Radiator Screen
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 178
Likes: 2
From: Lorton VA
I thought about buying those pre made screens for about $50 and up but found them to be more restictive (due to the surface area of the materials used, usually aluminum). So I went to a local Home Depot store and bought a roll of wire mesh screens (2' X 3') in the garden section for under $7. They have 1/4 inch spacing (don't get the larger spaced ones or debris will still get in), thin, and are galvanized (to resist rust). I cut them to the proper size using a regular wire clipper (I think it was 28" x 12 ", might want to measure just to be sure) and bent approximately 1" in the back end to hook it into the center spoiler . Slide the back end of the screen over the center spoiler and tuck the front end under the front bumper and tighten using the existing front bumper screws (when you slide the front end under the bumper, the the back end that was bent should catch on the spoiler). I also used plastic ties to secure the back end to be sure they don't pop out. I actually made another one for a friend and still had plenty of screen left over. It's fairly easy and definitely a lot cheaper than the pre made screens. Just be careful when cutting the wires...the points are sharp and they will stick you. Good Luck.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 23,682
Likes: 9
From: Flagstaff Az.
I thought about buying those pre made screens for about $50 and up but found them to be more restictive (due to the surface area of the materials used, usually aluminum). So I went to a local Home Depot store and bought a roll of wire mesh screens (2' X 3') in the garden section for under $7. They have 1/4 inch spacing (don't get the larger spaced ones or debris will still get in), thin, and are galvanized (to resist rust). I cut them to the proper size using a regular wire clipper (I think it was 28" x 12 ", might want to measure just to be sure) and bent approximately 1" in the back end to hook it into the center spoiler . Slide the back end of the screen over the center spoiler and tuck the front end under the front bumper and tighten using the existing front bumper screws (when you slide the front end under the bumper, the the back end that was bent should catch on the spoiler). I also used plastic ties to secure the back end to be sure they don't pop out. I actually made another one for a friend and still had plenty of screen left over. It's fairly easy and definitely a lot cheaper than the pre made screens. Just be careful when cutting the wires...the points are sharp and they will stick you. Good Luck.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 431
Likes: 5
From: Chico CA
I thought about buying those pre made screens for about $50 and up but found them to be more restictive (due to the surface area of the materials used, usually aluminum). So I went to a local Home Depot store and bought a roll of wire mesh screens (2' X 3') in the garden section for under $7. They have 1/4 inch spacing (don't get the larger spaced ones or debris will still get in), thin, and are galvanized (to resist rust). I cut them to the proper size using a regular wire clipper (I think it was 28" x 12 ", might want to measure just to be sure) and bent approximately 1" in the back end to hook it into the center spoiler . Slide the back end of the screen over the center spoiler and tuck the front end under the front bumper and tighten using the existing front bumper screws (when you slide the front end under the bumper, the the back end that was bent should catch on the spoiler). I also used plastic ties to secure the back end to be sure they don't pop out. I actually made another one for a friend and still had plenty of screen left over. It's fairly easy and definitely a lot cheaper than the pre made screens. Just be careful when cutting the wires...the points are sharp and they will stick you. Good Luck.
The bigger problem was that the screen contacted the Outside Air Temperature sensor on the right side of the frame. I cut out a bit of the screen, to give half an inch clearance all around, and it works fine!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 1
From: LEBANON PA.
Hi taegee2,
I had the thought of buying & installing the pre made screens also.
You have a good ideal & did a terrific job. I was wondering if you took some pictures that we all could see & benefit from? thanks ROB
I had the thought of buying & installing the pre made screens also.
You have a good ideal & did a terrific job. I was wondering if you took some pictures that we all could see & benefit from? thanks ROB
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
Likes: 224
From: Hillsboro Oregon
After looking at my vette seems that the screen is going to rub on the air deflector as it sits up higher than the bottom of the front bumper and the rear mount bar behind the air deflector.
So how did you account for the height difference? Won't the screen interfere with the back and forth motion of the air deflector ?
Jim
So how did you account for the height difference? Won't the screen interfere with the back and forth motion of the air deflector ?
Jim
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 431
Likes: 5
From: Chico CA
After looking at my vette seems that the screen is going to rub on the air deflector as it sits up higher than the bottom of the front bumper and the rear mount bar behind the air deflector.
So how did you account for the height difference? Won't the screen interfere with the back and forth motion of the air deflector ?
Jim
So how did you account for the height difference? Won't the screen interfere with the back and forth motion of the air deflector ?
Jim
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
Likes: 224
From: Hillsboro Oregon
Can't speak to the hardware cloth screen, though it's probably similar to the aluminum one I have. The front edge screws down, between the bumper cover and bumper frame. The back edge floats, so when the air deflector moves, the screen moves with it. No interference - works a trick. Though I did worry about it at first.
So it is only secured at the front, not at the rear or sides ?
Seems that after flexing a lot it would just break off from metal fatigue......
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 178
Likes: 2
From: Lorton VA
I will gladly e-mail you some pics to those who want them (I couldn't post them on this thread). As for the metal screen flexing, it is flexible to to begin with and the air deflector moving back and forth is not significant enough to to put any stress on the screen (it is not being bent back and forth to cause it to break). So, this should not be a big concern. Besides, most metal, especially this thin, are designed to flex.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 431
Likes: 5
From: Chico CA
I will gladly e-mail you some pics to those who want them (I couldn't post them on this thread). As for the metal screen flexing, it is flexible to to begin with and the air deflector moving back and forth is not significant enough to to put any stress on the screen (it is not being bent back and forth to cause it to break). So, this should not be a big concern. Besides, most metal, especially this thin, are designed to flex.
The flex is spread over the entire 12-14 inches of width, rather than right at the attachment point. It will fail over time, but so will we all - shouldn't cause worry, as the small flex makes for a really long time to fatigue.
Do find and make provision for your Outside Air Temperature sensor, though. Mine was damaged by contact with the screen and the little vibration that went on. I just cut out some relief around it with a pair of tin snips. Works great! Buy or make, I strongly recommend these things. They keep the crud out of the condensor and rad fins.