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Power steering cuts out, WTF?

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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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Default Power steering cuts out, WTF?

Has anyone else had this happen to them, and what could it be?

Today I was driving on the freeway, when I thought I noticed my steering tighten up, then I exited the freeway and went to a secluded back road to see if something was wrong...and my power steering tightened up around the first corner, and again when hitting faster speeds, then it just came back on.

I can feel my steering wheel tighten up, almost like my power steering cuts off, then comes back on.

Fluid was full and the car didn't flash any problems on the dash.

This can be a serious issue, trying to steer into a turn with power steering, losing the power steering, needing more force to hold/turn the wheel, then it just re-engages and the car jerks from the force of my hands on the steering wheel.

I'm not driving the car until I get some feedback from the forum and ulitmately take the car to my mechanic.

Any ideas?

Much appreciated,
J

Last edited by Johnny Hardcore; Aug 2, 2007 at 12:09 AM.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 12:25 AM
  #2  
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A few ideas--
Check for leaking waterpump causing belt to slip
Check crank pulley/dampner (may be coming apart)
Belt tensioner
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Hardcore
Has anyone else had this happen to them, and what could it be?

Today I was driving on the freeway, when I thought I noticed my steering tighten up, then I exited the freeway and went to a secluded back road to see if something was wrong...and my power steering tightened up around the first corner, and again when hitting faster speeds, then it just came back on.

I can feel my steering wheel tighten up, almost like my power steering cuts off, then comes back on.

Fluid was full and the car didn't flash any problems on the dash.

This can be a serious issue, trying to steer into a turn with power steering, losing the power steering, needing more force to hold/turn the wheel, then it just re-engages and the car jerks from the force of my hands on the steering wheel.

I'm not driving the car until I get some feedback from the forum and ulitmately take the car to my mechanic.

Any ideas?

Much appreciated,
J
Check for codes on the DIC yourself. Might be a problem with MagnaSteer system or the actual rack and pinion unit itself. Get to someone with a Tech II (usually the stealers) so the system can be checked out. The pump itself may also be on the edge of trying to freeze/seize up as well.
HTH
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 09:50 AM
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Thanks all! It's going up on the lift in an hour, we will take a look at all you have described. If we can't find it...stealership it is.

Last edited by Johnny Hardcore; Aug 2, 2007 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 12:19 PM
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My dads tahoe had the same problem. You would steer around a gradual bend and then the power steering would suddenly be really easy to steer the wheel and you would over steer and jerk the car. In his case is was the steering wheel sensor. It controls the variable power steering valve in the pump. Seemed to be a common problem once I looked it up on the internet. I filed a safety repot with NHTSA since you could almost roll the truck by accident.

I would say it might be the same thing, or the power steering pump, rack or variable valve might be to blame.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Hardcore
Thanks all! It's going up on the lift in an hour, we will take a look at all you have described. If we can't find it...stealership it is.
Keep us posted.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 01:26 PM
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Well, just had my car scanned and 0 codes came up. As previously mentioned, my mechanics scanner may not have been able to recongnize the code. I may have to bite the bullet and go to the dealership for this one.

After getting some feedback from a few of the helpfull members on this forum and a little google action I found that the steering wheel sensor may very well be the problem.

No matter how I twist and turn it (no pun intended) the steering wheel sensor fix or the PS pump replacement is going to run me around $300 to $400. Not what I needed after rebuilding the motor and drive train for $10k last month.

Oh...honey.... I need to spend a few more dollars on the car this month...

I'll keep you all posted once I get it figured out.

Thanks again!

Last edited by Johnny Hardcore; Aug 2, 2007 at 01:29 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 12:38 PM
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Any news?
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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Sometimes in an HPDE (track) scenario the PS will go out in turns... this is your frist sight the pump is going south.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 08:21 PM
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My steering was doing the samething and I couldn't figure it out, then the car started to overheat, I opened the hood to find the power steering pulley spun off the pump. The plastic pulley broke from the metal sleave that's pressed on the shaft.

Last edited by coanan; Aug 8, 2007 at 09:37 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 09:42 PM
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The same thing was happening to my cousin. It was his water pump locking up causing the belt to slip. Check your water ump also. Good luck!
MIKE
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 10:05 PM
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This is probably not what's happening but it happened to me...

