Need some help identifing a noise
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: shelton ct
Need some help identifing a noise
Hello All,
I have a clicking noise from my left rear wheel area just as I engage the clutch and the car starts to move. The noise comes in forward and reverse and happens just as the "torque" starts to move the car. The noise isn't there when the car is pushed (forward or backward) in neutral. Only with the car in gear as the "slack" is taken up by the clutch engaging. U-joint? Halfshaft? Any ideas or suggestions.
Brian
I have a clicking noise from my left rear wheel area just as I engage the clutch and the car starts to move. The noise comes in forward and reverse and happens just as the "torque" starts to move the car. The noise isn't there when the car is pushed (forward or backward) in neutral. Only with the car in gear as the "slack" is taken up by the clutch engaging. U-joint? Halfshaft? Any ideas or suggestions.
Brian
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Landisville PA
Hello All,
I have a clicking noise from my left rear wheel area just as I engage the clutch and the car starts to move. The noise comes in forward and reverse and happens just as the "torque" starts to move the car. The noise isn't there when the car is pushed (forward or backward) in neutral. Only with the car in gear as the "slack" is taken up by the clutch engaging. U-joint? Halfshaft? Any ideas or suggestions.
Brian
I have a clicking noise from my left rear wheel area just as I engage the clutch and the car starts to move. The noise comes in forward and reverse and happens just as the "torque" starts to move the car. The noise isn't there when the car is pushed (forward or backward) in neutral. Only with the car in gear as the "slack" is taken up by the clutch engaging. U-joint? Halfshaft? Any ideas or suggestions.
Brian
Jack up the rear-end of the car and rotate each rear wheel by hand (slowly). Jerk it back and forth.... pull it out and push it inward (for play in bearing). Grab each side half shaft by hand and try to move it back-n-forth (again, looking for free play).......
Not the safest thing to do....but get the vehicle up on jackstands and slowly let the clutch out (1st gear) and see if you can hear anything.
My first guess would be something with your U-joints.....
Othe than that...wheel bearing. ??? Just guessing...
When was the last time you had the oil changed in the rear differential?
Just guessing.....
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: shelton ct
Janster,
Thanks for the suggestions. I did the wheel shaking stuff...everything seems tight. Did the jacking up the car and putting it in gear.....no sound. Only makes the sound when the car is on the ground. Guessing CV, u-joint? Hate to take it to dealer not knowing what the problem is before hand. I don't like paying for repairs I can do myself but if I can't figure it out I guess it's off to the dealer.
Anybody else have any ideas?
Brian
Thanks for the suggestions. I did the wheel shaking stuff...everything seems tight. Did the jacking up the car and putting it in gear.....no sound. Only makes the sound when the car is on the ground. Guessing CV, u-joint? Hate to take it to dealer not knowing what the problem is before hand. I don't like paying for repairs I can do myself but if I can't figure it out I guess it's off to the dealer.
Anybody else have any ideas?
Brian
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Landisville PA
Janster,
Thanks for the suggestions. I did the wheel shaking stuff...everything seems tight. Did the jacking up the car and putting it in gear.....no sound. Only makes the sound when the car is on the ground. Guessing CV, u-joint? Hate to take it to dealer not knowing what the problem is before hand. I don't like paying for repairs I can do myself but if I can't figure it out I guess it's off to the dealer.
Anybody else have any ideas?
Brian
Thanks for the suggestions. I did the wheel shaking stuff...everything seems tight. Did the jacking up the car and putting it in gear.....no sound. Only makes the sound when the car is on the ground. Guessing CV, u-joint? Hate to take it to dealer not knowing what the problem is before hand. I don't like paying for repairs I can do myself but if I can't figure it out I guess it's off to the dealer.
Anybody else have any ideas?
Brian
Try driving in tight '8' circles and see if the noise is still there, gets worse, or not..... Oil in the diff good?
Does the clicking stop (or not) when you step on the brakes?
