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I recently found out that my crank bolt backed out.It was after I did a H/C intake swap.It only backed out about 1/8 inch.I was complaining about having to remove the steering rack again.However,I gained access to the bolt by only taking the two main bolts out of the rack and moving it upward slightly... Im gonna locktite the crap outta the bolt this time,as I did the last.Only it is ARP issued....Just a heads up for anyone thinking about a cam change.
its ok.Alot of guys have been having problems with the stock bolts backing out after a cam change.The bolt is a torque to yield bolt.People believe that they are being stretched too far. I used a new bolt but it still backed out.My car only has about 9k on it.Only 300 since the head/cam swap.I didnt have this prob lem before...Do a search on z06vette. for loose crank bolt for more info...Thanks...Bobby
its ok.Alot of guys have been having problems with the stock bolts backing out after a cam change.The bolt is a torque to yield bolt.People believe that they are being stretched too far. I used a new bolt but it still backed out.My car only has about 9k on it.Only 300 since the head/cam swap.I didnt have this prob lem before...Do a search on z06vette. for loose crank bolt for more info...Thanks...Bobby
I have never had a problem with a stock bolt if properly torqued. "Properly" is very tight using a jack handle over breaker bar to get the 140*.
Did give up on an ARP (with Locktite) after it came out twice.
The balancer bolt is a one time use bolt. Spend another $5 for a new bolt every time. Also, to correctly install it you first torque to 37 ft-lb. mark it and place another mark at 140 deg. It takes a mighty effort to get it to the second mark usually a 4 to 1 torque wrench and someone in the car standing on the brakes. A high torque 3/4" air gun also helps. Plenty of lock tight is another good thing to use.