Help changing my brake pads
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Dumont NJ
Help changing my brake pads
I have new rotors and Hawk HPS pads that I am going to install tomorrow.
My question is do I need to replace the clips(shims) that are currently on my car?
I see that the GM pads come with new clips so I am confused if I need them or if I can just re use the ones that are on the car?
Any other tips would be great.
My question is do I need to replace the clips(shims) that are currently on my car?
I see that the GM pads come with new clips so I am confused if I need them or if I can just re use the ones that are on the car?
Any other tips would be great.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Dumont NJ
After reading severl posts on this topic, i am now confused about removing the pads and replacing them.
I had my brakes flused around 2,000 miles ago when I first bought car. It is a 99 with 72,000 miles on it. The pads were okay so I just had the dealer fulsh the brake system.
I have new rotors and Hawk pads and I do not understand the part about brake bleeding or compressing the caliper. Can I just compress the pistons with a screw driver or clamp or do I have to remove fuid? I am not comfortable bleeding my own brakes. I am a novice mechanic at best. I did do myown Vararam and short shifter so I feel comfortbale doing a rotor a pad swap.
So, what is the best way to compress the pistons in order the get the new pads on?
I had my brakes flused around 2,000 miles ago when I first bought car. It is a 99 with 72,000 miles on it. The pads were okay so I just had the dealer fulsh the brake system.
I have new rotors and Hawk pads and I do not understand the part about brake bleeding or compressing the caliper. Can I just compress the pistons with a screw driver or clamp or do I have to remove fuid? I am not comfortable bleeding my own brakes. I am a novice mechanic at best. I did do myown Vararam and short shifter so I feel comfortbale doing a rotor a pad swap.
So, what is the best way to compress the pistons in order the get the new pads on?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,058
Likes: 9,820
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
After reading severl posts on this topic, i am now confused about removing the pads and replacing them.
I had my brakes flused around 2,000 miles ago when I first bought car. It is a 99 with 72,000 miles on it. The pads were okay so I just had the dealer fulsh the brake system.
I have new rotors and Hawk pads and I do not understand the part about brake bleeding or compressing the caliper. Can I just compress the pistons with a screw driver or clamp or do I have to remove fuid? I am not comfortable bleeding my own brakes. I am a novice mechanic at best. I did do myown Vararam and short shifter so I feel comfortbale doing a rotor a pad swap.
So, what is the best way to compress the pistons in order the get the new pads on?
I had my brakes flused around 2,000 miles ago when I first bought car. It is a 99 with 72,000 miles on it. The pads were okay so I just had the dealer fulsh the brake system.
I have new rotors and Hawk pads and I do not understand the part about brake bleeding or compressing the caliper. Can I just compress the pistons with a screw driver or clamp or do I have to remove fuid? I am not comfortable bleeding my own brakes. I am a novice mechanic at best. I did do myown Vararam and short shifter so I feel comfortbale doing a rotor a pad swap.
So, what is the best way to compress the pistons in order the get the new pads on?
Once all caliper pistons have been compressed loosen one guide pin bolt on a caliper and rotate the caliper enough to remove and replace the pads then refasten the guide pin bolt. Repeat for each wheel. Once this is done get in the car and slowly pump the brake pedal until the pads are seated against the rotors. Then start the engine and test how the brake pedal feels. Once done check the master and suck the fluid level down to the max level.
Don't worry about trying to loosen the brake lines and letting fluid out of the line when you compress the pistons. That is for **** people and provides no real benefit.
Bill
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
I agree with Bill.. if it has been 2000 miles since your system was flushed.
Remember to clean the caliper guide pin bolts , use blue locktite and torque then to 23 ft-lbs.
You will also need to clean the bracket bolts, use red locktite and torque them to 125 ft-lbs.
Remember to clean the caliper guide pin bolts , use blue locktite and torque then to 23 ft-lbs.