The hose from the reservoir swelled up and actually had the layers split internally so that the layer inside the braiding separated from the outside and created an internal hose within. That by itself wouldn't cause an issue but the inner tube deformed enough that it basically created an internal valve. I'd get what felt like low fluid symptoms and then it would go away... that and exactly what you described.

What color is your fluid? Before I realized what was happening my fluid would get black quick..

Arnel
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 10:54 PM
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"After getting some feedback from a few of the helpfull members on this forum and a little google action I found that the steering wheel sensor may very well be the problem."

I doubt the high precision steering wheel position sensor, if you are talking about it, had anything to do with it. That will affect the Active Handling only as far as I know.
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Hardcore
Well, just had my car scanned and 0 codes came up. As previously mentioned, my mechanics scanner may not have been able to recongnize the code. I may have to bite the bullet and go to the dealership for this one.

After getting some feedback from a few of the helpfull members on this forum and a little google action I found that the steering wheel sensor may very well be the problem.

No matter how I twist and turn it (no pun intended) the steering wheel sensor fix or the PS pump replacement is going to run me around $300 to $400. Not what I needed after rebuilding the motor and drive train for $10k last month.

Oh...honey.... I need to spend a few more dollars on the car this month...

I'll keep you all posted once I get it figured out.

Thanks again!
You can use the On Board Diagnostics to read the code without a scanner. Push and Hold the Options button while pressing the Fuel Button 4 times to see the codes. Your mechanic may be like a lot of the small shops and only has a scanner that can read engine codes. Real scanners cost about $4K so most small shops do not have them.

Here is an example of what can be wrong.

DTC C1241 Magnasteer Malfunction

Circuit Description
The Speed dependent Steering System (MAGNASTEER) incorporates its controller into the EBTCM. The EBTCM controls the amount of current supplied to the MAGNASTEER actuator based on input from the wheel speed sensors and based on the steering wheel position sensor.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
One or both of the MAGNASTEER actuator circuit wires become open or shorted.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
A malfunction DTC is stored. No ABS/TCS indicator lamps are turned ON but MAGNASTEER is disabled. ABS/TCS remains functional.

Conditions for Clearing the DTC
• A history DTC will clear after 100 consecutive ignition cycles if the condition for the malfunction is no longer present.
• The On-Board Diagnostic (clearing DTCs) feature
• Using a scan tool

Diagnostic Aids
• The following conditions may cause an intermittent malfunction to occur:
o A poor connection
o A rubbed through wire insulation
o A broken wire inside the insulation
• Check the frequency of the malfunction by using the enhanced diagnostic function of the scan tool. Refer to Enhanced Diagnostics
• Check the following for all circuitry suspected as causing the intermittent complaint:
o Check for backed out terminals
o Check for improper mating
o Check for broken locks
o Check for improperly formed terminals
o Check for damaged terminals
o Check for poor terminal to wiring connections
o Check for physical damage to the wiring harness

Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table:
2. This test checks if there is a short to ground in CKT 345.
3. This test checks if there is a short to ground in CKT 1787.
4. This test checks if there is a short to voltage in CKT 345.
5. This test checks if there is a short to voltage in CKT 345.
6. This test checks the MAGNASTEER actuator for an internal open.
7. This test checks the MAGNASTEER actuator for an internal short to ground.
8. This test checks if there is an open in CKT 345.
9. This test checks if there is an open in CKT 1787.
Step Action Value(s) Yes No
1 Was the Diagnostic System Check performed? -- Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check in ABS Brakes - Delco/Bosch
2
1. Disconnect the EBTCM harness connector.
2. Install J 39700 Universal Pin Out Box with J 39700-25 cable Adapter to the EBTCM harness connector only.
3. Check for voltage between the EBTCM pins E and F using the J 39200.
Is the voltage within the range specified in the Value(s) column? Greater than 1 Volt Go to Step 11
Go to Step 3

3
Use the J 39200 check for voltage between the EBTCM pins E and C.
Is the voltage within the range specified in the Value(s) column? Greater than 1 Volt Go to Step 12
Go to Step 4

