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Shift knob adjusment

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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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Default Shift **** adjusment

I just added a B&M SHort shifter. I also have a ball shift **** with C% logo. The **** uses a special nut (odd shaped nut) so that you can make sure the logo is centered and thenyou tighten the nut.

The new shifter is lower and if I take the nut oout the ball sits nice and low, just the C5 logo is upside down. If I use the nut it raises the ball back to stock height.

How did you guys do it? I hope this made sense.
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 04:25 PM
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ttt
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 06:08 PM
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Easy, eliminate the jamb nut and use shims beneath the **** to adjust the C5 logo where you want it.
The shim(s) can be anything of thickness that gives you the desired results...washers, button head allen screw set into the "Demon key" milled slot (if present in the B&M), small OD nylon ball, etc.
The other option is to cut off some of the top threaded portion of the shift lever to compensate for the **** locked in place with the jamb nut.
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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From: Longview Texas
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Originally Posted by gmbnj
I just added a B&M SHort shifter. I also have a ball shift **** with C% logo. The **** uses a special nut (odd shaped nut) so that you can make sure the logo is centered and thenyou tighten the nut.

The new shifter is lower and if I take the nut oout the ball sits nice and low, just the C5 logo is upside down. If I use the nut it raises the ball back to stock height.

How did you guys do it? I hope this made sense.
If the jam nut is very thick, you could try cutting it, or grinding it down so it is thinner. It does not take many theads just to lock the **** in place. I did this with a T-Handle on another car because I did not want the nut to stick out below the handle.

If you want to adjust the **** by shimming, it would depend on what is bottoming out on the **** first, the shaft inside the **** or the bottom of the threads on the shifter. If you put something inside the **** to adjust it, be careful not to tighten the **** too tight or you might crack it. I would just try to modify the nut.

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Jun 15, 2007 at 06:14 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 07:39 PM
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Jamb nuts are by nature, thinner than a regular SAE/metric nut. Holding on to a jamb nut to cut or grind will not be an easy task with typical hard tools. A machinist could easily accomplish this process though.
I don't see how a 2"-2.25" typical **** would crack if hand tightened to much. I doubt that one could torque it that much. My HURST **** has internal brass threads.
I hadn't considered what might be bottoming out on the **** that shimming may or may not remedy.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
I don't see how a 2"-2.25" typical **** would crack if hand tightened to much. I doubt that one could torque it that much. My HURST **** has internal brass threads.
I hadn't considered what might be bottoming out on the **** that shimming may or may not remedy.
There is a brass thread insert but it does not go the full depth of the hole. When I was saying that tightening too tight might crack the ****, I was referring to the bottom of the hole. If the hole is drilled almost all the way through the ****, it may be close enough to the top surface that you could crack it.
Some Hurst ***** do not have the hole threaded the full depth of the **** so they will not accept the full thread depth of the Hurst (and stock) shifter. I ordered a **** from an eBay supplier, and he makes sure the ***** are drilled and tapped past the brass threads. I was cautioned not to tighten the **** too tight, so evidently, it has happened.

My Hurst **** will thread all the way down,where no threads are showing on the Hurst shifter.


Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Jun 20, 2007 at 01:15 AM.
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