Need help installing valve seals.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 8
From: Boise Idaho
St. Jude Donor '07
Need help installing valve seals.
I'm in the process of installing some new valve seals with my new springs and rockers.
I just finished the passenger side, and I'm a little worried that I might not have installed them right.
I just slid them on using a plastic cap over where the keepers sit, and pushed them down against thier seats by hand. When pushing them on by hand, they don't bottom out and there is a gap between the heads.
I have another set of heads in the garage, and the seals on those aren't based out either, is this ok? I just don't want them to leak or slide out of place.
Whats the best way to install the valve seals correctly?
Thanks.
I just finished the passenger side, and I'm a little worried that I might not have installed them right.
I just slid them on using a plastic cap over where the keepers sit, and pushed them down against thier seats by hand. When pushing them on by hand, they don't bottom out and there is a gap between the heads.
I have another set of heads in the garage, and the seals on those aren't based out either, is this ok? I just don't want them to leak or slide out of place.
Whats the best way to install the valve seals correctly?
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 8
From: Boise Idaho
St. Jude Donor '07
It looks like the seals that are currently on the heads (LPE installed) aren't based out either, but they are closer than I've been able to get them by hand.
I just did two more with a 12mm deep socket and pushed them on by hand, and was able to get them to the same position as the LPE installed seals.
Should I redo the passenger side that I did by hand, or will they be ok? Any experts out there?
I just did two more with a 12mm deep socket and pushed them on by hand, and was able to get them to the same position as the LPE installed seals.
Should I redo the passenger side that I did by hand, or will they be ok? Any experts out there?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Use a socket of size that fits over the rubber and contacts the metal portion of the seal. Lubricate and tap down gently, you will hear a change in sound when it bottoms. There is also a measurement in the service manual for a correctly installed seal to ensure it is fully bottomed.
Last edited by vettenuts; Aug 1, 2007 at 04:51 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I used a 12mm deep 6pt socket on mine last year and have not had any problems.
Considered the potentially pesky side effects of a seal not fully seated, and the amount of work involved in replacing, I would recommend going back and double checking the seals you did by hand.
Considered the potentially pesky side effects of a seal not fully seated, and the amount of work involved in replacing, I would recommend going back and double checking the seals you did by hand.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
I used a 12mm deep 6pt socket on mine last year and have not had any problems.
Considered the potentially pesky side effects of a seal not fully seated, and the amount of work involved in replacing, I would recommend going back and double checking the seals you did by hand.
Considered the potentially pesky side effects of a seal not fully seated, and the amount of work involved in replacing, I would recommend going back and double checking the seals you did by hand.
Had them come off twice on my daughter's old Nissan, a total pain in the butt. Burned oil like a furnace. Turned out the aftermarket valve seals from the local parts store wouldn't stay on and the Nissan OEM's in the end fixed the problem.
