Howdy all,

I have been searching through the forums and have figured out not to get a stock replacement. Mine is wobbly and I want to take care of the problem before it gets worse...

Since I am a college student and money is an issue, I am going with the Powerband 25% underdrive pulley. I am getting the good ARP bolt. Does anybody have any experience with this pulley?

Also, is there a good place to get procedures for just pulling the pulley if I am not doing a heads and cam swap at the same time. It would be nice, but again, money is an issue right now. Is there any snags, or specialty tools, besides a crank puller, that I should be aware of?

Thanks in advance!

 

You need an installation tool, which you can make out of M16X2 threaded rod. You should also replace the timing cover seal, its only a few bucks and probably money better spent than the ARP bolt.

 

Once the pulley is off, how much of a hassle is the timing cover?

What about the Powerband 25% underdrive pulley, any body have experience with that?

 

What do you get if buying the ASP pulley for another $100.00?

 

No need to remove the timing cover, the seal can be removed from the cover with the right tool with the cover in place. The critical thing is the threads in the crankshaft, do a search and familiarize yourself with all the problems people have had using the wrong tools and wrong procedures. It will save you headaches going forward.

I don't know anything about that particular pulley, I am running an ATI.

 

 

Unless your "wobble" is really excessive (like 1/4 inch) i woudnt replace it, a very high percentage of vette balancers wobble, and even brand new ones wobble, and they dont cause any problems if its only "minor" Wobbling (thats alot of wobble talk!)

There is no money better spent then the ARP bolt, i will NEVER use a stock bolt again after i installed a new balancer, with a new stock bolt correctly torequed only to have the balancer walk itself off after about 20 miles. (if you search this is a known problem with stock bolts)

As for doing the job, youll need to get the car in the air and get the wheels off, then follow the LS1howto directions for getting the steering rack out, you should not have to pull the power steering pump out of the car, just remove the 2 lines from the rack.

Once the rack is out you need a the correct puller to remove the old balancer, then get a longer bolt from NAPA (they stock them for 8 dollars) to pull the new balancer on, once the balancer is on put your old bolt in the balancer, torque to spec, then remove old bolt, install ARP Bolt torque to spec, reinstall steering rack and presto you are done.

youll hear a million different methods for installing the new balancer, ive used the 8 dollar bolt from NAPA dozens and dozens of times and it has never come close to failing on me, but in the end its up to you what method you use.

 

Unless you have some problem other than a visible wobble.

If money is tight, I'd let it ride. You'll know when it has to be replaced.

NOT to be confused with the bolt backing out, BTW. Thats something that requires immediate attention.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...light=balancer

It is truly amazing what you can do with the search function.

 

Hi Chad, Hope you are having a good laugh. I did search, I got some out of that, and am looking for a little more info. Thank you all for the suggestions.

 

I am having the same problem, Thanks for the info guys! Glad the forum is back up!

 

You have a part numnber for that particular bolt casue I checked with them and they didnt have anything close?

Thanks



Brad

 

Powerbond underdrive pulley is One other thing to consider is pinning the crank.

 

Longer bolt is a very bad idea, just read how many have gotten into trouble using this method. Got to be 100's at this point.

 

I beat my new balancer on until I got like 6 turns of the bolt in the crank.. then cranked it down with the old bolt, no problems. I searched all over town for an installer and parts to build an installer.. no luck in this town. If you have time, order the correct installer.

I have read a few different torque procedures on the net. I torqued the old bolt to like 250 lbs, then torqued the new one to like 72 lbs, then torqued another 3rd turn.. That's off the top of my head, could be correct or very close. I'll check into further if you like. I've had no problems with it.

 

I just finished this job. I built a pusher tool just like the one pictured in this thread. Worked like a charm. I couldn't find any M16x2.0 threaded rod locally, so I ordered all the bits from McMaster-Carr. For about the same price, I could have bought the Kent-Moore balancer installer on eBay (don't have the part number in front of me but it's the tool called for in the manual), but I didn't want to wait for the eBay auction so I just rolled my own.

I also HIGHLY recommend getting the Kent-Moore J-42386 flywheel holding tool. You have to put a LOT of torque on the crank bolt and jamming a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to lock it is sort of asking for trouble. I got one on eBay for about $30.

I also used a Kent-Moore J-41816 balancer puller. I got it on eBay for about $10. It's just a 3-jaw puller, but it's sized specifically for the LS-1 and is short so you can use it without removing the radiator and fans.

Once you finish the job, you can sell those specialty tools on eBay and get your money out of them.

 

The longer bolt (if you have the correct one) works just fine, everytime theres a thread about this that install tool gets posted up and someone starts sayin how bad the longer bolt method is.

Yes that install tool i am sure works fine, but that does not mean its the only way, like i said ive used the longer bolt method dozens of times, its so easy and ive never come anywhere close to having one fail, and honestly i dont see how it can.

 

How many posts have you seen where a problem has occurred using the correct tool vs. how many have either stripped threads or bottomed out and then broke the longer bolt? It may work fine for you but it is a bad general recommendation and far too many guys find themselves with huge problems with this approach. Mike94ZLT1 was the latest example of following internet procedures and then getting into trouble with them.

 

The tolerances between the crank snout and the pulley hub ID are tight. You're better off drawing it on the crank with a lot of threads engaged, vs not many (long bolt).

In doing this I would highly recommend using a proper install tool (make it or buy it) and pinning the pulley to the crank.

 

I am a bit confused... Please help to clarify. The (longer bolt) is a different thing then the APR bolt correct? Yall are referring to using a longer bolt to pull the balancer on and then putting the actual bolt that will be used to hold the balancer in.