Running Really rough after head/cam normal?

Also, check to see if your engine temp reads steady. A broken engine temp sensor plug will cause your engine temp readings to appear to fluctuate and the PCM will comply and adjust fueling to compensate.
If both of those work, you'll need to plug into your PCM and monitor your O2 voltages, and/or just replace your O2 adapter (if you are using the rears in the front location). I suspect your O2 readings are very low <500 mv, thus causing the PCM to dump more fuel in to bring them up.
engine temps are normal and steady, as are the rest of the indicators & gauges on the DIC...
I am using 02 extensions, but I swapped the extensions with the sensors at the same time (new 02 sensors).
I don't have anything to monitor from the ODB port to get the sensor voltages...
maybe it's time to invest in hp tuners or something....
Here's the symptoms/problems..When the car is in open loop operation (engine temp below 140F at startup), everything runs normal...As soon as it heats up and goes into closed loop, it runs like crap (surges & hesitates) at idle & low throttle positions..
changing the throttle position rapidly to 40-50% (strictly guessing) makes it run normal like it should, until you let off the throttle again...It seems like after driving for 20 minutes or so and the problem goes away also....until next time you start it...
ok..lets get to the codes...the only one is P0171 (bank 1 lean code) but i know its definitely not running lean because it is blowing black smoke & black fluid droplets out of the tailpipe..(no cats or mufflers)
I thought the 02 sensor might be the problem, so i swapped them from left to right & vice versa...still the same black smoke out of the drivers side pipes & the same P0171 code.
If there were a vacuum leak in the intake manifold, both sides would be affected...
If there was a leak from left side injector o-ring or intake manifold gasket, this would cause a lean condition, but it should burn all the fuel right??? and not blow black smoke??
Any guesses on what this could be?
Anyone know if getting the right O2 connector on the LEFT O2 sensor and vice versa would cause this? I seem to remember a post about something like this but can't find it. Apparently it is not that hard to get the connectors switched and cause a problem.
Need some of the super sleuths on this forum to jump in here.
Charlie
Last edited by cruisemon; Aug 14, 2007 at 05:40 PM.
Charlie
I was looking though the service manual and saw the pictures of the 02 sensor routing and had realized what i done...
Muncie...you're absolutely right!!...
I'm a dumbass!!!!
thanks for all your help guys!!
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Charlie
I still had it jacked up on blocks, but i got the engine temp up past 170F and everything was working fine!
No codes or crazy idling like before after 140F...

I'll take it out and run the **** out of it tomorrow after i route the wiring to stay off the exhaust pipes...
Funny thing about the 02 sensors...since installing the new headers, my front 02 sensors wouldn't reach..so (being a cheap bastid & not wanting to buy extenders) i decided to cut off the plugs from the longer sensors and just solder the front plugs (rectangular plug) to the longer wires.
when i installed the sensors, i kept thinking of how the rear sensors were crossed and did the same for these (Wrong!!!!!)
Well, it drove like ****, so i just thought it was a tuning issue (since this is my first time to cam anything)
When i took it to conley's they told me both 02's weren't working and that they need to buy new 02's & extensions.
well guess what!!! the 'professionals' did the same thing i did and hooked the new ones up wrong like I had it....the car wasn't running right and he couldn't figure it out after 3 weeks, so i decided to take it home anyways and fix it myself....But he assured me that the tune is in the pcm and once whatever problem is fixed then the tune will be right....
Oh I would have a dyno graph to post, but I was so pissed that i threw it away..Why you ask???? because it was a graph of HP vs time...??? It didn't even show torque or rpm because he said he couldn't get an rpm signal from my plug wires. when i asked how he tuned it then, he said an rpm signal was being fed to the laptop from the ODBII port.
It showed a lowly 400 peak hp (don't ask me how you can get that without torque or rpm) from a mustang dyno.
Is it the right tune? i have no clue...since it was tuned with reversed 02's...


















