I thought this code was related to not reinstalling the vacuum hose correctly behind the intake manifold (after replacing my oil pressure sensor). However, I've since reconnected everything as it originally was and my HVAC vents work flawlessly so I no longer have any guesses as to what the problem is.

Can someone give me more description of code P0410 (other than AIR System) and what causes it? My North Carolina inspection is due so I cleared the code and took it in for inspection. It passed everything except they will have to read my OBDII again because I cleared the memory. So now I have 30 days to get this thing working right.

Thanks for any help.

 

Air pump, left front of car in the nose. There is an access door in the nose on the drivers side. Most cars will pass with out it. You may have a wiring issue, or a bad pump. Could also be as simple as a bad line to the pump. You really don't need the pump it just pumps fresh air in for emissions. If you get a Diablo Sport hand held tuner you can take it out of the computer. This way the light will never be a problem again.


Good luck!

 

The code is related to the A.I R system check valves on the exhaust manifolds. The AIR pump runs when the PCM is in closed loop. The PCM tells the AIR pump to run and inject fresh air into the exhaust manifolds. It only runs for a minute or so to conduct a test and the majority of the time is OFF! The PCM then expects the O2 sensors to react a certain way to the injected air. If one O2 sensor or both sensors fail to react, it sets a DTC for that bank or both banks.

Normaly the check valve/s stick shut because of dirt/deposits. The dealers usually just replace the valves at your expense.

I have found that you can disconnect the air line, inject carb cleaner into the line and blast it through with an air compressor. It will dislodge the stuck valve and clean off the stickey residew.

This post will help you very much:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=check+valves

 

Bill, when you're spraying the carb cleaner into the hose, should the car be running?
How does the carb cleaner make it to the valves if the car is not running?

Thanks!!

 

I have a 2000 Chevy S-10 pickup that shows this same code for the air pump circuit. It has no affect on driving the vehicle. In NJ emissions checks are also done with plugging into the OBD II port, and it passes every time. It has no affect on idle emissions, which is what the test is based on. Just clear the code and forget about it.

 

striper

That wont work on a C5. Trust me!!! You will set a NOT Ready flag and you wont pass!

BC

 

I guess I'm lucky that hasn't happened to my Vette, my truck passed okay. Fortunately Jersey inspection is only done every other year now, anyway. If the code was cleared with my Tech 2 just before inspection, would that work? Just curious in case something happens.

 

Striper,
I cleared the code before taking it in for inspection too. What happend was when clearing the code, I essentially cleared the computer's memory. This caused the computer to have nothing to report to the OBDII scanner and thus they could not pass me on inspection because there was nothing for them to read/inspect.

I'll try taking it there with the SES light on and hopefully it will pass.


I tried the carb cleaner and WD-40 trick with the compressed air (had to go buy an air compressor from Home Depot). It did not work.
Not surprising since my P0410 code was different than the other codes listed above by other people.

I'm going to try and scan my CPU with autotap to see if it can give me any more detail surrounding the P0410 code.

This is frustrating that no one else seems to of had this specific code. I guess that makes me special.

Thanks,

 

I've had this issue numerous times. The dealer replaced the air pump and selonoid on multiple occasions while my 99 was under warranty. After many hours of trying to troubleshoot the reoccurance of this problem, I changes the micro-relay located in the underhood fuse block/electrical center. So far, this has worked on two other occasions. Seems to blow the relay after about a 2 year period. I don't know the underlying cause for blowing the relay, but it is worth a shot for the $10-$12 you will spend.

Good luck.

 

This link will give you a bit more info:

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...n-flow-egr.php

It maybe worth getting hold of the service manual for your year of vehicle as there will likely be some diagnostic help for this circuit. My wifes friend just had the same issue on a dodge caravan (I used a haynes manual and traced it to a bad diaphram). After clearing the codes you have to wait until the vehicle has run for a length of time/profile before the computer determines if it has an emission problem so when the emissions station will have checked they will have seen that the vehicle hadn't run this test yet.

Out of interest what does "Ventilated stock airbox" mean? I know that this circuit is associated with the intaken air in addition to exhaust back pressure and likely O2 sensors for monitoring.

 

this code sucks!! i had mine in several times to get it fixed. mine ended up getting new check valves, both sides. it is a code showing that the air pump is not functioning. try the lube like Bill said. in my research i have found all sorts of things that do this. a vaccum line by the battery can be bad, a pump could be bad or full of water, the check valves could be corroded, a tube may be damaged or loose, and even some more things. try to lube the valves first and go from there. there is no way to pass with this code in memory and no way to pass with all the memory erased. i found that with mine if it was cold started and shut off immediately a couple times ( like to back it up a foot or so ), started and reved immediately, ( by my son trying to show off the exhaust it had ) you can trigger this code. its air pump only runs for the first 30 seconds or so and will shut off if reved or engine killed. it takes two consecutive errors to trigger the light. and about 50 events with no problem to turn it off.
Good luck with this one, hopefully its the check valves like mine seemed to turn out to be and the lube will correct it. the passenger side one is a PITA to replace, the driver side takes minutes.
Ron

 

Thanks for the helpful information guys. Taking Bill's advice, I detached the check valve flanges from the exhaust manifold to determine whether any air was being pumped into the exhaust (essentially checking if the air pump and check valves were working). Both sides seemed to be fine, though the passenger side seemed weaker. Maybe I'll try Bill's cleaning procedure a couple of more times to see if it can clear it up.

