Clutch replacement - What needs replaced
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Omaha NE
Clutch replacement - What needs replaced
I think someone mentioned to me that the slave cylinder should be replaced?
I'm going to go with the C6 Z06 clutch setup I think (flywheel, pressure plate, to bearing, and clutch disc) but is there anything else I need to upgrade?
I plan on running a 100shot nitrous setup for an event and then going with a 450hp all motor setup.
Thanks!
I'm going to go with the C6 Z06 clutch setup I think (flywheel, pressure plate, to bearing, and clutch disc) but is there anything else I need to upgrade?
I plan on running a 100shot nitrous setup for an event and then going with a 450hp all motor setup.
Thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
I've used a few of those clutches, they don't work well when slipped
the Textralia OZ700 will take the abuse from the 100 shot, we have them in stock, give us a call
either way a new slave is a MUST, also replace the pilot bearing
the Textralia OZ700 will take the abuse from the 100 shot, we have them in stock, give us a call
either way a new slave is a MUST, also replace the pilot bearing
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 931
Likes: 35
From: Rowlett, Texas
Kyle, If no one has mentioned it before, be very careful with balancing when changing the clutch and flywheel. I don't know about the later C5's (don't know your year) but I have personal experience with a balancing nitemare on a 2000. The flywheel on mine had a balance weight in it from the factory, the dealer mechanic didn't know about it, and pulled the flywheel without marking the weight location. We went through 5 flywheel/clutch setups fighting serious vibration; finally the factory rep came down with exotic strobe equipment and got it pretty close. Putting a perfectly balanced flywheel/clutch on these earlier C5's often just won't cut it - you have to know if the factory unit was externally balanced, and duplicate that on the new setup.
DG
DG
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Go with a new master too and a remote bleeder.
When you remove, mark every part as to location so you can re-assemble the stock unit once its out. I put in a Tex after looking at the LS7, but I didn't like the LS7 flywheel weight and it will soften the lower RPM response of the motor. The Tex is zero balanced as a unit and will bolt right in. As long as your motor didn't use the clutch assembly to do a final motor balance at the factory you will be OK, otherwise you will need to re-balance to the stock unit which is why you need to mark and re-assemble in case you have to get the amount "out of balance" the stock unit is from the factory. From what I understand, the motors that had out of balance clutch assemblies to correct the motor were rare but did happen.
When you remove, mark every part as to location so you can re-assemble the stock unit once its out. I put in a Tex after looking at the LS7, but I didn't like the LS7 flywheel weight and it will soften the lower RPM response of the motor. The Tex is zero balanced as a unit and will bolt right in. As long as your motor didn't use the clutch assembly to do a final motor balance at the factory you will be OK, otherwise you will need to re-balance to the stock unit which is why you need to mark and re-assemble in case you have to get the amount "out of balance" the stock unit is from the factory. From what I understand, the motors that had out of balance clutch assemblies to correct the motor were rare but did happen.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 32
From: Central Florida
Some thoughts.
Avoid the LS7 clutch. Have one in my C6Z w/ 450 rwhp. All LS7 clutches at this power level refuse to accept anything but a very fast pedal release and won't accept a launch rpm over 3600 without glazing.
No matter what, the flywheel must be scribed before removal. The new flywheel must be installed in the same orientation as the old one. If that's not done, the FW will vibrate.
Many, many stock LS1/LS6 motors required balance pins on the flywheel to "balance the motor." Those weights and their positioning must be taken into account in the new clutch assembly. Only way to do that is proper balancing of the new to the old. Failure to do that will result in post-installation vibrations.
Pick your clutch installer with the same care you would a surgeon to work on your brain. Everything the car does depends on the clutch. Many clutch installs are botched. Do a search on the terms "Clutch" AND "Vibration" and then set aside some reading time.
Finally, suggest replacing 100% of the clutch and clutch hydraulic components. Also suggest reading this: Taking Care of Your Clutch
Ranger
Avoid the LS7 clutch. Have one in my C6Z w/ 450 rwhp. All LS7 clutches at this power level refuse to accept anything but a very fast pedal release and won't accept a launch rpm over 3600 without glazing.
No matter what, the flywheel must be scribed before removal. The new flywheel must be installed in the same orientation as the old one. If that's not done, the FW will vibrate.
Many, many stock LS1/LS6 motors required balance pins on the flywheel to "balance the motor." Those weights and their positioning must be taken into account in the new clutch assembly. Only way to do that is proper balancing of the new to the old. Failure to do that will result in post-installation vibrations.
Pick your clutch installer with the same care you would a surgeon to work on your brain. Everything the car does depends on the clutch. Many clutch installs are botched. Do a search on the terms "Clutch" AND "Vibration" and then set aside some reading time.
