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Cant get header bolt through

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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 12:51 AM
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Default Cant get header bolt through

So I just removed my stock manifolds, and spent an unmeasureable amount of time trying to get my Driver's side Kooks header through.

Now that the header is in, I began threading my Stage 8 bolts by hand. All of them went in just fine except for the infamous back bolt (number 7 I think).

Here is my issue. I am thinking of just pushing through and saying that I am over it. I will not be removing the headers again until it is time to get AFR heads, so I am not sure if I am worried for no reason.

I have not bolted the headers up, yet and will wait to hear your responses.

If I should just push through and not worry about crossthreading the head, then I will finish the install tomorrow after work. Otherwise, please suggest an alternative.

Thanks
Mike
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 08:55 AM
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Loosen all the bolts to the point of all most completly out . Then take out the bolt that is the easiest for you to get to. Now try and start the bolt that your having problems with while wiggling the loose header just ever so slightly. If you get the problm bolt in and now you cant start the easy to get to bolt in, I would then remove the header and open up one or two of the bolt holes a tad. Dont force the bolts in . You dont want to cross thread. Hopes this helps. KEEP MODDING!!!!!
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 09:01 AM
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im sure it is, but make sure the gasket is on properly and that you have the right gasket. Also, check the bolt well to make sure the threads are perfect. You dont want to crossthread, that will make life suck. Also, use Anti-sieze on your bolts to
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
Loosen all the bolts to the point of all most completly out . Then take out the bolt that is the easiest for you to get to. Now try and start the bolt that your having problems with while wiggling the loose header just ever so slightly. If you get the problm bolt in and now you cant start the easy to get to bolt in, I would then remove the header and open up one or two of the bolt holes a tad. Dont force the bolts in . You dont want to cross thread. Hopes this helps. KEEP MODDING!!!!!


I feel for you, but if you force it you will need to repair it or have an exhaust leak! These aluminum heads are VERY easy to strip
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 01:16 PM
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please give me a call so I can help you out.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:28 PM
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Default Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I removed the header, and tried threading the bolt directly in the head (by hand), and got the same result. It seems like it is going up and to the right, and it is only going in about 3 or 4 threads.

I am using Anti-seize, and have tried several differnt bolts, all having the same result.

I am worried that it might already be stripped.

A friend offered to help me tap the head if it is stripped, but I think that it is going to be too difficult to get to.

What is the worst thing that will happen if I strip the head? Will I be pissed at my self. I am scared to do anything more without your advice.


If I had the money, I would just remove the heads right now, and go all the way (Heads & Cam), but I dont.

Thanks Guys
Mike
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:31 PM
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You should be able to tap the hole, even if you have stripped it. Let a shop take a look.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:51 PM
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Should I bolt everything up, except for that hole?

How bad will it leak?

How big of a deal would it be, for a shop to tap the head, while it is still in the car? It is so hard to get to...maybe because I am not a small guy by any means, but still.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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with the motor mounts off and everything taken off already for the header job. How much work would it be to replace the cam. Just wandering so that it is not a waist of time, if I have to remove the head. I hope that I dont have to, but I am considering the worst case.

Thanks
Mike
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 04:10 PM
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Are you able to get everything loose enough to get in there to the last hole and hand start a stud? That way maybe you could then slip the header onto the stud and use a nut on it and regular bolts on all the others.
Have you called George yet?
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 04:17 PM
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A friend told me that I could put washers on the bolt and thread it in until it stops. Sounded kind of pointless, but do you think that this will work?

Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Are you able to get everything loose enough to get in there to the last hole and hand start a stud? That way maybe you could then slip the header onto the stud and use a nut on it and regular bolts on all the others.
Have you called George yet?
I can get in there. I am going to call George as soon as I leave work.

Are you suggesting that I cut the head off of a bolt, and thread it into the Head, then find a nut that will fit? Has anyone done this? I will try it, if no one says that it is a bad idea.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 04:29 PM
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just in case....I have 241 complete heads for sale if you want, 250$
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 02gt350
just in case....I have 241 complete heads for sale if you want, 250$
Thanks, but I hope that I dont need new heads. I want AFRs, but not for a few more months.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 05:19 PM
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Going home to work on it. I will keep you posted on my results.

Thanks for the input.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by thesaad
A friend told me that I could put washers on the bolt and thread it in until it stops. Sounded kind of pointless, but do you think that this will work?



I can get in there. I am going to call George as soon as I leave work.

Are you suggesting that I cut the head off of a bolt, and thread it into the Head, then find a nut that will fit? Has anyone done this? I will try it, if no one says that it is a bad idea.
Not necessarily cutting a bolt, but rather just buying a short (metric) stud say, about say 2" long or so. I agree with the others here, you really don't want strip or further damage the hole as it will most likely leak.

BTW, keep in mind that George is on the east coast and I'm sure what time Kooks closes. I though it was nice of him to post up here and offer to help by phone.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Not necessarily cutting a bolt, but rather just buying a short (metric) stud say, about say 2" long or so. I agree with the others here, you really don't want strip or further damage the hole as it will most likely leak.

BTW, keep in mind that George is on the east coast and I'm sure what time Kooks closes. I though it was nice of him to post up here and offer to help by phone.
HAHAHA... I Should have thought about that first. I just called and could not get through. They close at 5PM. I will try the stud idea.

Thanks
Mike
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by thesaad
HAHAHA... I Should have thought about that first. I just called and could not get through. They close at 5PM. I will try the stud idea.

Thanks
Mike

Just remember, the important thing is to get it started BY HAND and make sure it's going in straight and not "cocked" or crooked.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Just remember, the important thing is to get it started BY HAND and make sure it's going in straight and not "cocked" or crooked.
Thats the problem. It is crooked. It is going up and to the right.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:47 PM
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start from the firewall and work forward. as long as the bolt is strait and bites the treads you should be fine or you could try using one of the stock bolts. thats how i had to do my lgs.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by thesaad
Thats the problem. It is crooked. It is going up and to the right.
Sounds like the outer threads have already started to cross thread. Only other suggestion would be to get a tap and slowly run it in the hole to clean up the threads. If you use a tap, try to get one made for blind holes. They are flat on the nose. If you can only get a pointed end type, just make sure and only run it in far enough to start "repairing" the threads and don't go in too far where it bottoms out in the hole.

Good luck.
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