Real Axle Removal
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
Likes: 180
From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
there's links on this page to articles abotu removing just oen axle:
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/342.htm
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/342.htm
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,333
Likes: 0
From: Athens OH
Real Axle Removal
I'll be needing these soon as well. From what I read, it didn't look too bad. Just need to be sure to support the drivetrain so the engine doesn't lean against the firewall.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,884
Likes: 260
From: Jamison Pa
St. Jude Donor '11-'25
Rear Axle Removal
It's not hard if your just removing the halfshafts.
Disconnect the rear shock.
Disconnect the caliper, speed sensor and parking brake cable then you disconnect the rear upper a-arm nut and seperate it from the spindle.
Remove the axle nut and the pull the axle. It's not too bad.
Just remember to hook everything back up and torque them to factory specs. I purchased a 3/4 ratchet and socket for removing the axle nuts. It makes it easier to get them off. I use a 1/2" torque wrench and a socket adapter to torque it to the proper spec when going back on.
Bob K.
Disconnect the rear shock.
Disconnect the caliper, speed sensor and parking brake cable then you disconnect the rear upper a-arm nut and seperate it from the spindle.
Remove the axle nut and the pull the axle. It's not too bad.
Just remember to hook everything back up and torque them to factory specs. I purchased a 3/4 ratchet and socket for removing the axle nuts. It makes it easier to get them off. I use a 1/2" torque wrench and a socket adapter to torque it to the proper spec when going back on.
Bob K.
Last edited by Bob K; Jul 1, 2007 at 08:49 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 226
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
a new axle is about $225? from GM, often it's better to replace the entire assy. if the CV joints have been contaminated
this is something worth looking for when buying a used C5, a ring of grease will be found on the inner rim barrel if the outer boot let go
I suggest buying a GM service manual
this is something worth looking for when buying a used C5, a ring of grease will be found on the inner rim barrel if the outer boot let go
I suggest buying a GM service manual
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 20
From: FLORIDA
a new axle is about $225? from GM, often it's better to replace the entire assy. if the CV joints have been contaminated
this is something worth looking for when buying a used C5, a ring of grease will be found on the inner rim barrel if the outer boot let go
I suggest buying a GM service manual
this is something worth looking for when buying a used C5, a ring of grease will be found on the inner rim barrel if the outer boot let go
I suggest buying a GM service manual
They show a lot of special tools needed.
So my question was do I need to do it there way or not????
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
Likes: 180
From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
what did you read by some of the other forum members... "success" or "disaster" ???
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 16,513
Likes: 4
From: Official Dirty Dozen Member
Maybe if torx is special it's fairly easy job with air tools
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 20
From: FLORIDA
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 407
Likes: 2
From: Mesquite, Texas
You don't need any of the above tools....
Nor do you need to remove the shock absorber.
1. With the parking brake set, break the axle nut loose while the wheel & tire are still on the ground, loosen the lugnuts, then jack & support the rear of the car.
2. Remove the wheel & tire.
3. With the parking brake released, disconnect the cable from the e-brake lever at the hub, disconnect the wheel speed sensor, and remove the cable bracket.
4. Remove the brake caliper & rotor.
5. Disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle/hub.
6. Remove the axle nut.
7. Remove the two bolts attaching the upper control arm to the frame.
8. Swing/pivot the control arm & hub knuckle outward and toward the rear.
9. Work the outboard axle shaft out of the hub (use of some PB Blaster helps here). Once free, give it a sharp tug to pull it out of the differential.
10. Reverse to reassemble.
I just did my CV joints & differential seals last week....I could do this in my sleep now.
Mike
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 20
From: FLORIDA
You don't need any of the above tools....
Nor do you need to remove the shock absorber.
1. With the parking brake set, break the axle nut loose while the wheel & tire are still on the ground, loosen the lugnuts, then jack & support the rear of the car.
2. Remove the wheel & tire.
3. With the parking brake released, disconnect the cable from the e-brake lever at the hub, disconnect the wheel speed sensor, and remove the cable bracket.
4. Remove the brake caliper & rotor.
5. Disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle/hub.
6. Remove the axle nut.
7. Remove the two bolts attaching the upper control arm to the frame.
8. Swing/pivot the control arm & hub knuckle outward and toward the rear.
9. Work the outboard axle shaft out of the hub (use of some PB Blaster helps here). Once free, give it a sharp tug to pull it out of the differential.
10. Reverse to reassemble.
I just did my CV joints & differential seals last week....I could do this in my sleep now.
Mike
Nor do you need to remove the shock absorber.
1. With the parking brake set, break the axle nut loose while the wheel & tire are still on the ground, loosen the lugnuts, then jack & support the rear of the car.
2. Remove the wheel & tire.
3. With the parking brake released, disconnect the cable from the e-brake lever at the hub, disconnect the wheel speed sensor, and remove the cable bracket.
4. Remove the brake caliper & rotor.
5. Disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle/hub.
6. Remove the axle nut.
7. Remove the two bolts attaching the upper control arm to the frame.
8. Swing/pivot the control arm & hub knuckle outward and toward the rear.
9. Work the outboard axle shaft out of the hub (use of some PB Blaster helps here). Once free, give it a sharp tug to pull it out of the differential.
10. Reverse to reassemble.
I just did my CV joints & differential seals last week....I could do this in my sleep now.
Mike