Ebrake good?
Tranny fluid good?
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: dallas tx
take a close look at your sway bar endlinks and see if they are torn to shreds, the sway bar will make this noise when the load of the car is moving forward or backward,almost sounds like a popping noise
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
Don't have to guess on this one..
The noise is caused by the stick/release action of the CV joint hub against the back side of the hub bearing.
You need to get a 33mm socket. Remove the wheel. Remove the axle nut with the socket you just bought. With the car jacked up, you can push the axle in about 1/4 inch. Lubricate the surface on the inside of the hub where the CV hub seats against the back of the bearing. You can also lubricate the spline, but that is not the source of the noise. Some people have sprayed lubricant from the outside, but then your are depending on the lubricant to travel the length of the spline to get to where it is needed.
I used a Q-tip to swab the area with motor oil, but a light grease should also work.
Replace the axle nut and torque to 118 ft.-lbs.
Replace the wheel, and torque lugs to 100 ft.-lbs.
Lower the car... Drive without any more clicking noise..
The noise is caused by the stick/release action of the CV joint hub against the back side of the hub bearing.
You need to get a 33mm socket. Remove the wheel. Remove the axle nut with the socket you just bought. With the car jacked up, you can push the axle in about 1/4 inch. Lubricate the surface on the inside of the hub where the CV hub seats against the back of the bearing. You can also lubricate the spline, but that is not the source of the noise. Some people have sprayed lubricant from the outside, but then your are depending on the lubricant to travel the length of the spline to get to where it is needed.
I used a Q-tip to swab the area with motor oil, but a light grease should also work.
Replace the axle nut and torque to 118 ft.-lbs.
Replace the wheel, and torque lugs to 100 ft.-lbs.
Lower the car... Drive without any more clicking noise..
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Jul 6, 2007 at 11:37 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Don't have to guess on this one..
The noise is caused by the stick/release action of the CV joint hub against the back side of the hub bearing.
You need to get a 33mm socket. Remove the wheel. Remove the axle nut with the socket you just bought. With the car jacked up, you can push the axle in about 1/4 inch. Lubricate the surface on the inside of the hub where the CV hub seats against the back of the bearing. You can also lubricate the spline, but that is not the source of the noise. Some people have sprayed lubricant from the outside, but then your are depending on the lubricant to travel the length of the spline to get to where it is needed.
I used a Q-tip to swab the area with motor oil, but a light grease should also work.
Replace the axle nut and torque to 118 ft.-lbs.
Replace the wheel, and torque lugs to 100 ft.-lbs.
Lower the car... Drive without any more clicking noise..
The noise is caused by the stick/release action of the CV joint hub against the back side of the hub bearing.
You need to get a 33mm socket. Remove the wheel. Remove the axle nut with the socket you just bought. With the car jacked up, you can push the axle in about 1/4 inch. Lubricate the surface on the inside of the hub where the CV hub seats against the back of the bearing. You can also lubricate the spline, but that is not the source of the noise. Some people have sprayed lubricant from the outside, but then your are depending on the lubricant to travel the length of the spline to get to where it is needed.
I used a Q-tip to swab the area with motor oil, but a light grease should also work.
Replace the axle nut and torque to 118 ft.-lbs.
Replace the wheel, and torque lugs to 100 ft.-lbs.
Lower the car... Drive without any more clicking noise..
That would be the very first thing to check!!!
BC
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I wonder if the original poster, ever came back to check for the answer???
Dogface
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 25,974
Likes: 120
From: At the Beach, FL
St. Jude Donor '15, '17
Not sure but I did. I have had this for a while now and it has been annoying. I will get the socket and try this over the weekend. Why does it seem like the drivers side only? What kind of lubricant is best you said motor oil, but that would drip and fly off it seems. Anything better in your opinion? Thanks for this tip. Don
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
Not sure but I did. I have had this for a while now and it has been annoying. I will get the socket and try this over the weekend. Why does it seem like the drivers side only? What kind of lubricant is best you said motor oil, but that would drip and fly off it seems. Anything better in your opinion? Thanks for this tip. DonThe second time, I just used 30 wt oil. I did not put a lot of excess oil in the area. I took a Q-tip, dipped it in oil, and just made sure I coated all the surfaces, and the noise has not come back.
