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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 10:11 PM
  #1  
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Default My C5's Sick

This is my first post in the forums and I come to you guys looking for help.

So I'm driving home the other day, and my car sputters, ie lost most power kind of like when i lose traction on the snow or rain, then i get a message saying service the traction control system and service the active handling system. When it sputters i was not on WOT, i was going down the highway at 65 apply steady gas, no acceleraton. So when i got home, i shut the car off and turned it back on and the error didnt come on, so I thought great. So about 8 hrs later I went to get in the car and noticed the radiator fan was on, when I tried to start it, no go. So now today I went and had the battery tested and it was bad, so i got it replaced, but it still will not start very well, but it does start. Now my dash lights up like a Christmas tree, not only do I get the two previous messages, but now I've go the service engine light. I havent driven it yet in fear of something going wrong, but I did right down all the error codes using the configure +fuel X 4, warning there is a ton. They are as follows:

10-PCM P0480 H C
10-PCM P1571 H
10-PCM P1652 H C

60-IPC B1543 H

A0-LDCM B2252 H
A0-LDCM B2282 H
A0-LDCM B2284 H
A0-LDCM B2262 H
A0-LDCM B2264 H
A0-LDCM U1064 H

A1-RDCM B2283 H
A1-RDCM B2285 H
A1-RDCM U1064 H

A6-SCM B0851 H
A6-SCM B2605 H
AG-SCM U1255 H
AG-SCM U1064 H
A6-SCM U1016 H

B0-RFA U1096 H
B0-RFA U1064 H
B0-RFA U1016 H

28-TCS C1255 H
28-TCS C1277 H
28-TCS U1016 C

Any advice would be very helpful as all this started right after i put it up for sale. Also its a 98 manual tranny, no mods.

Another wierd thing to point out is when i changed out the battery, the radiator fan came right back on, the only way I can get it to shut off is by pulling the fuse.
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 10:53 PM
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The codes with an "H" after them are history codes, not currently active. A low battery will set lots of codes as low voltage sets off a lot of codes.

Look at what active codes are:

P0480 FC Relay 1 Control Circuit

P1652 Powertrain Induced Chassis Pitch Output Circuit

U1016 Loss of Communication with PCM

I am not sure what a H and C means?

Here is some info on P0480:

DTC P0480 Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit
Refer to Cell 20: Engine Cooling Fans for complete circuit details.

Circuit Description
The cooling fan system in this vehicle provides for two separate modes of operation. These are the low speed fan and the high speed fan operating modes. The low speed mode operates both fans at half speed by using a series circuit configuration. The high speed mode operates both fans at full speed by using a parallel circuit configuration. These two operating modes are accomplished using 3 fan control relays.

This system which uses 3 relays to control two fan motors appears complicated. To aid in better understanding this system it is suggested to follow the circuits in the schematic as you read the description. This aids in understanding the two distinct modes of operating the relays and coolant fans.

The low speed fan operation is established when the PCM commands Fan Relay #1 ON by grounding circuit 335 with an internal driver (relays #2 and #3 are left OFF). This closes the relay switch and allows current to flow from the battery, through the switch contacts on circuit 409 to the left cooling fan. Current flow continues out of the fan motor on circuit 532 to relay #3. The un-energized relay #3 switch contacts allow current to flow to circuit 504. This provides power to the right cooling fan motor. The low side of the right cooling fan completes the circuit to ground on circuit 250. This is a series circuit which allows half speed operation for each fan since each fan motor uses half of the supplied battery power.

The high speed operation is established when all 3 relays are energized. Relays #2 and #3 share the same control circuit to the PCM. This is circuit 473. As in the low speed mode, Relay #1 supplies current flow to the left cooling fan on circuit 409. Current flow continues through the motor on circuit 532 to relay #3 which is now energized. The switch has now provided a path for current to flow through circuit 250 directly to ground. This circuit now only has the left fan motor to power and allows it to run at full speed. Relay #2 is also energized and provides current flow on circuit 504 to the right cooling fan. This fan now has its own dedicated circuit and will operate at full speed. This mode is operating as a parallel circuit.

Conditions for Running the DTC
The engine speed is greater than 400 RPM.
The system voltage is between 6 volts and 18 volts.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The PCM detects that the commanded state of the driver and the actual state of the control circuit do not match.
All of the above conditions present for a minimum of 5.0 seconds.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the PCM stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the PCM records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The PCM writes the conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The PCM turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.
Diagnostic Aids

Important
Remove any debris from the PCM\TAC module connector surfaces before servicing the PCM\TAC module. Inspect the PCM\TAC module connector gaskets when diagnosing/replacing the modules. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent contaminate intrusion into the PCM\TAC modules.
For any test that requires probing the PCM or a component harness connector, use the Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A . Using this kit prevents damage to the harness/component terminals. Refer to Using Connector Test Adapters in Wiring Systems.

For an intermittent, refer to Symptoms .

