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More electrical Ghosts - car down.

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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 10:13 PM
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Default More electrical Ghosts - car down.

Went to go somewhere after driving home tonight, here's what it did:

Door chime going off without key in ignition or lights on
Column lock failure message
Started up, then stalled out once rolling
Coolant temp goes all the way to red, "coolant overtemp message"
Read codes, no bcm codes stored, did recover a PO117 from the PCM though which is for ECT sensor signal missing. No other codes.

I have serviced a couple of the problematic ground connections already, but I may still have more grounding issues? Has a module totally crapped the bed on me? This came up all of the sudden, nothing like this has happened in the 3.5 years I've had the car. I do have a column lock bypass installed, but doubt that is the problem because of the random ECT failure....
HELP!! My car doesn't work!!!
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 10:18 PM
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Start with the most common issue, checking the battery. A low battery will cause all sorts of havoc. Check the battery connections too!
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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Battery is good, no acid leakage, not very old at all, alternator charging, battery voltage plenty sufficient (14ish volts running) terminals tight.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 06:10 AM
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ttt
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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Also check for any signs of water or moisture anywhere around the BCM. Double check the connector on the ECT too while your at it.
HTH
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Also check for any signs of water or moisture anywhere around the BCM. Double check the connector on the ECT too while your at it.
HTH

Alright buddy, I'll check those things out. Thanks for the help, I also have a couple ground connections I wanted to inspect and service, hopefully I'll find the cause. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 06:04 PM
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Ok: I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes this afternoon, and also removed my column lock bypass and reconnected the column lock as original. Thought that my CLB may have been the problem. I have checked the Grounds at the A pillars and on the engine block and on the front frame rails and by the battery. All is well with Grounds. Reconnected battery and started it up, still get pull key message and service column lock. Noted the column lock did function ok. Still cuts the engine once the car starts rolling. Read codes: Get RFA P01096 H, P01016 H, P01064 H, and also TCS U1255 I believe it was. That's it. ECT and temp gauge seems to be working normally now and that code didn't return. I also verified with a dealer that all recalls have been performed.

So now what do we think? My dealer did mention that there is a bulletin that could be performed that recently came out?

I'm just bummed because I think my car will have to be towed..... NOT looking foreword to that.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by servohead
Ok: I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes this afternoon, and also removed my column lock bypass and reconnected the column lock as original. Thought that my CLB may have been the problem. I have checked the Grounds at the A pillars and on the engine block and on the front frame rails and by the battery. All is well with Grounds. Reconnected battery and started it up, still get pull key message and service column lock. Noted the column lock did function ok. Still cuts the engine once the car starts rolling. Read codes: Get RFA P01096 H, P01016 H, P01064 H, and also TCS U1255 I believe it was. That's it. ECT and temp gauge seems to be working normally now and that code didn't return. I also verified with a dealer that all recalls have been performed.

So now what do we think? My dealer did mention that there is a bulletin that could be performed that recently came out?

I'm just bummed because I think my car will have to be towed..... NOT looking foreword to that.
Get your CLB back on. The U1016, U1064 and U1096 codes (you probably have an "H" suffix on them indicating "history") from the RFA system are totally meaningless and are transient in nature only. I and many others have been getting them randomly for years and even GM says to disregard them if you are not experiencing any RFA problems.
You didn't mention anything about inspecting for any signs of moisture/water in and around the BCM area. Check that out.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 08:34 PM
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Yes, 10-4, I did check for moisture and water damage to the BCM and connectors. Unplugged them all and found no corrosion at all. I have made a habit out of keeping my cowl drains clear since I got the car knowing of that issue. Thanks for the idea though. ..... C4C5tech said on corvettemechanic.com that he'd bet I have a faulty ignition switch.

A) Does a new ignition switch have to be programmed into the vehicle?

B) How many Column lock bypass failures have we seen? Mine has been fine for over a year now.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 09:04 PM
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If it were me, here is what I would do. Clear any and all DTC Codes. Reinstall the column lock as per the procedure that came with the CLB. You will need the 12 VDC jumper cable to correctly park the column lock motor. Once the CLB is installed recheck for DTC's and clear them.

C5's have a known issues with the door wiring harnesses. Some of the plugs get exposed wires where they enter the plug. I would remove the rubber accordion tubes between both doors and pull the connectors up and out for inspection. The wire in question is the serial buss wire and if it shorts out, all kinds of strange things happen

Here is what you will see :





Look for bare wires. If you find any secure them. I use liquid electrical tape to cover the wires.

Let us know how you make out.

BC
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
If it were me, here is what I would do. Clear any and all DTC Codes. Reinstall the column lock as per the procedure that came with the CLB. You will need the 12 VDC jumper cable to correctly park the column lock motor. Once the CLB is installed recheck for DTC's and clear them.

C5's have a known issues with the door wiring harnesses. Some of the plugs get exposed wires where they enter the plug. I would remove the rubber accordion tubes between both doors and pull the connectors up and out for inspection. The wire in question is the serial buss wire and if it shorts out, all kinds of strange things happen

Here is what you will see :





Look for bare wires. If you find any secure them. I use liquid electrical tape to cover the wires.

Let us know how you make out.

BC
Forgot about that one Bill.
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Old Aug 4, 2007 | 02:05 PM
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Thank you very much for all of your help guys, and C4C5 - Last night I did the humble thing to do and just had the darn car towed to my local chevy dealer. Maybe if it is that ignition lock it will be covered under warranty. And the door harness wires looked ok - thanks for that tip.

It's a tough thing to be a technician and have your car towed because you couldn't fix it. Oh well! I tried.

thanks again.


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Old Aug 4, 2007 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by servohead
Thank you very much for all of your help guys, and C4C5 - Last night I did the humble thing to do and just had the darn car towed to my local chevy dealer. Maybe if it is that ignition lock it will be covered under warranty. And the door harness wires looked ok - thanks for that tip.

It's a tough thing to be a technician and have your car towed because you couldn't fix it. Oh well! I tried.

thanks again.


Let us hear from you with results of your situation.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 08:07 PM
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Ok, got my car back today. They removed my column lock simulator found that the problem was still there. Complied with campaign 05081 and had to remove the steering wheel, replace lock plate, and replace relay harness pn 89023816.

What goes wrong with this harness? Does it get chafed or develop poor connections? Also, is this what caused my ECT problems? Will I still need an ignition lock? Would you advise me to put the column lock bypass back in?

Car drives fine now it appears.
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