Here's the scenario:

I pull over for whatever reason (car running, hand-brake engaged, 6MT gearbox in neutral) and hop out of the car. For example, to return a DVD at the Blockbuster drop-box. I hop back into the car a few seconds later, and I now have "Service Active Handling" and "Service Traction Control" messages.

However, if I turn the car off and then back on, the messages clear. Mechanically, the car drives perfectly fine.

Anyone ever heard of this happening before? Did GM farm out the electronics on the Corvette to Lucas?

 

I had these come up, cleared them and they returned. It turned out to be the wheel speed sensor that needed to be replaced.

 

You need to display the diagnostic codes on the DIC and see what shows up. It could be as simple as a connector corrosion problem or much more expensive.

Bill

 

now that explains everything!

 

When there is a problem anywhere in the system, the computer does not know what's going on with the car or cannot respond correctly. Rather than risking the wrong response which could potentially wreck you car, the whole system is simply disabled for the remainder of the ignition cycle. At this time you will see the ABS and Traction Control warning indicators illuminated on the instrument cluster along with the following messages on the Driver Information Center (DIC):
- Service ABS
- Service Traction System
- Service Active Handling

At this point, you can safely continue to drive your car, just remember that your electronic driving aids are no longer functioning so you should adjust your driving habits accordingly.

Troubleshooting

When there is a problem the system is deactivated for the remainder of the ignition cycle, so sometimes everything will go back to normal if you just turn off the car and restart it. If that corrects the problem, it was either a glitch in the system, a lose connection that's going to come back soon or an early sign of a future failure that is coming. Even though the system is now functional it is still beneficial to continue to trouble shoot. The history code should give you a good idea of what to check

The next step is to see where the fault is. If you have several different codes write them down, clear them, and see which ones come back the next time you start the car. At this point, I'm betting that the codes point to either the EBCM or the wheel speed sensors.

Electronic Brake Control Module

The most common code for the EBCM is C1214 - Sol Valve relay Contact or coil CKT Open. This code is set when the system voltage is less than 8 volts for 0.23 seconds.

....I can email You the rest of this (large) file with photos, if you PM me your email address...

 

Thanks for the heads up. I pulled and cleared the codes via the DIC, drove around for the day, and then recreated the errors the next morning. Here's what I ended up with:

U1016 H - U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1064 H - U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 H - U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
C1295 H - C1295 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Open

Sounds like the poor factory grounding issue?

 

I have been having the exact same problems. I love my vette and runs great but I'm so freaking tired of all these electrical problems, they are costing me an arm and a leg!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Check Bill Curlee's sticky post in the C5 Tech forum. There are a couple of entries about splice packs, as well. There's one under the battery. If you've ever had an acid leak, it may be damaged. Grounds are possible sources, too. Servicing the grounds seemed to fix my gremlins, at least for now.

I used some copper to aluminum splice compound (get it at Lowe's or an electrical supply), where the aluminum lugs meet the brass/copper stud and nut on the frame, and some dielectric grease on the pins and housing to try to seal it. Another contractor suggested Nolox. Just trying to keep this from being a regular deal. The notes are all in the thread. Good luck.