If I had to do it over, I would probably use a light grease to make sure the lubricant stayed in the intended area.
It could just be one side... Mine was on the passenger side. You could do them both at the same time, or just wait to see if the other side ever starts to make a noise.
Dogface
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 25,974
Likes: 120
From: At the Beach, FL
St. Jude Donor '15, '17
I tried it first with just penetrating oil, and that was not heavy enough. The noise went away, but it came back.
The second time, I just used 30 wt oil. I did not put a lot of excess oil in the area. I took a Q-tip, dipped it in oil, and just made sure I coated all the surfaces, and the noise has not come back.
If I had to do it over, I would probably use a light grease to make sure the lubricant stayed in the intended area.
It could just be one side... Mine was on the passenger side. You could do them both at the same time, or just wait to see if the other side ever starts to make a noise.
The second time, I just used 30 wt oil. I did not put a lot of excess oil in the area. I took a Q-tip, dipped it in oil, and just made sure I coated all the surfaces, and the noise has not come back.
If I had to do it over, I would probably use a light grease to make sure the lubricant stayed in the intended area.
It could just be one side... Mine was on the passenger side. You could do them both at the same time, or just wait to see if the other side ever starts to make a noise.
Were your axle nuts tight at the time? I was wondering if this is part of it. Don
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
As I mentioned, I tried just penetrating oil the first time (axle nuts were torqued when reassembled), and the noise came back. I don't think just torquing the nuts will resolve the problem.
That is even easier to test than lubricating the spline. You can retorque the axle nuts without even taking the wheel off.
Dogface
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 25,974
Likes: 120
From: At the Beach, FL
St. Jude Donor '15, '17
The noise was still there, even with the axle nuts correctly torqued.
As I mentioned, I tried just penetrating oil the first time (axle nuts were torqued when reassembled), and the noise came back. I don't think just torquing the nuts will resolve the problem.
That is even easier to test than lubricating the spline. You can retorque the axle nuts without even taking the wheel off.
As I mentioned, I tried just penetrating oil the first time (axle nuts were torqued when reassembled), and the noise came back. I don't think just torquing the nuts will resolve the problem.
That is even easier to test than lubricating the spline. You can retorque the axle nuts without even taking the wheel off.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 4
From: The 7th layer of hell - Western Washington
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: shelton ct
Hello All,
I apologize for not getting back to everyone sooner but I have been having a bit of a battle with cancer and haven't had a chance to try a fix until today. I didn't check for more suggestions until I returned to thank everyone for their input just now. You'll all be happy to know that your guesses of what was causing the problem were correct. I tried the solution offered by C4C5specialist from an old post I found on a search and confirmed the noise was the rust build up on the axle (I wish I had returned to my original post before now to see all your inputs). Any way I just removed the axle nut without even removing the wheel and sprayed some WD40 waited 5 minutes and reinstalled and torqued the nut and the noise is gone. Thanks again to everyone for all the help.
Brian
I apologize for not getting back to everyone sooner but I have been having a bit of a battle with cancer and haven't had a chance to try a fix until today. I didn't check for more suggestions until I returned to thank everyone for their input just now. You'll all be happy to know that your guesses of what was causing the problem were correct. I tried the solution offered by C4C5specialist from an old post I found on a search and confirmed the noise was the rust build up on the axle (I wish I had returned to my original post before now to see all your inputs). Any way I just removed the axle nut without even removing the wheel and sprayed some WD40 waited 5 minutes and reinstalled and torqued the nut and the noise is gone. Thanks again to everyone for all the help.
Brian