Well i drove home from another town about 70 miles away everything was fine the whole drive, i had plenty of gas as i had filled up before i left on my trip. I make it home im pulling off on my highway off ramp exit, i come to a stop with the clutch pushed in and the car dies, the rpms just dropped to zero. I immediately tried to start it again and it seemed like it was starving for gas or spark or something, bc i had to actually fluctuate the throttle to get it to start, as i continue to drive home i notice that every time i clutch in the revs drop very fast and it almost dies but i never really gave it the opportunity to i continually gave it gas to keep the revs up, i got home and popped the hood and there was again a horrible ticking noise, this sounds very similar to broken rocker arm but i checked them all and even pulled the pushrods on the side that the noise seems to be coming from and nothing; i really cant tell if any of the valve springs are cracked bc they are duals. So im stumped i got the codes from my DIC and i got P0352H thru P0358H which is ignition control circuit. So basically can anyone decipher what is going on here. Could this be a broken or fouled spark plug, bad fuel, blown motor. Let me know what you think guys

 

Oh just one more thing, im running a boost pressure gauge(car is not sc) and a fuel pressure gauge, the boost pressure gauge is running about 3 psi lower than normal at idle, like 17 instead of 20 and the fuel pressure gauge is running at about 1-2psi lower like 38 or so when normally at idle it is 40, didnt know if this information would help.. Thanks again

 

I'll have to check a little more info on the codes when I get home but just for the record your getting P0352, P0353, P0354, P0355, P0356, P0357 + P0358?

Your fuel pressure should be 55 - 60 psi, why are you only seeing 40 as normal?

 

I will investigate the codes also! Is the car running normaly except for dieing when yopu come to a stop??

A secondary ignition issue wont normaly set a code other than a P-0300, which is a cylinder misfire. Do you ever see the check engine light (CEL) flash when you driving??

BC

 

my check light is always on due to issues with the motor swap but it never flashes or anything like that

 

The car does not run normally at all, i listed in the beginning post, Loud clicking that seems to be in a pattern, and dying, all the power still seems to be there, and when it idles at about the same area it always has, except when rev it up, the rpms will respond to the throttle but then they just fall to zero on the way back to idle...could i have a fouled or broken spark plug

 

The P035x codes indicate one or more coils are suffering one of the following problems ...

The ignition control circuit is experiencing
- Grounded
- Open
- Short to voltage

You need to check the wiring of the IC curcuit from the PCM to the coils. If the wiring all checks out, the coil(s) need replacing. If you need the diagnostic steps for the wiring post a reply.

One other possible problem is when you say you have a loud clicking in a pattern ?? Sounds like you may have one (or more) spark plug wires either loose (not attached properly at coil or plug) or grounding. Check all the wires for a good connection, and if the clicking (snapping maybe?) sound continues, inspect the engine (while it is running) in the dark. If a plug cable is grounding (arcing) you should be able to see it in the dark.

 

Yes i would like the info on the wiring, its really weird i went out today and checked some bases, i replaced all the rockers on one side and checked all the pushrods, as well as springs, and everything looks fine. i took out the three of the four spark plugs and they all look healthy, i felt for air coming out of the dip stick as a check for a cracked piston and still nothing, right now i have the drivers side valve cover off and everything looks fine, However there is definitely more fuel coming out of the drivers side exhaust pipe or liquid could this mean something???? i guess im going to go back out and check the spark plugs on that side , IF anyone has any more ideas ill take them

 

Just curious what issues are causing your light to always be on?

 

i dont have any cats, i dont have traction control stupid **** like that, honestly the only thing i am worried about is the loud ticking, the lose of boost pressure and the fact that one of my spark plugs cylinder # 5 is darker than the rest????

 

runamuk, I'm guessing the P035x codes are doing it, as after the second ignition cycle of this failure the Service Manual says it will illuminate the MIL (Check Engine).

 

I still think the ticking (is it more like a "SNAP" kinda sound ??) is related to a bad plug wire. Either the wire is not connected cleanly either to the coil or the plug, or it is arcing to something like your exhaust manifold.

I'll post the wiring diags in the next post.

 

well when you say snapping, my sound is like a clacking more, would the snapping be more like an use a electric sound??? would a bad sparkplug/wire cause a drop in boost pressure

 

Using a Digital MultiMeter (DMM) perform the following ...

