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ARP includes a torque spec sheet with their bolts and studs. The required torque values are different depending on whether you use oil or moly lube. Either way, be sure to coat the threads and the underside of the bolt head or nut (if using studs).
I am doing my head and cam package right now but I sprang for the head studs instead of the bolts. They are a little more money but you never have to clean the bolt holes out(would with bolts if ever removed) and I do believe the studs hold better. Someone else with more knowledge on this can chime in!
123 I went with the ARP Head bolts as well on my H/C package, pretty much because they are reusable (vice the torque to yield factory bolts). Not sure what Howard did though for prepping them prior to installation
Clean the threads in the block real good, make absolutely sure the holes are dry right to the bottom. Before installing the heads, I would lube each bolt and screw it in and out of each hole by hand to make sure all the bolts run in nice and smooth. Clean any lube/oil that may have gotten onto the block where the gasket goes, then install the gaskets and heads. I think you will find that the stock bolts leave behind some red gunk that will make the bolts go in a little harder the first time. For stock bolts, this doesn't matter as the preload on the bolt is actually measured by rotation. For the ARP's, which use a torque value, friction will play an important role in obtaining the correct bolt stretch.