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LS11 To LS2 Conversion

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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 11:57 AM
  #1  
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Default LS11 To LS2 Conversion

I suspect this question has been asked before, but I have not been able to find the answer.

I have a 99 Coupe (fixed roof) that is bone stock in every respect, which is my preference. The car has relatively low mileage (26K) and is a great driver.

My question is this: Is an LS2 (crate engine configuration with complete induction system) a direct "drop in"? That is, would the existing engine management system work without modification, would my existing exhaust manifolds work, etc.?

I do not want to change the cars driveability in any way, but I would like to have the increased power. Any advice would be welcome.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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Default LS1 to LS2 conversion - requirements

An LS2 will not work with your car because the LS2 crank reluctor wheel has 58 teeth while the LS1 wheel has 24 teeth. You can, however, have an LS2 or similar engine built with the correct reluctor wheel. Other than that there are a few simple wiring mods (plug and play harnesses are readily available at low cost) to allow the knock sensors and cam sensor to work with your computer. I recently put an LS7 in my 2001 (see my post) Z06 and spent less than a crate LS7 from GM. Hope this helps.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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Default Maybe another shortblock?

A lot of the forum vendors sell short blocks that are setup for the 24 tooth reluctor wheel.

You can also swap the reluctor wheel (requires crank removal).

Just about everything will swap over. Electrics all work fine. Just use your '99 knock sensoes/sensors/etc.
Like RennfahrerX said, you will need a few harness adapters/extensions.

Good Luck,
Bob K.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 07:07 PM
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Default

Originally Posted by Bob K
A lot of the forum vendors sell short blocks that are setup for the 24 tooth reluctor wheel.

You can also swap the reluctor wheel (requires crank removal).
So if you're building the motor from scratch using ls2 parts and are "removing" the crank anyway, what needs to be done?
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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From: WTB Kook 2" long tube 4 C5 TEXAS
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good good good
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 11:14 AM
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Default

I'm not trying to be the guy to go off and tell you to do something completely different, but have you considered a very mild cam and heads? You could get comparable or better whp by going with a very mild, undetectable sleeper cam, a nice set of ported LS6 heads (or some nice AFR's), running through stock exhaust manifolds and catback. This would only cost you $3,000 or so if you do the work yourself (and believe me, anyone who has some mechanical skill can do a head/cam swap). There's a thread over at Z06.com showing a FRC build-up into a cloned Z06. He wanted it to appear to be a stock Z06, but he got 410whp out of it through stock Z06 exhaust manifolds. http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showt...t=83571&page=5

My only point is, unless you are just wanting to keep your stock LS1 stored away in stock trim, you can spend the same or less money to have your LS1 churning out upper 300's or 400+ whp all the while sounding stock. This would be a good 40-60whp more than a stock LS6 engine. Just my $0.02. Best of luck in whatever you do...
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 02:47 PM
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Default

Thanks to all. I suspected it would not be as simple as just dropping in a new motor, and I believe I now have a reasonable idea about the problems. I also now have some new ideas to think about as there may be some better (cheaper?) ways to get greater power.
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