1) Turn OFF the engine
2) Disconnect the respective electrical connector of the coil,
3) Start the engine
4) Connect the DMM, select the DC Hertz setting and measure the frequency of the IC curcuit (1= PPL, 2= RED/WHT 3=LT BLU 4= DK GRN/WT 5= DK GRN 6= LT BLU/WHT 7= RED 8= PPL/WHT wires according to my wiring diagram). You should get a reading of between 3 to 20 Hz.
5) If correct ... go to step 12
6) If incorrect - measure the voltage of the IC circuit - you should get 1 volt. If OK go to next step. If more than 1 volt go to step 19
7) Turn OFF the ignition
8) Disconnect the PCM connector
9) Connect the DMM and test for continuity in wiring between PCM and Coil. If no continuity go to step 20.
10) If good continuity then test for a short to ground
11) If good continuity and no ground short inspect PCM connection for poor connection
12) Turn ON the ignition with the engine OFF
13) Connect a test lamp to the battery ground and test the ignition 1 voltage circuit (Pink). The lamp should light. If not go to step 15.
14) Connect the test lamp to the BLACK connection off the coil ... test lamp should light. If YES go to step 17. If NO go to step 16
15) If no repair the open in the IGN1 voltage circuit - problem fixed
16) If no repair the open in the IC ground circuit - problem fixed
17) Inspect for poor connections at the IC harness connector.
18) Replace the Ignition Coil - problem fixed ? No - go to step 21
19) Repair the IC circuit for a short to voltage.
20) Repair the IC circuit for an open circuit
21) Replace PCM

Hope this helps

 

Tonight when the sun goes down start your car and open the hood, you'll see if the spark is arcing to anything.

 

Your probably right, but I was just curious because he made a couple of important statements like "check engine light is always on since my engine swap"

So (and no offence to the OP) the first thing I though is someone hacked up a harness to make an engine run.

But your right eliminating the cats won't cause the engine to run bad or a bad ignition problem which is what sounds like he has.

 

Ive been running this swap for about 2 years now, the problem that i have is the ticking/snapping/sounding like something needs wd40 in the valvetrain noise, i really think that is the root, Everything in my valve train looks fine tho....I replaced the one spark plug i feared was fouled, but nothing.....Here is exactly what is happening now, The car will start fine when cool, idle fine also, when i rev the motor it revs fine, from the moment i start the car there is a horrid non electrical sounding clacking, almost like a scrapping and ticking mixed, which is coming from the passengers side it seems, however there is raw fuel coming out of my drivers side exhaust not a lot but more than the passenger side definitely bc i can see streaks in my driveway from it, When it runs for a while or i rev it higher than 3500rpms its drops below its normal idle point is 1100rpms, kinda struggles around 400rpm then just dies, it sounds like its just chocking out kind of, ideas????????? When i try to restart it, i have to give it gas to get it to start

 

Also as i increase the revs the sound gets louder, and sometimes the sound changes almost to like a wobble sound, which i would describe as a sound a tennis shoe makes on a basketball court(scuffing sound) along with a ticking, man im getting furious

 

I've given you ideas ... what more do you want ?????

1) Check the engine in darkness and see if there is arcing from one or more spark plug cables.

2) Follow the diagnostics I listed to see where the problem is in the IC circuit. FIX IT.

Further whining without trying diagnostics and/or listing any DTCs stored in the PCM won't get you very far. We can throw "ideas" at you all day but until you try some diagnostics all we're doing is guessing.

To list the DTCs stored in the car follow the following procedure ....

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=26&TopicID=1

list them here ....

Someone can look them up and help you.

 

I have tried you method, those codes never came back and considering they where all history codes, i really dont think thats gonna be the problem...i was just trying to provide further information about the problem so that maybe someone could give me an answer to whats wrong, honestly BlackZ06 you have given me no more information that what i have provided in the first post, i listed the codes, i also looked them up and knew they where Ignition control circuits...so if you want to give me viable information i can towards fixing my car id appreciate it however, IF YOU WANT TO BE AN ******* PLEASE TAKE IT TO ANOTHER THREAD INTERNET MECHANIC