll find fresh ones will grip the lifters noticeably tighter than the old ones. They are dirt cheap, replace them if you can get them in time.
That plus what you mentioned shold get the job done.
Just be VERY meticulous in cleaning the block and head deck surfaces, as well as the boltholes in the block before reinstalling the heads. The slightest speck of debris can cause big problems, and that means doing it all over again.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
I also replaced the seals on the coolant block offs and the front pipe, water pump gasket, dipstick, AIR pipe gaskets (where they connect to the exhaust manifold) and exhaust gaskets. Also, use a hand pump and small tube (I used a Miti-vac) or a shop vac to suck the coolant from the block prior to removing the heads. This minimizes the coolant mess. Make sure the bolt holes are dry as the Sahara before putting the heads back on, any coolant leftover in the bolt holes can crack the block. Be real careful of dirt in the lifter bores too.
You will need new GM bolts, I installed the ARP studs instead. I knew I would be going back in some day
You will need new GM bolts, I installed the ARP studs instead. I knew I would be going back in some day