You will also need to clean the bracket bolts, use red locktite and torque them to 125 ft-lbs.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,437
Likes: 59
From: Bay Area (Danville) CA
I am going to be tackling this project soon as well. but im nervous. I have swapped engines and trannies in classic mustangs myself and have done a few things to the c5 (new coolant tank/lines+flush,short shifter,air intake,lowering) but when it comes to brakes, i get worried.
let us know how your swap turns out. good luck.
let us know how your swap turns out. good luck.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,639
Likes: 39
From: Winston-Salem North Carolina
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
The only thing I can add is, when I do brakes I take a piece of paper towel and place it over the master cylinder, make a hole in the P.T. to fit over the opening, just in case some fluid does come up from compressing the caliper. You can replace the stock bleeders with speed bleeders, makes it all the easier.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 67
Likes: 3
From: Anderson SC
Actually, I like using the bleed screws to drain a little fluid cause the most of the fluid deterioration is from heat and it gets hottest right at the caliper. All you need is a short piece of tygon tubing and an empty beer can.
With a recent flush it probably wouldn't help much, but I'm **** anyway.
With a recent flush it probably wouldn't help much, but I'm **** anyway.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Dumont NJ
Thank you all again for your help. The job was not only easy but fun!!
I will post completed pics when I get home from work.
I used a turkey baster to remove a bit of fluid from the master to make room for compressing the calipers. The calper mount bolts are a bitch!!!! The fronts were easier than rear since you can turn your front wheel to get a breaker bar in for leverage but the rears were not fun.
The rotors came off with no issue at all and replacing the pads was simple. I just noted how the old pads were on and replaced them.
After the job was done, 3 hours total with lots of breaks for beer and wife, I went for a ride. I was scared at first since my brakes felt very mushy at first. I pulled over just to make sure they were fine since they felt scary!!!!!!
I went on a open road with no traffric lights and did the break in method and the Hawk HPS are AWESOME!!!!!! Not only dis the breaks feel great, they are quite!
I will post pics later but thank you again to everyone that helped.
I will post completed pics when I get home from work.
I used a turkey baster to remove a bit of fluid from the master to make room for compressing the calipers. The calper mount bolts are a bitch!!!! The fronts were easier than rear since you can turn your front wheel to get a breaker bar in for leverage but the rears were not fun.
The rotors came off with no issue at all and replacing the pads was simple. I just noted how the old pads were on and replaced them.
After the job was done, 3 hours total with lots of breaks for beer and wife, I went for a ride. I was scared at first since my brakes felt very mushy at first. I pulled over just to make sure they were fine since they felt scary!!!!!!
I went on a open road with no traffric lights and did the break in method and the Hawk HPS are AWESOME!!!!!! Not only dis the breaks feel great, they are quite!
I will post pics later but thank you again to everyone that helped.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 109
From: Texas
St. Jude Donor '12
The way to compress the pistons is to use a large C clamp and compress them before removing the pads. As the previous flushing probably brought your fluid level to the max mark you will probably have to suck some fluid out of the master. The way to do this is to slowly compress the pistons on the left front caliper while watching the fluid level in the master. If it looks like it is going to overflow suck some out. Do the same for each other caliper although you will now have an idea how much you can compress them before the level in the master gets too high.
Once all caliper pistons have been compressed loosen one guide pin bolt on a caliper and rotate the caliper enough to remove and replace the pads then refasten the guide pin bolt. Repeat for each wheel. Once this is done get in the car and slowly pump the brake pedal until the pads are seated against the rotors. Then start the engine and test how the brake pedal feels. Once done check the master and suck the fluid level down to the max level.
Don't worry about trying to loosen the brake lines and letting fluid out of the line when you compress the pistons. That is for **** people and provides no real benefit.
Bill
Once all caliper pistons have been compressed loosen one guide pin bolt on a caliper and rotate the caliper enough to remove and replace the pads then refasten the guide pin bolt. Repeat for each wheel. Once this is done get in the car and slowly pump the brake pedal until the pads are seated against the rotors. Then start the engine and test how the brake pedal feels. Once done check the master and suck the fluid level down to the max level.
Don't worry about trying to loosen the brake lines and letting fluid out of the line when you compress the pistons. That is for **** people and provides no real benefit.
Bill
I am going to be replacing my rotors and pads very soon and will by following Bill's advise. Let us know with pics how this turns out.