Cooling Fan Relay #1 Underhood Electrical Center Terminal Identification

Front of Vehicle

Left Side of Vehicle
Control
B+
Right Side of Vehicle

Load
B+


Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

Listen for an audible click when the relay operates. Command both the ON and the OFF states. Repeat the commands as necessary.

This step tests for voltage at the coil side of the cooling fan relay 1. The cooling fan 1 fuse supplies power to the coil side of the cooling fan relay 1.

This step verifies that the PCM is providing ground to the cooling fan relay 1.

This step tests if ground is constantly being applied to the cooling fan relay.

Step
Action
Values
Yes
No

1
Did you perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check

2
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
With a scan tool, command the cooling fan relay ON and OFF.
Does the cooling fan relay turn ON and OFF with each command?
--
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 4

3
Review the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data for this DTC.
Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds.
Start the engine.
Operate the vehicle within the same Conditions for running the DTC as specified in the supporting text or as close to the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data that you observed.
Does the DTC reset?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Intermittent Conditions

4
Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the cooling fan relay from the underhood electrical center.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Probe the coil side feed circuit of the cooling fan relay with a test lamp that is connected to a good ground. Refer to Diagnostic Aids for terminal identification.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 11

5
Connect a test lamp between the control circuit of the cooling fan relay and the coil side feed circuit of the cooling fan relay.
With a scan tool, command the cooling fan relay ON and OFF.
Does the test lamp turn ON and OFF with each command?
--
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 6

6
Does the test lamp remain illuminated with each command?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 7

7
Test the control circuit of the cooling fan relay for an open, or a short to voltage. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
If you find a condition repair as necessary. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 10

8
Test the control circuit of the cooling fan relay for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
If you find a condition repair as necessary. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 13

9
Inspect for poor connections at the cooling fan relay. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
If you find a condition, repair as necessary. Refer to Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 12

10
Inspect for poor connections at the PCM. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
If you find a condition, repair as necessary. Refer to Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 13

11
Repair the coil side feed circuit of the cooling fan relay. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 14
--

12
Replace the cooling fan relay.

Is the action complete?
--
Go to Step 14
--

13

Important
Program the replacement PCM.


Replace the PCM. Refer to Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Replacement .

Is the action complete?
--
Go to Step 14
--

14
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC reset?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Step 15

15
With a scan tool, review the Stored Information (capture info).

Does the scan tool display any DTCs that you have not diagnosed?
--
Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List/Type
System OK



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 554430



I would reset the codes and see what happens now.

Last edited by Oldvetter; Jul 1, 2007 at 11:03 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 11:01 PM
  #3  
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Pull the battery and check under the battery trey to see if there is any corrosion on the wiring harness/computer. The factory battery on some years did leak and over time this reeked havic on the electrical system.

Good Luck
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 11:52 PM
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Now that your battery is good, reset the codes. All should be well. If not, then it doesn't want you to sell it.

I had a car one time (not a vette) that I drove to work every day for three years. I decided to sell it and one Saturday a guy was coming to look at it. When I went to start it (before he got there) it wouldn't idle. I sprayed everything with WD-40, turned the idle screw up, drove it down the road, floored it. Nothing would make it idle. When the guy got there, I told him it's never done that in three years of me driving it every day. He drove it around the yard a little (I have 6 acres) and when he came back, fluid was spewing forward from underneath. It turned out to be a pinhole in a brake hose (braided steel ). I said you have got to be kidding me.

Obviously he wasn't interested, so I parked it over out of the way and left if for about a week, but I did replace the brake hose. My wife asked me to move it so she could mow the grass (yep, she mows ). I got in it, fired it up and it revved to the moon. I adjusted the idle screw back down and it has been fine ever since. I think sometimes they just know.
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 01:58 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Oldvetter
I am not sure what a H and C means?
H and C at the same time means the code is current and has occurred before.

Bill
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 10:50 AM
  #6  
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Yep,,,clear all the DTCs and then see if any return. Some C5 systems will not function properly if a DTC is set. A prime example is the HVAC system.

If you get a DTC after you clear all the codes, that will allow you to zero in on the real issue.

BC
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 03:46 PM
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Alright, well I cahrged the battery fully, reset the error codes, but it still wont start. i tried it on the charger as well to start it and it wont go. The wierd thing is, no more error codes.
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 04:22 PM
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Is it cranking, clicking, or doing nothing when you try to start now?

Where are you located?
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 06:45 PM
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Here is the starting schematic. You need to be looking at the Theft Deterrent relay to see if its engaging and has the 12 VDC from the starter fuses.

The purple wire goes to the starter solenoid.



The relay is in the passengers foot well and it on the fire wall above the top of the BCM Look for the correct color wires. There are TWO relays in that area.

BC
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 07:06 PM
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So, now it is back to not starting at all? Does the fan run all the time now?
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 07:20 PM
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I pulled the fuse for the radiator fan, i believe it was 45, but ill have to double check, that ways it doesnt stay on all the itme and run the battery down. It still trys to start, everyhting on the dash comes up and the radio plays so i know its not the battery. Its not clicking or anything, it makes the kinda noise that it does right before it starts normally. I'm in NE Ks.
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