This is very frustrating and financially a very bad time for this to happen.

As to the question about my ventilate airbox, I cut large holes in my intake box, hence I 'ventilated' it.
Too cheap to purchase a proper aftermarket intake.
I did this a long while before this code ever started showing up. I think I need to check the vacuum line behind the intake again, even though my HVAC vents seem to work flawlessly.

 

Fasst Ln,
It sounds like you do not have a description of how the AIR system works and where the components are located? P0410 indicates the problem is common to both the left and right banks of the engine so you should look for a problem at the pump, the AIR pump relay (Relay 33), or the AIR Solenoid (Relay 40) and the hoses/wires connected to them for instance check the hose from the pump to the common connetion to the left and right side AIR lines. Here is the theory of operation so you can understand what is supposed to happen.

The secondary air injection (AIR) System is designed to lower exhaust emission levels on engine start up. The AIR pump runs for approximately 1 minute or until Closed Loop is attained.
The powertrain control module (PCM) commands the AIR pump relay ON by supplying a ground on the relay control circuit. This action energizes the AIR pump, forcing air into the exhaust stream. The PCM also commands the AIR vacuum control solenoid valve ON, which applies engine vacuum to the AIR shut-off valve. When vacuum is applied to the AIR shut-off valve, airflow from the AIR pump flows through the pipes/hoses to the exhaust check valves. The air then enters the exhaust stream. The air that is introduced into the exhaust system decreases the time it takes for the convertor to begin its process of converting the incomplete gases; reducing exhaust emission levels. When inactive, the check valves and the shut-off valve prevent airflow in either direction.
The PCM detects a system airflow problem by monitoring the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) and Short Term Fuel Trim during normal AIR system operation. This is called a passive test. If the passive test indicates a pass, the PCM takes no further action. If the passive test fails or is inconclusive, the diagnostic will proceed with an intrusive or active test. The PCM will command the AIR system ON during closed loop operation under normal operating conditions. The active test will pass or fail based on the response from the HO2S. A lean HO2S response indicates that the secondary AIR system is functioning normally. An increasing Short Term Fuel Trim value also indicates a normally functioning system. The AIR diagnostic consists of the passive test and the active tests. The AIR diagnostic requires failure of the passive and active tests on 2 consecutive key cycles to illuminate the MIL and store a DTC. If the PCM detects that the HO2S and Short Term FT did not respond as expected on one of the engine banks, DTC P0491 or P0492 sets. If the PCM detects that the HO2S and Short Term FT did not respond as expected on both of the engine banks, DTC P0410 sets.

Bill

 

So is it possible that both of my O2 sensors are bad?
After reading your description, I think my system is failing all of the tests, including the secondary tests, hence why it takes about 10 miles of driving for the CEL to come on.


Thanks Bill D.!!!

 

Bill

We have proven that the pump works and air is getting through the check valves. I would have to say that he could have slow responding or bad O2 sensors.

If you have acess to EFI Live or HP Tunes, you can watch the sensors switch.
BC

 

I did have it hooked up to Autotap a couple of days ago and the O2 sensors seemed to be switching fine. Actually, on the Autotap table which listed the left and right bank O2 sensors, it had sensors #1 on each bank listed as "0".

That seemed kind of odd to me. Those are the sensors in front of the cats, right?

 

Just wanted to post the supposed conclusion to this.

Took the car to the dealership since I failed inspection and I'm at a loss for other things to check.

There is a vacuum line that runs under the battery and attaches to the air compressor in the front driver's side of the car. The vacuum is what operates the compressor.

Turns out there was a small hole in my vacuum line near where my battery leaked. The air compressor was not working for the technician, which is really weird because it worked fine at my house.
Supposedly once he replaced the entire vacuum line the compressor started working again. $300 in labor (no parts charge to speak of) and it is supposedly fixed.

If I can now pass inspection, then I'm happy. I just don't understand how the compressor worked fine for me and then didn't work at all for the tech.

 

That vacuum hose is for the AIR Shut Off Valve. Without a vacuum signal, the valve is closed and does not allow exhaust to enter the pump or air out of the pump to enter the exhaust tract. It is possible for the hole/split/crack to be small enough to cause an intermittant issue. Dont you wish you had the old part!?

I guess time will tell. Yea,,,its funny you had gobs of air flow when you tested it!

Hope your $300 fixes it!

BC

 

That was my other thought, that it was intermittent.

Yes, I wish I had the old part!!!


About 30 miles and so far no code. It usually would have shown up by now so hoping this is the fix.

 

I have P0410 as well (sounds like some new disease).
I tried the carb cleaner/WD40 into the check valves about 8 months back with no luck. The CEL is getting on my nerves though. I wonder if I have a faulty vacuum hose also. Don't really feel like dropping $300 on a hose right now though...