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Low Mile C5 Questions

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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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Default Low Mile C5 Questions

^^^^

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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 05:27 PM
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Before flying to get the car, I'd have the current owner run diagnostics and let you know what codes if any come up. If there are no codes, you should be fine.
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:01 PM
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I bought an '02 with 6700 on it last April and drove it home almost the same distance in 19 hours. The PO had just serviced it as well and the only issue I had was over-inflation of the tires his dealer had done. The DIC displayed a code and I set the correct pressure after pulling over.

The car drove perfectly all the way home.
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:20 PM
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I did the same thing. I checked fluids and tire pressures and drove it home without a problem. Would be a good idea to see if it has any codes before driving it
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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Personal note, I have a 2002 which sat in storage from 2002 to 2007, while I was deployed. Only problems I had when I took it out of storage is 4 flat tires, dead battery, and that dam 1214 code which is only a $158 fix. Otherwise no issues. First road trip was 1 day after the dealer did a full service on it, which cover NC to CT and back to NC all within 3 days.
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 07:44 AM
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Dryed out Transmission and Differential seals are the manin concern

Look on the floor where the car was garaged for spots ( heaven forbid ) and then look closely at the trans and diff bottoms for drip marks.

When you start the car up, let it idle for a while. This makes sure the oil has been ciruclating though the block

Old fuel in the lines, car may be sluggesh for a while, but that can be cleared out with fresh fuel and driving.

Nothing that can not be taken care of

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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Dryed out Transmission and Differential seals are the manin concern

Look on the floor where the car was garaged for spots ( heaven forbid ) and then look closely at the trans and diff bottoms for drip marks.

When you start the car up, let it idle for a while. This makes sure the oil has been ciruclating though the block

Old fuel in the lines, car may be sluggesh for a while, but that can be cleared out with fresh fuel and driving.

Nothing that can not be taken care of



Also with a car that is not driven for long periods of time the lube on the rear gears eventually slides off & the condensation forms on the gear surfaces causeing rust, should not be an issue. Every major driveline component will have condensation in it as well. When a vehicle is stored it needs to be started & run to normal temps once every month or two as well as the AC run to circulate the freon & oil. Car should be moved as well to turn bearing & gears. All told, you should be OK to drive it w/fresh fluids, etc.
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by TLewis4095
When a vehicle is stored it needs to be started & run to normal temps once every month or two as well as the AC run to circulate the freon & oil. Car should be moved as well to turn bearing & gears.
Changing the subject slightly - I'll be putting my Vette in storage over the winter for about 6-7 months. It will be in a large steel storgage shed (v-good condition and cement floors) with many other cars in storage. There will be no hydro in the shed and little or no winter access possible. The others remove their batteries and there are no mice problems.

What are your suggestions and is there any info available on winter storage. I expect to change my oil & filter just 1x yearly due to low miles driven. Should this be before or after storage?

What will need re-setting when I put the battery back in?
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Zozzie
Changing the subject slightly - I'll be putting my Vette in storage over the winter for about 6-7 months. It will be in a large steel storgage shed (v-good condition and cement floors) with many other cars in storage. There will be no hydro in the shed and little or no winter access possible. The others remove their batteries and there are no mice problems.

What are your suggestions and is there any info available on winter storage. I expect to change my oil & filter just 1x yearly due to low miles driven. Should this be before or after storage?

What will need re-setting when I put the battery back in?
Do the fluid changes first, before storage so the contaminants (some are corrosive & hard on exposed metal & seals) are out of the car. Make sure the car has been driven for 1/2 hour or so before the fluid changes so the wear particles, contaminants, moisture etc is all mixed well with the old oil/gear lube so it will exit with the old when drained, and not be settled on the bottom of the case to be picked up by the new fluid.

On resetting, your key-fob first, and then anything else w/voltaile memory such as seat/mirrors/ settings, clock/radio. Not much else.....should work fine.
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