Finally, suggest replacing 100% of the clutch and clutch hydraulic components. Also suggest reading this: Taking Care of Your Clutch
Ranger
Last edited by Ranger; Jul 25, 2007 at 08:38 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Omaha NE
Some thoughts.
Avoid the LS7 clutch. Have one in my C6Z w/ 450 rwhp. All LS7 clutches at this power level refuse to accept anything but a very fast pedal release and won't accept a launch rpm over 3600 without glazing.
No matter what, the flywheel must be scribed before removal. The new flywheel must be installed in the same orientation as the old one. If that's not done, the FW will vibrate.
Many, many stock LS1/LS6 motors required balance pins on the flywheel to "balance the motor." Those weights and their positioning must be taken into account in the new clutch assembly. Only way to do that is proper balancing of the new to the old. Failure to do that will result in post-installation vibrations.
Pick your clutch installer with the same care you would a surgeon to work on your brain. Everything the car does depends on the clutch. Many clutch installs are botched. Do a search on the terms "Clutch" AND "Vibration" and then set aside some reading time.
Finally, suggest replacing 100% of the clutch and clutch hydraulic components. Also suggest reading this: Taking Care of Your Clutch
Ranger
Avoid the LS7 clutch. Have one in my C6Z w/ 450 rwhp. All LS7 clutches at this power level refuse to accept anything but a very fast pedal release and won't accept a launch rpm over 3600 without glazing.
No matter what, the flywheel must be scribed before removal. The new flywheel must be installed in the same orientation as the old one. If that's not done, the FW will vibrate.
Many, many stock LS1/LS6 motors required balance pins on the flywheel to "balance the motor." Those weights and their positioning must be taken into account in the new clutch assembly. Only way to do that is proper balancing of the new to the old. Failure to do that will result in post-installation vibrations.
Pick your clutch installer with the same care you would a surgeon to work on your brain. Everything the car does depends on the clutch. Many clutch installs are botched. Do a search on the terms "Clutch" AND "Vibration" and then set aside some reading time.
Finally, suggest replacing 100% of the clutch and clutch hydraulic components. Also suggest reading this: Taking Care of Your Clutch
Ranger
Go with a new master too and a remote bleeder.
When you remove, mark every part as to location so you can re-assemble the stock unit once its out. I put in a Tex after looking at the LS7, but I didn't like the LS7 flywheel weight and it will soften the lower RPM response of the motor. The Tex is zero balanced as a unit and will bolt right in. As long as your motor didn't use the clutch assembly to do a final motor balance at the factory you will be OK, otherwise you will need to re-balance to the stock unit which is why you need to mark and re-assemble in case you have to get the amount "out of balance" the stock unit is from the factory. From what I understand, the motors that had out of balance clutch assemblies to correct the motor were rare but did happen.
When you remove, mark every part as to location so you can re-assemble the stock unit once its out. I put in a Tex after looking at the LS7, but I didn't like the LS7 flywheel weight and it will soften the lower RPM response of the motor. The Tex is zero balanced as a unit and will bolt right in. As long as your motor didn't use the clutch assembly to do a final motor balance at the factory you will be OK, otherwise you will need to re-balance to the stock unit which is why you need to mark and re-assemble in case you have to get the amount "out of balance" the stock unit is from the factory. From what I understand, the motors that had out of balance clutch assemblies to correct the motor were rare but did happen.
Thank you both for this information! Very helpful!
What else besides the Slave and Master cylinder should be replaced with the hydraulics?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
I would go with a DOT 4 fluid, I went with Motul 600 to try and increase my dry/wet boiling points without breaking the bank. The bleeder is important though, and there was a thread recently on an updated bleeder setup that looks pretty good, the originator of the remote bleeder posted it but that "age" thing has set in and I can't remember who it was 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
maybe an Elite Engineering tunnel plate, but that's just a freebie install while the original is removed
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver Washington
Kyle, If no one has mentioned it before, be very careful with balancing when changing the clutch and flywheel. I don't know about the later C5's (don't know your year) but I have personal experience with a balancing nitemare on a 2000. The flywheel on mine had a balance weight in it from the factory, the dealer mechanic didn't know about it, and pulled the flywheel without marking the weight location. We went through 5 flywheel/clutch setups fighting serious vibration; finally the factory rep came down with exotic strobe equipment and got it pretty close. Putting a perfectly balanced flywheel/clutch on these earlier C5's often just won't cut it - you have to know if the factory unit was externally balanced, and duplicate that on the new setup.
DG
DG
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 32
From: Central Florida
Around the periphery of a GM flywheel are a series of machined holes.
If the engine is externally balanced, one or more of the holes is filled by a "balance pin." There are two or three lengths of pin that can give different weights to a that particular hole. The pins are driven into the hole for a tension fit slightly below the surface of the flywheel.
In this picture, the flywheel has two balance pins installed.
The only way to determine if a flywheel has balance pins installed is by visual inspection.
Ranger
