Cant get header bolt through
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 905
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
A buddy stripped the first few threads of the #7 header bolt on my C5 and I used a tap to fix the threads. It is very doable if you take your time and be careful. Use plenty of Tap Magic and make sure you're perpendicular to the head and parallel to the hole axis. I would definitely fix it before buttoning up - you need that bolt to prevent leaks.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
A tap will remove some of the aluminum. You should probably try to find the specific size thread chaser which will clean up the original threads w/o further metal removal. They look like a tap with cuts in the sides.
But, if the damage is already done, you might have to install a HELICOIL or similar metal coil thread repair insert.
SUMMIT RACING has several sets available, use keywords "thread chaser".
Here's a set of ARP thread chaser tools...
But, if the damage is already done, you might have to install a HELICOIL or similar metal coil thread repair insert.
SUMMIT RACING has several sets available, use keywords "thread chaser".
Here's a set of ARP thread chaser tools...
Clean those dirty threads.
These ARP thread cleaning chaser sets are designed to clean dirty holes. They include the correct thread pitch and diameter for the most commonly used threads, and their 3-flute design offers added strength.
These ARP thread cleaning chaser sets are designed to clean dirty holes. They include the correct thread pitch and diameter for the most commonly used threads, and their 3-flute design offers added strength.
Last edited by hotwheels57; Aug 14, 2007 at 07:54 PM.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 419
Likes: 14
From: round rock tx
I cross threaded that infamous hole on my stock heads. It almost went all the way in, then seized up and broke the bolt cap. I ran that way with no codes for about 2 months before doing HC. I did not notice any visible or audible exhaust leak. Saw a slight discloration on it after removing the stock heads.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Rome
A tap will remove some of the aluminum. You should probably try to find the specific size thread chaser which will clean up the original threads w/o further metal removal. They look like a tap with cuts in the sides.
But, if the damage is already done, you might have to install a HELICOIL or similar metal coil thread repair insert.
SUMMIT RACING has several sets available, use keywords "thread chaser".
Here's a set of ARP thread chaser tools...
But, if the damage is already done, you might have to install a HELICOIL or similar metal coil thread repair insert.
SUMMIT RACING has several sets available, use keywords "thread chaser".
Here's a set of ARP thread chaser tools...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 276
Likes: 4
From: San Jose CA
Thanks Guys.
I went ahead and tightened a stud, until it hit the crossed threads. I then tightened a bolt down to make sure that it is tight enough not to leak (I hope).
Once the car is running, I am going to take it to a shop, to have it tapped or rethreaded.
Everything underneeth is all buttoned up.
My next issue is having my power steering pump repaired. My budy chipped the pulley while removing the alternator. I tried to remove the pulley with a center hub puller, and the notch on the pulley just broke off (so cheap). Now I had a problem...How to get the pump out???
I had no choice but to break the pulley, so that I could get to the bolts behind the pulley.
Now I Tried to get a puller on the outside of the pulley with the pump out, and again the pulley broke. All that is left is the center hub of the pulley, is still in the pump. How do I get this out?
Thanks
Mike
I went ahead and tightened a stud, until it hit the crossed threads. I then tightened a bolt down to make sure that it is tight enough not to leak (I hope).
Once the car is running, I am going to take it to a shop, to have it tapped or rethreaded.
Everything underneeth is all buttoned up.
My next issue is having my power steering pump repaired. My budy chipped the pulley while removing the alternator. I tried to remove the pulley with a center hub puller, and the notch on the pulley just broke off (so cheap). Now I had a problem...How to get the pump out???
I had no choice but to break the pulley, so that I could get to the bolts behind the pulley.
Now I Tried to get a puller on the outside of the pulley with the pump out, and again the pulley broke. All that is left is the center hub of the pulley, is still in the pump. How do I get this out?
Thanks
Mike
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,794
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
I bought a 10mm x 1.5 four flute blind hole ( flat head tap) and a "tap socket" from snap-on. That let me use a small ratchet to turn the tap.
Using tap magic and turning slowly and by small increments ( in then out, then in etc)by hand to start with the tap, and finishing with the ratchet I was able to clean up the threads. I took it real slow and gentle. It took me about an hour to get it cleaned up.
When I was done it was the easiest hole to put a bolt in.
What I found was that I needed to start the bolt at the firewall first to get it properly started.
If I tried to start in the front, it always results with an angled entry on the bolt by the firewall.
Using tap magic and turning slowly and by small increments ( in then out, then in etc)by hand to start with the tap, and finishing with the ratchet I was able to clean up the threads. I took it real slow and gentle. It took me about an hour to get it cleaned up.
When I was done it was the easiest hole to put a bolt in.
What I found was that I needed to start the bolt at the firewall first to get it properly started.
If I tried to start in the front, it always results with an angled entry on the bolt by the firewall.
Last edited by rws.1; Aug 15, 2007 at 04:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 276
Likes: 4
From: San Jose CA
I bought a 10mm x 1.5 four flute blind hole ( flat head tap) and a "tap socket" from snap-on. That let me use a small ratchet to turn the tap.
Using tap magic and turning slowly and by small increments ( in then out, then in etc)by hand to start with the tap, and finishing with the ratchet I was able to clean up the threads. I took it real slow and gentle. It took me about an hour to get it cleaned up.
When I was done it was the easiest hole to put a bolt in.
What I found was that I needed to start the bolt at the firewall first to get it properly started.
If I tried to start in the front, it always results with an angled entry on the bolt by the firewall.
Using tap magic and turning slowly and by small increments ( in then out, then in etc)by hand to start with the tap, and finishing with the ratchet I was able to clean up the threads. I took it real slow and gentle. It took me about an hour to get it cleaned up.
When I was done it was the easiest hole to put a bolt in.
What I found was that I needed to start the bolt at the firewall first to get it properly started.
If I tried to start in the front, it always results with an angled entry on the bolt by the firewall.
Thanks. I will take a look.