4
1. Turn the ignition to ON.
2. Check for voltage between the EBTCM pins B and F.
Is the voltage within the range specified in the Value(s) column? Greater than 1 Volt Go to Step 13
Go to Step 5

5
Check for voltage between the EBTCM pins B and C.
Is the voltage within the range specified in the Value(s) column? Greater than 1 Volt Go to Step 14
Go to Step 6

6
1. Turn the ignition OFF.
2. Disconnect the MAGNASTEER actuator connector C107.
3. Measure the resistance between the MAGNASTEER actuator connector C107 pins A and B.
Is the resistance within the range specified in the Value(s) column? 2-3 Ohms Go to Step 7
Go to Step 15

7
Measure the resistance from the MAGNASTEER actuator pin A to the steering gear case.
Is the resistance within the range specified in the Value(s) column? OL (Infinite) Go to Step 8
Go to Step 15

8
Measure the resistance between J 39700 connector pin F and the MAGNASTEER harness side connector C107 pin B.
Is the resistance within the range specified in the Value(s) column? Less than 2 Ohms Go to Step 9
Go to Step 16

9
Measure the resistance between J 39700 connector pin C and the MAGNASTEER harness side connector C107 pin A.
Is the resistance within the range specified in the Value(s) column? Less than 2 Ohms Go to Step 10
Go to Step 17

10
1. Reconnect all the connectors.
2. Test drive the vehicle to a speed greater than 40 km/h (25 mph).
Does the DCT 41 reset? -- Go to Step 18
Go to Step 19

11 Repair a short to ground in CKT 345.
Is the repair complete? -- Go to Diagnostic System Check in ABS Brakes - Delco/Bosch --
12 Repair a short to ground in CKT 1787.
Is the repair complete? -- Go to Diagnostic System Check in ABS Brakes - Delco/Bosch --
13 Repair a short to voltage in CKT 345.
Is the repair complete? -- Go to Diagnostic System Check in ABS Brakes - Delco/Bosch --
14 Repair a short to voltage in CKT 1787.
Is the repair complete? -- Go to Diagnostic System Check in ABS Brakes - Delco/Bosch --
15 Replace the steering gear. Refer to Power Steering Gear in Power Steering System.
Is the repair complete? -- Go to Diagnostic System Check in ABS Brakes - Delco/Bosch --
16 Repair an open or a high in CKT 345.
Is the repair complete? -- Go to Diagnostic System Check in ABS Brakes - Delco/Bosch --
17 Repair an open or high resistance in CKT 1787.
Is the repair complete? -- Go to Diagnostic System Check in ABS Brakes - Delco/Bosch --
18 Replace the EBTCM. Refer to EBTCM in ABS Brakes - Delco/Bosch.
Is the repair complete? -- Go to Diagnostic System Check in ABS Brakes - Delco/Bosch --
19 Problem is intermittent. Refer to General Electrical Diagnosis Procedures in Wiring Systems.
-- -- --

Bill
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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The car did not show any codes when it was scanned both internally and externally.

It's going up on the lift again this Saturday. We have a friend coming up to the shop, that is a C5 expert. He should be able to find the problem.

I'll let him know some of the info I have recieved and we will take it from there.

I'll keep you all posted, once we identify the problem.

Thanks again!

Stay tuned.....

Last edited by Johnny Hardcore; Aug 9, 2007 at 11:59 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 02:10 AM
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what happened
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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To Power steering cuts out, WTF?

Old Oct 12, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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My steering was all jacked up when my EBCM module failed.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 09:49 PM
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Mechanic couldn't find the problem. I had a Corvette specialist take a look at it and he believes it's the rack. I garaged the car for the winter at my parents house in North Jersey. Won't have it looked at again/fixed until Spring.

They found that the wheel tightens up when banking turns and the rpms drop. If we stay thru the power band thru the turn, the steering is stable.

Basically, they had no idea what it is. Could be the sensor, could be the rack. Looks like it's going to a dealership when I take out next year.

I Just got a new condo right outiside of NYC, so the car expense is a big issue.

With my track record combined with my bad luck, it's going to be the rack. I promise to post the results once I have the car fixed.
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 03:06 PM
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Sorry to drag up a 12 year old thread, were you ever able to get the issue fixed?
My 2000 just started having the same problems and curious if you ever found a resolution
Thanks!
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